2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[Back@itagain]

Rhetorical?

Pretty much...but at this point probably the best/easiest place to start.

 

[AutoXRacer]

They flow a significant amount of more air than the stock heads. They do come with stock springs though. It's around 20% more air. I have a set of almost new 2009 stock heads I'll trade you for, lol.

My heads are stock (valves)...but have cams and springs.

Is there a way to service the valve stem seals without R&Ring the heads?

 

[lito]

I dont recall if the last time you removed your plugs they had any oil in them.

If a guide issue and if you have a borescope that fits, you can remove the injectors and look thru it for closed intake valves and if some oil is pooling there.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I dont recall if the last time you removed your plugs they had any oil in them.

If a guide issue and if you have a borescope that fits, you can remove the injectors and look thru it for closed intake valves and if some oil is pooling there.

When TMS did the compression and leak down test, they said they found wet plugs.

When I did my own compression test, my plugs where not wet, but are black.
Black carbon; not the normal looking plugs.

 

[BruceH]

FRPP Stage 1 heads...pretty much stock heads.

My heads are stock (valves)...but have cams and springs.

Is there a way to service the valve stem seals without R&Ring the heads?

I'm not following. The FRPP stage 1 heads are cnc ported. They flow about 20% more than stock.

Here's the difference between stock and FRPP stage 1:

 

[AutoXRacer]

So FRPP has 3 options of heads for our 3Vs.

Option 1
M-6049-N3V and M-6050-N3V = direct replacement for 2008-2010 Mustangs with 12mm plugs.

Option 2
M-6049-N3VPA and M-6050-N3VPA = CNC ported:
-53cc combustion chamber (stock is 51cc)
-Intake runner vol 202cc (stock 174cc)
-Exhaust runner vol 73cc (stock 62cc)

Option 3
M-6049-463VP3 and M-6050-463VP3 = CNC ported:
-48cc combustion chamber
-Increased intake valve size 35mm (stock 34mm)
-Increased exhaust valve size 38.5mm (stock 37.5mm)
-Intake runner vol 214cc
-Exhaust runner vol 73cc


I have option 1...stock heads.

I guess maybe I shouldn't refer to them as stage 1 heads...?
Thats what they were referred to in earlier FRPP catalogs.

Sorry for the confusion...

 

[BruceH]

So FRPP has 3 options of heads for our 3Vs.

Option 1
M-6049-N3V and M-6050-N3V = direct replacement for 2008-2010 Mustangs with 12mm plugs.

Option 2
M-6049-N3VPA and M-6050-N3VPA = CNC ported:
-53cc combustion chamber (stock is 51cc)
-Intake runner vol 202cc (stock 174cc)
-Exhaust runner vol 73cc (stock 62cc)

Option 3
M-6049-463VP3 and M-6050-463VP3 = CNC ported:
-48cc combustion chamber
-Increased intake valve size 35mm (stock 34mm)
-Increased exhaust valve size 38.5mm (stock 37.5mm)
-Intake runner vol 214cc
-Exhaust runner vol 73cc


I have option 1...stock heads.

I guess maybe I shouldn't refer to them as stage 1 heads...?
Thats what they were referred to in earlier FRPP catalogs.

Sorry for the confusion...

Thanks for the education.

 

[AutoXRacer]

So what do you think Bruce... Will R&R the valve seals (upon confirmation that they are leaking) be doable without R&R the heads nor cam like in the Ford service manual?

Have you ever done anything like this? The good news is that I still have my old engine which I can practice on before doing the real thing. lol

 

[BruceH]

So what do you think Bruce... Will R&R the valve seals (upon confirmation that they are leaking) be doable without R&R the heads nor cam like in the Ford service manual?

Have you ever done anything like this? The good news is that I still have my old engine which I can practice on before doing the real thing. lol

Yes I have except all I changed were the springs and retainers. Once the springs are off then the seal is exposed. It's a cup shaped dohicky that pulls off fairly easy. It's the same as a spring change but there is one more thing coming off.

If you buy a valve spring compressor do yourself a favor and get the Freedom Racing version.

 

[JR POLO BOY]

Wow that s a lot of pics!

 

[AutoXRacer]

If you buy a valve spring compressor do yourself a favor and get the Freedom Racing version.

Yep, that's the one I was looking at this morning. lol

http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/3V-Valve-Spring-Compressor-303-1039-Alternative-ST-101.htm

 

[JoshK]

Can these threads be merged? I am following this but it is getting a little confusing going back and forth. Both threads seem to have come to a common ground, maybe just use one going forward?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Can these threads be merged? I am following this but it is getting a little confusing going back and forth. Both threads seem to have come to a common ground, maybe just use one going forward?

I was hoping with the other thread that other JDM 302E owners would chime in and share their experience. I guess no one owns these engines. sigh

 

[stang67]

Hey I have one

 

[AutoXRacer]

Hey I have one

Why haven't you posted!!??

Haha, so hows your experience been (motor-wise, not with JDM)? Have you had any oil issues with yours?

 

[AutoXRacer]

So, I may have found the source of my oil consumption issue!!!!!

First, let me specify that I do not have a PCV system. My valve covers are plumbed to two breather type catch cans. So I should not have any kind of oil coming into the intake system.

Also, looking at the spark plugs, they sure look a lot better than they did 5K miles ago; I currently have a little over 10K miles.

With that, lets start with Cylinder #5.
Here is the LH valve on Cylinder #5

RH Valve on Cylinder #5

What is that!!??? Looks like oil to me. No, I am pretty sure there should be no oil in there. Just to get any doubts out of the way, I did start the engine this morning, when it was cold from over night and let it run until the coolant temp reached 110 or so. Then I pulled the fuel pump fuse. But regardless, there shouldn't be oil in the valve ports right...?

Here is the spark plug, like I said they look a lot better than before. I am wondering if it has anything to do with the cylinder walls finally breaking in and seating the rings.

Piston #5

I did not take any pictures of Cylinder #6 and #7 valves as they were open and could not see any traces of oil. Piston #6 was also up, so not much to see.
But here is what the spark plug looks like at 10K miles:

Here is plug #6 at 4K miles

Piston #7

Spark Plug #7

Cylinder #8 valves
LH valve

RH valve

Piston #8

Spark Plug #8

So, not even sure its worth checking cylinders #1-4... Seems like a valve stem seals need to be R&Red.

Whats your take!!??

 

[AutoXRacer]

Just got done with cylinders 1 thru 4... sigh

Spark plug #1

Spark plug #2

Spark plug #3

Spark plug #4

Spark plugs 1 thru 4

Cylinder #1 valves

Piston #1

Cylinder #2

Piston #2

Cylinder #3 - valves open

Piston #3

Cylinder #4 - valves open

Piston #4 - TDC

So obviously its the heads...question is, will a valve guide/seal do the trick or is there more to this than just the seals?

 

[BruceH]

Gerald,

Please keep it to one thread.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Gerald,

Please keep it to one thread.

Will do, just wanted to update my build thread. I hate having other threads, but seems like the other gets more action than this one.

All technical discussions will be held on the other thread: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1913022#post1913022

 

[jcw427]

That is nasty man. Hopefully tear down can be avoided, but I think that will be what you end up doing.