3v NA Low twelves

[the sandman]

We had alot of big cars there because Martin had already closed for season. There was a beautiful copper colored 460+fairmont there with a guy maybe older than me.

 

[StockishS197]

I tried to shift at 6200 last two runs but unsure of where rpms dropped to. i was surprised to see such low rpm,s at line as I was in 4th for awhile. I've not practiced on street much but am sure car should run low 13,s with another driver. I did a 1.8 on last run and car bogged off line so I know I can improve on that. Not knowing what was going on leaving line was hurting and being reluctant to drop psi in slicks as car got squirrely on deceleration on second run still at 14psi. I was talking with a guy that thought I might have hit a spill or something so I did end at 12psi

Stock redline is 6250, so increasing up to 6500-6800, you might be able to cross the trap at the top of 3rd Vs shifting into 4th right over the line.

The stock 3v will hold power torque fairly well up to 6500 if the tune is dialed in, but more importantly you won’t fall below peak torque when up shifting. Seeing it first hand, those few hundred RPMs can make a fairly significant difference, especially if you can cross the line in the top of 3rd.

While going up to 6500+ is usually safe (and what the stock 2010 3v and Bullitts rev to), there’s always a risk of issues with 180k miles, so YMMV.

 

[MrBhp]

I suspect your tune is off. Who are you using?

 

[the sandman]

MrBHP, Tuner shows no tune but I loaded all the goodies and 94oct, except for headers. Im thinking Stockish may want to tune it as he is learning all the tricks now. I set limiter to 6800 so I could go to 6400 but figure I'll wait on fresh motor. Hopefully next spring if everything goes good. AFR was good at 12.7 so basically just timing and car ran good so probably not alot there

 

[StockishS197]

MrBHP, Tuner shows no tune but I loaded all the goodies and 94oct, except for headers. Im thinking Stockish may want to tune it as he is learning all the tricks now. I set limiter to 6800 so I could go to 6400 but figure I'll wait on fresh motor. Hopefully next spring if everything goes good. AFR was good at 12.7 so basically just timing and car ran good so probably not alot there

I would suggest Lito is probably the best $150-$200 that would make a world of difference if you are on the stock tune.

You will probably gain 30+ RWHP if you are running the stock tune.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

While going up to 6500+ is usually safe (and what the stock 2010 3v and Bullitts rev to), there’s always a risk of issues with 180k miles, so YMMV.

The stock valvetrain is the limiting factor on these engines, particularly the cam phasers as they don't like extended periods above 6500rpm. The valve springs are good for 6800. If you want to build your engine to rev to 7k+, ported heads and SPR cams with phaser lockouts are the way to go but kiss goodbye to your low rev torque.
The stock bottom end is good for 7500 as long as you stay NA.

 

[GriffX]

Nice info about VE tables

 

[the sandman]

Brother Kyle; Its $250 for na and bolt ons. Then any changes are additional $$.

 

[the sandman]

Well I've been thinking bout what I need to get gt to respectable numbers. Since I ran car it has been parked with cover. I did calculator to get numbers and it shows me at 275whp and I need over 100 more to be where I want. I don't see 100 more with pistons, ported heads, TB and tune. I want to stay NA but maybe e85.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Well I've been thinking bout what I need to get gt to respectable numbers. Since I ran car it has been parked with cover. I did calculator to get numbers and it shows me at 275whp and I need over 100 more to be where I want. I don't see 100 more with pistons, ported heads, TB and tune. I want to stay NA but maybe e85.

You'd previously quoted the following mods:

I currently have the big JLT cai, ported TB, cmcv delete, cams, BBK Long tubes, ORX pipe, 2.5" to borlas, Aluminum DS, MGK short shifter, 4.10,s, skinnies and 275x60x15 MT drag radials on sve drags stars.

I don't know which calculator you used to arrive at 275rwhp but given that your 1/4 mile trap speed only requires a driver mod to improve it, your calculated rwhp is artificially low. I'd expect you to have something like 330rwhp & 325rwtq with your current mods assuming the engine's healthy. Compression/leakdown tests would be a good idea to make an assessment given that it's done 180k miles.
Which cams do you have? Hot Rods? Detroit Rockers? Did you consider installing underdrive pulleys?
Don't forget the suspension mods that others have suggested.

