1pc Driveshaft Questions????
- Thread starter Wicked GT
- Start date
nyuk98GT
Infrequent poster
Wicked_GT,
Hope the install is going well.
After you get finished up and the mandatory test drive completed, I've got some questions for you (please):
Any concerns about pinion angle?
Do you have an adjustable UCA installed? If not, are you planning on installing one?
Install on a lift or jackstands? Any major issues with removal of the stocker or installation of the new one?
I've had my eyes on a Dynotech d/s for a while and I'm interested in hearing about your experience with this piece.
Thanks.
Chris
Hope the install is going well.
After you get finished up and the mandatory test drive completed, I've got some questions for you (please):
Any concerns about pinion angle?
Do you have an adjustable UCA installed? If not, are you planning on installing one?
Install on a lift or jackstands? Any major issues with removal of the stocker or installation of the new one?
I've had my eyes on a Dynotech d/s for a while and I'm interested in hearing about your experience with this piece.
Thanks.
Chris
Chris, i installed my driveshaft on jack stands. The hardest part is removing the stock piece. Its a heavy bitch and because it flexes in the middle its a pain.
Put car on stands
Remove driveshaft to pinion bolts
Remove driveshaft to trans bolts.
Remove carrier bearing bolts.
Jack rear end up.
Slide the driveshaft out the rear of the car.
Slide new one in and lower rear end
Bolt everything back up.
I have an adj uca and did adjust the pinion angle. It really is a very easy install. Some people say its easier to drop the ota pipes out of the way. I found it easy with them in the car.
Put car on stands
Remove driveshaft to pinion bolts
Remove driveshaft to trans bolts.
Remove carrier bearing bolts.
Jack rear end up.
Slide the driveshaft out the rear of the car.
Slide new one in and lower rear end
Bolt everything back up.
I have an adj uca and did adjust the pinion angle. It really is a very easy install. Some people say its easier to drop the ota pipes out of the way. I found it easy with them in the car.
Haven't taken my "Test" drive yet as I am waiting for the paint to dry on my BFR Shifter bracket. Powder coating was shit so repainted it.
Drive Shaft Install: I did the install on jack stands in the garage with really no issues. I will say if you have a helper you can cut your time in half! You need the car in gear or the parking brake on so you can break the bolts free. You need the car out of gear or parking brake off so you can rotate the driveshaft to get at the next bolt... I spent more time climbing from under the car, engaging/disengaging the hand brake, and sliding back under the car than I did on the actual install. All in all, a very simple job that can be achieved with basic hand tools. Just make sure you have everything ready before you climb under the car... had to make a few trips to the tool box as I didn't plan it all the way through.
Removing the old drive shaft was easy, undo the bolts, raise the rear, and shoot it out the rear of the car. I had to get creative putting the new one in though... everyone states they bring the new one in from the rear? I could not get it past the factory exhaust and rear end to save my life so ended up putting a jack under the trans, removed the trans mount and bracket, and brought the driveshaft in from the front. Took a little cursing and wiggling but made it in with no issues.
***Personal Opinion Coming*** and I don't care if you agree with me or not, its my thread and don't care.
After getting it in, Here is my take on the driveshaft... get the DSS over the Dynotech. I am not speaking from a strength standpoint as I am sure both are plenty strong, I just don't like the way the Dynatech installs... they use allen head bolts for the rear pinion (4 of them) and two shear bolts which are also allen head bolts. The material around the u-joint is super beefy which is great but you can't get a straight shot at the bolts without a swivel. couldn't find my 3/8" swivel to save my life and the 1/2" one was too thick to be effective. Ended up using a 12" extension so I could get past the yoke and driveshaft which worked pretty well. I would feel safer with 6 bolts instead of 4 holding it in but many are running this driveshaft
with much more power than I have so in the end, I know it will be fine.
I will get it finished and tested in the morning and will post my thoughts on the first test drive.
