All Motor Chat - High Gearing, Light weight, Revin to the moon-

[Germeezy3]

The Stage 3 Livernois heads flow very good, but it sucks that the stock 5.0 heads flow better than the Stage 3 Livernois heads. It also infuriates me that the 5.0 is so hard to fit into a street driven car without a lot of changes. Then another part of me is thinking along the lines of the 6.2 even with the standard 2V heads it has may indeed be the ticket for N/A due to its displacement without figuring out how to run the 5.0 4V heads.

 

[Matt D]

Actually that pulley is the wrong part number -_-

 

[Matt D]

Depends on the ring pack you have in the engine.


It works in drag race setups as well.


When the lift of the cam pushes the retainer down onto the guide boss. Then we get to playing with longer valves, taller springs, and reduced base circle cams.

Price on custom grinds is the same as shelf cams, kid.

Im half asleep -_- I was refering to jesel valve train + custom cams refering to Ron's build for some reason.

Miss read completely

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Yes the jesel valvetrain is up there...

I have thoughT about switching to 4 valve heads when swapping heads.

Question towards SD. When it comes to that big bore stroker block of yours, what head combo would you recommend if I went with a higher CR? Worked 3V or 4V? Am I gonna see significant gains for the money difference?

 

[Matt D]

im passin out, Night peeps

 

[US-1]

Personally....I like four valve heads. Just depends on which heads you use. The GT500/Ford GT heads are the best of the best. The 03/04 Cobra heads are next and are slightly better than the 3V heads if they're worked right.

For high rpm N/A use I wouldn't suggest using the stroker though. Rod/stroke ratio doesn't favor it. You'll make more power with the big bore and stock stroke & rod length. I also would not go to a 6" connecting rod with the stock stroke due to side loading the piston.

 

[Matt D]

Now I have to pull that weight reduction list I made back up and see what the hell im going to ditch or keep.

Im going to make a belly pan for the front, when I remove the stock fuel tank I want to make alum plates to cover that spot so the air passes through smoothly and maybe do something for the rear aswell.

 

[Mike K]

Wow I'm just sitting back and reading this in amazement on the knowledge in here. Way better than that supercharged chat

 

[US-1]

Wow I'm just sitting back and reading this in amazement on the knowledge in here. Way better than that supercharged chat

Most of these things will apply to supercharged/turbocharged engines as well. It is just race engine technology. No matter what type of induction system you have the needs are the same: get the engine to accelerate quicker. Whether you are doing it naturally aspirated, using a belt-driven tunnel ram, or with a hairdryer....or two.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Where is the line forming for the passing out of the numbers for the All Motor Crew? Do I fill out a credit app or something? Is stock block's invited to this party? Mines purdy and clean....lulz.....

 

[Matt D]

Hey Sd, who would you buy 9" end's from with bearings?

Dam drag brakes won't fit our 8.8's from strange. I figure on the smaller tire keeping my same rims I can shorten 1" without hitting anything (me removing that inner bracket that does nothing)

 

[US-1]

Strange or Moser.

 

[Matt D]

I was looking all over Stranges website coudln't find a part number but Strange is perfect. Going with their brake kit anyway so brakes, 9" ends and bearings all from one place.

Thanks.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

For high rpm N/A use I wouldn't suggest using the stroker though. Rod/stroke ratio doesn't favor it. You'll make more power with the big bore and stock stroke & rod length. I also would not go to a 6" connecting rod with the stock stroke due to side loading the piston.

SD, I road race my car where I consistently see high RPM use for 30 minute sessions - 4 sessions per day over a weekend - and heard the same concerns about going down the 5.0 stroker path on the 3V modular engine. I appreciate the knowledge and experience you share here (always learning something new) - do you have 3V aluminum big bore motor recommendation for road racing applications with a 11:1 CR? Mike

 

[US-1]

I was looking all over Stranges website coudln't find a part number but Strange is perfect. Going with their brake kit anyway so brakes, 9" ends and bearings all from one place.

Thanks.

Last I heard you have to call them. They do their catalogs in damn near two year increments and the website updates are even worse.

SD, I road race my car where I consistently see high RPM use for 30 minute sessions - 4 sessions per day over a weekend - and heard the same concerns about going down the 5.0 stroker path on the 3V modular engine. I appreciate the knowledge and experience you share here (always learning something new) - do you have 3V aluminum big bore motor recommendation for road racing applications with a 11:1 CR? Mike

Pretty much a stock stroke steel crank and stock rod length. I would, however, seriously consider using Carrillo rods. Pricey....but very proven in long-duration high rpm usage. I'm not overly sold on using a sleeved block for that either. I'm sure it would work fine but you'd need to weight the costs of doing something like the Darton "Wet-Sleeve" setup versus the FRPP aluminum big bore block.

Cams would be an interesting chore. Wouldn't need a ton of lift but the duration would need to be more than usual in order to scavenge the cylinders effectively at sustained rpms.

 

[DKS]

Wow I'm just sitting back and reading this in amazement on the knowledge in here. Way better than that supercharged chat

No shit, this is a great thread. Glad I stumbled on it.

Where is the line forming for the passing out of the numbers for the All Motor Crew? Do I fill out a credit app or something? Is stock block's invited to this party? Mines purdy and clean....lulz.....

Maybe we should start a "purdy and clean crew" lol

 

[psfracer]

I think I am.... Ive hit 7500 lol

My 572 sees 7500.........hahaha.

Yea I don't have many choices for more hp other then compression

Don't fear compression! Just run race gas!

4 Vane pump seems to be the most efficent and lightest they offer


[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-2]22642 [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-2]Enhanced Design 4-Vane Racing Vacuum Pump, -12AN Fitting, Hard Anodized Finish[/SIZE][/FONT]

Cog pulley for pump #6488

Thats is the pump I use, but I use the V-belt pulley.


I think a good place to look also are the Super Stockers. They really get the power to the ground, and from what I have seen, usually have the lowest ET vs the MPH they run.

Get the lightest engine components you can. I have also heard about certain cars running wild piston ring setups to reduce drag, and different clearances to reduce drag. Lighter weight, less drag, to get the engine to accelerate quicker.

 

[Matt D]

It's still a street car Paul lol but Im looking at the higher compression as my first choice. I only drive it once a week tops anyway. Im going to do the vacuum pump set up, I wonder where the best place to weld the an fitting on the modular valve cover would be ?

 

[Matt D]

Paul you wouldn't know how much the pump weighs do you ?

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Maybe we should start a "purdy and clean crew" lol

Might as well cause my pockets aren't NEAR deep enough to keep up with all this motor building.