Best wax for a black car. 2006 GT

[28ONE]

Hey, I got my M90 installed and it's time to start working on those nasty paint chips!

I was wondering if it'd be okay to do the paint chips first, then do the compound, polish and sealant later? I'm a little broke lol after this build and still have to buy a lawn mower and weed-eater for my new house =X

I did find a friend at work that has a buffer I can use and I'd just need to get my own pads. Actually he has two... which one should I use? One rotates full time clockwise, the other keeps switching directions, don't remember what he called it but it rotates right then left then right then left really fast. Supposed to help prevent swirls or something. Curious which one I should borrow in your opinions?


And for the final decision on the touch up paint... the touch up paint I can get from ford, can I actually go to my local ford dealership and pick it up you mean? Also, is it as easy to use as the drcolorchip - by that I mean dab, smear, and wipe off after a couple minutes and it will fill in the same like in the drcolochip video and not look out of place? I just really don't want it to look out of place like the touch up already on it.

Also how would I get the current touch up paint off to re do it since it looks so bad?
Thanks again =)

I would compound/polish first then do all the touchups. In fact, compounding/polishing may level out and remove the old shit on your paint now. You truly won't know till you try. With Dr Colorchip, whenever I polished the touchup paint came out - thats why I switched to Ford touchup.

The one that rotates fully clockwise is a Rotary - Danger Will Robinson - if you have no experience with a rotary. If you can, get the exact name for the other one - it may be called a dual action polisher: Porter Cable, Griots Garage 6, Meguiar's DA, Harbor Freight DA etc...we can help better determine what you may need.

There is no dab and smear with the Ford Motorcraft touch-up paint. I've found using a toothpick was the best method to apply touchup onto the chip, not the brush. It's a tedious process but I feel you'll get better results. The dealership should have it in stock.

If the old touch can't be removed, sanding may be required - once again caution...

 

[Pentalab]

I have had good success with this stuff.

Agreed. The black detailer, made by turtle wax, is for black cars only. It has dye in it. You don't want to get it on ur clothes. I apply it with a cloth.... then buff it with a big microfiber towel. Works superb, gloss mirror like finish. All the stretched black limo's in town all use it too.

It's a bitch trying to keep black cars pristine though..esp this time of the year. We get green pollen falling from pine trees. Add a tiny bit of rain, and u end up with a helluva mess.

Black cars are... " a job"

Plan B.... at least keep any chrome wheels looking good. Even if the rest of the car doesn't look too good. From 20-50', that what folks will notice anyway, the chrome rims.

"you can have any color you want...as long as it's black"

 

[justinsstang]

I would compound/polish first then do all the touchups. In fact, compounding/polishing may level out and remove the old shit on your paint now. You truly won't know till you try. With Dr Colorchip, whenever I polished the touchup paint came out - thats why I switched to Ford touchup.

The one that rotates fully clockwise is a Rotary - Danger Will Robinson - if you have no experience with a rotary. If you can, get the exact name for the other one - it may be called a dual action polisher: Porter Cable, Griots Garage 6, Meguiar's DA, Harbor Freight DA etc...we can help better determine what you may need.

There is no dab and smear with the Ford Motorcraft touch-up paint. I've found using a toothpick was the best method to apply touchup onto the chip, not the brush. It's a tedious process but I feel you'll get better results. The dealership should have it in stock.

If the old touch can't be removed, sanding may be required - once again caution...

Both are Harbor Freight from what I remember.
And the problem with me using the ford touch up then is I don't want the bubbling out look at all. I hate how the stuff on it now looks, it's not even with the rest of the paint at all and you can really tell it's touched up.

What if I compound it (compound makes it look all matte and dull right), polish it (shines it back up to look like normal glossy paint again), and then touchup with drcolorchip, then sealant? Would the drcolorchip last a long time? I just want the touchup to look flat and even as possible and I don't think I could ever get close to that look with a brush or q-tip

 

[28ONE]

Both are Harbor Freight from what I remember.
And the problem with me using the ford touch up then is I don't want the bubbling out look at all. I hate how the stuff on it now looks, it's not even with the rest of the paint at all and you can really tell it's touched up.

What if I compound it (compound makes it look all matte and dull right), polish it (shines it back up to look like normal glossy paint again), and then touchup with drcolorchip, then sealant? Would the drcolorchip last a long time? I just want the touchup to look flat and even as possible and I don't think I could ever get close to that look with a brush or q-tip

Compounding will level the area you are working on, think of it as sanding, and it's not going to leave it all dull. I've never had any good luck with Dr Colorchip so take it for what it is. 00blkvert posted a link to a great video - post #22 - that is the way you can level them out...

 

[00blkvert]

Both are Harbor Freight from what I remember.
And the problem with me using the ford touch up then is I don't want the bubbling out look at all. I hate how the stuff on it now looks, it's not even with the rest of the paint at all and you can really tell it's touched up.

What if I compound it (compound makes it look all matte and dull right), polish it (shines it back up to look like normal glossy paint again), and then touchup with drcolorchip, then sealant? Would the drcolorchip last a long time? I just want the touchup to look flat and even as possible and I don't think I could ever get close to that look with a brush or q-tip

If you really want to remove old touch up your going to have to wet sand and I would be extremely car along with having the proper technique and products to correct that deep of scratches. I have a few spots from PO that filled it that I'm going to wets and and compounding out this winter.

If you compound it won't dull it at all It just cuts deeper then a polish. The only thing it will do is leave a haze kind of like a hologram look. Then polish with remove the holograms. Depending on polish you use you may need a finishing polish since your car is black.

I would fill your chips first let it sit a few weeks then correct the paint since you will possibly wet sand around it. DR color chip holds up. It's not a amazing product but it works. The chip will be the same color but not necessarily filled. If you want to fill It like 28ONE said I posted it in post 22 that is your best bet. Don't use a brush or q tip. Use a tooth pick also like 28ONE said. You will have more control of the paint.

 

[justinsstang]

Okay I just watched the video, and with as many chips as I have (you saw the pics right) it would take a LONG time to do it with that method. I'm going to order the drcolorchip right now I think and hope for the best. I just don't want it to look this bad, and I know it would take me days and days to get it done the other way with how many there are.

 

[justinsstang]

Ok yep I just ordered it. Got the biggest size available for the $72 after shipping. I'll post after pics once I get delivered and get to apply it. Wish me luck guys!