Drive Shaft Install: I did the install on jack stands in the garage with really no issues. I will say if you have a helper you can cut your time in half! You need the car in gear or the parking brake on so you can break the bolts free. You need the car out of gear or parking brake off so you can rotate the driveshaft to get at the next bolt... I spent more time climbing from under the car, engaging/disengaging the hand brake, and sliding back under the car than I did on the actual install. All in all, a very simple job that can be achieved with basic hand tools. Just make sure you have everything ready before you climb under the car... had to make a few trips to the tool box as I didn't plan it all the way through.
Removing the old drive shaft was easy, undo the bolts, raise the rear, and shoot it out the rear of the car. I had to get creative putting the new one in though... everyone states they bring the new one in from the rear? I could not get it past the factory exhaust and rear end to save my life so ended up putting a jack under the trans, removed the trans mount and bracket, and brought the driveshaft in from the front. Took a little cursing and wiggling but made it in with no issues.
***Personal Opinion Coming*** and I don't care if you agree with me or not, its my thread and don't care.
After getting it in, Here is my take on the driveshaft... get the DSS over the Dynotech. I am not speaking from a strength standpoint as I am sure both are plenty strong, I just don't like the way the Dynatech installs... they use allen head bolts for the rear pinion (4 of them) and two shear bolts which are also allen head bolts. The material around the u-joint is super beefy which is great but you can't get a straight shot at the bolts without a swivel. couldn't find my 3/8" swivel to save my life and the 1/2" one was too thick to be effective. Ended up using a 12" extension so I could get past the yoke and driveshaft which worked pretty well. I would feel safer with 6 bolts instead of 4 holding it in but many are running this driveshaft
with much more power than I have so in the end, I know it will be fine.
I will get it finished and tested in the morning and will post my thoughts on the first test drive.
Wicked fwiw they all have allen head bolts. Glad you got it together brother.
Good to know, well then I recant my rant about the allen head bolts! Still wish all 6 went in to the flange instead of 4 with the two shear bolts but I will be N/A for awhile so don't have anything to worry about.
skwerl
tree hugger
There's only 4 bolts at the other end attaching it to the transmission output shaft.
nyuk98GT
Infrequent poster
jewc75 and Wicked_GT:
You guys are good eggs in my book.
Thank you both very much for the how-to steps and for the opinions about doing the swap with the car on jackstands. I am looking forward to getting this done (of course, I have to buy a driveshaft first, lol).
So, I don't have to redo my decision-making about Dynotech vs. DSS. Phew. But it looks like a UCA is pretty much a must-have regardless of manufacturer. I love my car but I miss the parts pricing of my '98 GT!
Thanks again for the help and we're all looking forward to the Dynotech install porn, Wicked_GT.
Chris
You guys are good eggs in my book.
Thank you both very much for the how-to steps and for the opinions about doing the swap with the car on jackstands. I am looking forward to getting this done (of course, I have to buy a driveshaft first, lol). So, I don't have to redo my decision-making about Dynotech vs. DSS. Phew. But it looks like a UCA is pretty much a must-have regardless of manufacturer. I love my car but I miss the parts pricing of my '98 GT!
Thanks again for the help and we're all looking forward to the Dynotech install porn, Wicked_GT.
Chris
Boaisy
Dark Knight
Yeah DSS is allen bolts, but it is 6 for their adapter and 6 more for screwing the driveshaft onto their adapter IIRC.
Boaisy you are correct.
The CV on the DSS is from a Porsche 939 half shaft. I used the six socket head bolts on the adapter, then tossed the other socket head bolts and split lock washers. I purchased Porsche 939 spreader plates, (like the OEM plates) then I used ARP 12 point bolts that are slightly longer than the bolts supplied to utilize all the thread area in the adapter. I used Vibra-Tite on all the bolts instead of the split washers supplied. I'm sure the supplied washers are fine, however you won't see ford using them on a DS. I have been running this combo for over 5,000 miles with no vibrations.