 

[lindertw]

I ran a best of 12.095 @ 111.08, 1.576 60', 302rwhp/317rwtq, 3500 lbs (suspension, tire, minor weight reduction, well prepped track, favorable air, etc). Details on setup (here) and (here)

I'm convinced a better driver would have had it in the 11.9x range. I shift so slowly...

 

[the sandman]

Brother Dino, Cams were done by previous owner. As im the eighth owner person I bought car from didn't know either. Car has had a ruff life. From Texas and was totaled out in 2011 for hail damage. Im sure car was raced quite a bit cause it had a 2 step and battery relocation to trunk along with cams and cold air. I need alot more than the 10hp underdrive pullies would provide. Looking at your times and hp gives me hope. Lindertw that 3500lbs is with you as raced? I was about 3620 with me as raced. My car seems heavy. I would say your 302hp is very stingy. Certainly not a dynojet. I did math and I need to be at 113mph trap with current setup to be 6000rpm. I do have 4.56,s setting in a box. Also looking into clutch tamer,s. I do need a line lock also.

 

[the sandman]

Ok lindertw, now I know where I saw ya. You run the 3v all motor thread? I checked out your setup. Car really does well.

 

[StockishS197]

Brother Dino, Cams were done by previous owner. As im the eighth owner person I bought car from didn't know either. Car has had a ruff life. From Texas and was totaled out in 2011 for hail damage. Im sure car was raced quite a bit cause it had a 2 step and battery relocation to trunk along with cams and cold air. I need alot more than the 10hp underdrive pullies would provide. Looking at your times and hp gives me hope. Lindertw that 3500lbs is with you as raced? I was about 3620 with me as raced. My car seems heavy. I would say your 302hp is very stingy. Certainly not a dynojet. I did math and I need to be at 113mph trap with current setup to be 6000rpm. I do have 4.56,s setting in a box. Also looking into clutch tamer,s. I do need a line lock also.

I think a retune would do your car good. If you have cams, bolt ons etc and aren’t sure if the car is tuned, I would start there. Probably worth also pulling a valve cover to see if you can identify which cams you have, as the tuner will ask too.

A good tune can make a significant difference, even if you have a tune from a reputable vender. Well worth the $250 Lito quoted you imo.

3600 lbs is about what I would expect for car + driver without weight reduction. 07+ cars are heavier than 05-06 due to the strengthened chassis.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

3600 lbs is about what I would expect for car + driver without weight reduction. 07+ cars are heavier than 05-06 due to the strengthened chassis.

The curb weight didn't change for 07-09 cars and the chassis was unchanged. The front a-arm brace that was added later barely weighs 1lb.
The quoted curb weights for an 05-09 GT coupe are 3483lb (Deluxe model) and 3510lb (Premium model) with a full tank of gas. The Shaker 1000 with trunk mounted subwoofer adds further weight.
Therefore with a 170lb driver like me, the "race weight" will be roughly 3650-3680lb. However if you run with only a 1/4 tank of gas and remove the rear seats, front passenger seat, spare wheel, and trunk contents, you could get down to ~3500lb.

 

[the sandman]

I did some math and it looks like i will need the 4.56,s. I might try to set up a rear diff with c clip eliminator and welded tubes and good posi trac unit then just switch them out. I also got a line lock. It looks like it will be easy to install at block under air filter

 

[Steve1161]

Don't fear the Gears as they are your friend when optimizing ET. Concentrate on the 60' and the 330' to the 1/8th , the rest will come around.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I did some math and it looks like i will need the 4.56,s. I might try to set up a rear diff with c clip eliminator and welded tubes and good posi trac unit then just switch them out. I also got a line lock. It looks like it will be easy to install at block under air filter

I have been very happy with the “Strange” axles and C clip eliminators I installed. You can order them assembled from strange ready to install in your modified housing. Weld the tubes and inspect the bracket welds to the housing also.