FRPP 3V supercharger shortblock build

[Liftedbronco]

new question. im gonna do the clay...I realized i dont need to be that lazy. What distance is within spec? anyone know?

 

[19COBRA93]

The piston with the broken connecting rod had marks on top from 2 valves. Bummer. Valves looked ok. Im sure they arent though.

Replace all 3 valves. Mine did the exact same thing, and the piston was junk, as well as 2 out of 3 valves. I didn't trust the 3rd valve so I replaced it too.

 

[Liftedbronco]

well im gonna defer to sd (us-1) on it since hes rebuilding the heads for me. Although i can basically guarantee hes gonna agree with you.

 

[Liftedbronco]

Ok had another night in the lab. Really, is there anything you'd rather do then just be in the man cave with a beer and a pack of cigarettes? God its so great.

Anyway....got the arp head studs in - well, all but one. Seems I have to go in there and chase the threads on one cuz its just WAY tight. Do we know what thread the heads are? I wanna order the chase kit today and i have that info at home.

I also tried to put on my oil pan and that livernois scraper along with the canton oil pan studs. 2 problems....1. the timing cover has to be on to put on the oil pan and im not at that point yet. I test fit the 1 gasket and crank scraper and found yet another setback. The longer main studs that were for the windage tray stick up too far and hit the scraper. So even though i just talked myself out of arp mains...looks like im gonna have to get em afterall. That or just snip the ends off the mains that are in there. but that doesnt sound like the kind of quality work I intend to do.

Just a note on the canton oil pan studs - what a cool mod. Makes it alot easier to line up the scraper and 2 pan gaskets. Plus per ARP research studs yield better clamping force than bolts. And since im afraid 2 gaskets and a scraper are more likley to leak...id say those studs are a good choice if you're gonna run one of these livernois pieces.

 

[19COBRA93]

You'll want the timing cover in place, and the rear seal support plate in place as well before installing the oil pan. Also, use silicone at all four of those points between those points and the first oil pan gasket....Timing cover to block points, and rear plate to block points. If that makes sense.

 

[Liftedbronco]

word. That is covered in the service manual which i do have. I just wasnt thinking ahead and was excited to actually get something done on this motor.

so can you tell me the thread size on the head studs? I have to run a tap in there.

 

[Liftedbronco]

m11x1.5
thanks kevin.
you're welcome kevin.

 

[tmcolegr]

Just FYI - be very careful tapping the head bolt holes in the block. The threads are very deep in the block - all the way down to the main webs. That's one of the reasons our 3V blocks are so strong. If you break a tap off, there's no retrieving it. The block will be junk.

I tapped all the head bolt holes in my 3V block and my butt was puckered the whole time. Be sure to use tapping fluid for aluminum.

 

[2005mach1]

Some stuff I learned this week building a FRPP 3V short block

my buddy blow his motor - so he bought a short block (low compression S/C)
and a set of livernoise stage 2 heads.

what we found is
he needed a oil pump pickup tube and oring for pick up tube
also need a oil pan - check which pan - some have bung for sensor some don't
and a new oil dipstick with new tube.

he need this stuff because the old stuff get hurt when the rod let go

also the new 8 bolt flexplate - need the converter holes relocated for 5r55 converter

 

[blue streak]

i want a 9.8 alluminator so bad, and probably gonna need one soon... id buy 8 nozzles and get to tapping holes haha. 200 hit on that and a 150 on the kit already on it. im such a cheap ass. i bet i could afford a blower if i didnt spray my car for a few months lol. that 20lb bottle is expensive. and i have 3!

 

[Liftedbronco]

yea i wrecked my dipstick and pickup tube too. when i got my tss pump, it came with a new pickup and o rings. theyre a good shop for sure.

So nobody knows the proper distance for pickup to bottom of pan?

 

[Liftedbronco]

still dont have an answer for pickup distance....

but as an update, arp main studs are in and torqued. Used the ones listed for 03-04 no windage tray. they worked great.

just waiting on my shadowlands heads. then we can move forward. anyone care for pics?

 

[Anthony05GT]

Just FYI - be very careful tapping the head bolt holes in the block. The threads are very deep in the block - all the way down to the main webs. That's one of the reasons our 3V blocks are so strong. If you break a tap off, there's no retrieving it. The block will be junk.

I tapped all the head bolt holes in my 3V block and my butt was puckered the whole time. Be sure to use tapping fluid for aluminum.

Your butt was puckered anyway and you know it.

 

[Anthony05GT]

yea i wrecked my dipstick and pickup tube too. when i got my tss pump, it came with a new pickup and o rings. theyre a good shop for sure.

So nobody knows the proper distance for pickup to bottom of pan?

I asked the engine builder at JDM the same question over the phone about my stroker and he said .30'' from the pickup to the pan.

 

[Liftedbronco]

Awesome. Thank you!

 

[tigerhonaker]

So this is just ending right here with no further information

tigerhonaker

 

[1SickRedfire]

well im gonna defer to sd (us-1) on it since hes rebuilding the heads for me. Although i can basically guarantee hes gonna agree with you.

Tiger...read the quote, my guess is he's been waiting on SD like everybody else.

 

[tigerhonaker]

Tiger...read the quote, my guess is he's been waiting on SD like everybody else.

I was hoping the OP might Post what was the hold-up as this was sometime back and no further up-dates.
I did not want to assume anything.

tigerhonaker

 

[bullittrevor]

How well do the FRPP heads flow compared to livernois and bbr? Interested to see this build when its done!

 

[Liftedbronco]

whoa sorry, missed all these posts. Yes, hes still got my heads. But we've been talking back and fourth. No cause for alarm.

I dont have frpp heads so I cant tell you how they flow compared to anybody elses. I dont think im getting flow numbers either, so I dont think i can do anything but let dyno and ET numbers speak for themselves.

Once i finally get these heads back ill be regularly posting updates again.

PS. No longer doing comp blower cams. SD is working on some custom grinds.