So finally got my test drive in and all in all it was uneventful... this is a good thing! Butt dyno says it rev's a little quicker and maintains speed better if you let off the throttle. Very very slight vibration from 60-90mph but not enough that anyone but me would notice. If I didn't daily drive the car I probably wouldn't have noticed the vibration at all. As a bonus my shift ball doesn't vibrate quite as badly and isn't quite as loud. New shift ball should be here tomorrow so will hopefully have no more "marbles" in my shift ball under acceleration.
nyuk98GT
Infrequent poster
Wicked_GT:
Thanks for the updates and the road test report. I noticed that you installed an UCA so are you thinking that the pinion angle needs tweaking to eliminate that tiny bit of vibration or is everything good-to-go?
I like that Blowfish bracket/driveshaft loop, too, and the fact that NVH is not an issue. Bracket is on my list but I'm waiting to see MGW's Gen3 shifter. Call me Mr. Indecisive, lol.
Thanks for the info - it's all appreciated.
Chris
Thanks for the updates and the road test report. I noticed that you installed an UCA so are you thinking that the pinion angle needs tweaking to eliminate that tiny bit of vibration or is everything good-to-go?
I like that Blowfish bracket/driveshaft loop, too, and the fact that NVH is not an issue. Bracket is on my list but I'm waiting to see MGW's Gen3 shifter. Call me Mr. Indecisive, lol.
Thanks for the info - it's all appreciated.
Chris
Wicked_GT:
Thanks for the updates and the road test report. I noticed that you installed an UCA so are you thinking that the pinion angle needs tweaking to eliminate that tiny bit of vibration or is everything good-to-go?
I like that Blowfish bracket/driveshaft loop, too, and the fact that NVH is not an issue. Bracket is on my list but I'm waiting to see MGW's Gen3 shifter. Call me Mr. Indecisive, lol.
Thanks for the info - it's all appreciated.
Chris
Chris, I try to do all my own work as I am cheap and don't mind busting knuckles, that being said I will be the first to admit that I don't know jack about setting a pinion angle. I bought non-adjustable LCA's to make sure my dimensions were correct with those and set the UCA/UCA Bracket up per Steeda's recommendation. Is it perfect, probably not... But I haven't had any issues or warnings telling me I need to address it.
I am not getting any drone out of the rear end, no clunking, and have no issues with traction when I get on it. One of these days I will actually jack the car up and try to figure it all out but right now it works fine and as I am not drag racing the car or road racing it, it works fine as a daily driver.
nyuk98GT
Infrequent poster
Wicked_GT:
Thanks mucho for the info about the UCA. I bet Steeda has some pretty decent instructions so when you do check pinion angle it is likely to be just right. I like your 'trust but verify' approach as well as the DIY philosophy.
Thank you for the helpful posts. I have a nice collection so when I get under the car things ought to go OK.
Chris
Thanks mucho for the info about the UCA. I bet Steeda has some pretty decent instructions so when you do check pinion angle it is likely to be just right. I like your 'trust but verify' approach as well as the DIY philosophy.
Thank you for the helpful posts. I have a nice collection so when I get under the car things ought to go OK.
Chris
Chris, glad I could be of some assistance. So since we are on the UCA/Bracket discussion and it is my thread I will derail it a bit for you....
I am running the Steeda relocation brackets as well as their lower control arms so I changed pretty much everything from stock. Steeda stated to measure the UCA to a certain length (which escapes me right now) but is clearly stated in their instructions. Once that is ready I was instructed to mount it to the bracket using the hole noted in the instructions. Here are the instructions for reference:
I am running the Steeda relocation brackets as well as their lower control arms so I changed pretty much everything from stock. Steeda stated to measure the UCA to a certain length (which escapes me right now) but is clearly stated in their instructions. Once that is ready I was instructed to mount it to the bracket using the hole noted in the instructions. Here are the instructions for reference:
UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
Has this mod blown up your car or voided your warranty yet???
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