Bolt Ons

[3v_eric]

I have an 05 GT. Im looking to get a little more power out of it without forced induction. I know all the bolt ons I can do but what are the ones that are actually worth doing? My current mods are an SVE Axle-Back, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, JLT 110MM CAI, and a 91 Tune. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I've done the ones that are worth doing:

Parts

 

[ghunt81]

Well, a lot of them aren't really "worth doing" from a cost-to-benefit ratio. I notice you're in California- doesn't that rule out a lot of mods for you?

You already have a tune, which is one of the best mods you can do. Outside of that, about the best things you can do are long tube headers, cams, and charge motion deletes. Those together are worth 40ish hp, but you're also looking at around $1000 or more in parts.

The FRPP manifold is, in my opinion, not worth what it costs. Most of the gains from it are from deleting the charge motion plates, and it moves the power up the RPM band (5000 RPM and up)

Oh yeah, get an oil separator on there. There's a ton of oil vapor that goes through the intake and it can gunk up the throttle blade.

 

[3v_eric]

Thank you for your reply. Yes, being in Commnifornia rules out a lot of mods. Long tubes, cams are both not smog legal. I could get a set of charge motion delete plates though. Would it be worth it at all to get some shorty headers? They're on marketplace all the time in my area for around $300 listed.

Well, a lot of them aren't really "worth doing" from a cost-to-benefit ratio. I notice you're in California- doesn't that rule out a lot of mods for you?

You already have a tune, which is one of the best mods you can do. Outside of that, about the best things you can do are long tube headers, cams, and charge motion deletes. Those together are worth 40ish hp, but you're also looking at around $1000 or more in parts.

The FRPP manifold is, in my opinion, not worth what it costs. Most of the gains from it are from deleting the charge motion plates, and it moves the power up the RPM band (5000 RPM and up)

Oh yeah, get an oil separator on there. There's a ton of oil vapor that goes through the intake and it can gunk up the throttle blade.

 

[3v_eric]

I've done the ones that are worth doing:

Parts

Thank you. This website is actually insanely helpful.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Would it be worth it at all to get some shorty headers? They're on marketplace all the time in my area for around $300 listed.

Only if you get the JBA shorty knockoffs and install them yourself. Those headers are 304 stainless steel and of better quality than the 409 SS genuine JBA versions. You'll almost certainly need to shim the driver's side engine mount to clear the steering shaft, and you might also need to shim the passenger side to clear the frame rail. I'd also recommend using the OEM.manifold gaskets. It'll be worth it though 'cause the increase in low/midrange torque is noticeable.

Outside of that, about the best things you can do are long tube headers, cams, and charge motion deletes. Those together are worth 40ish hp, but you're also looking at around $1000 or more in parts.

The FRPP manifold is, in my opinion, not worth what it costs. Most of the gains from it are from deleting the charge motion plates, and it moves the power up the RPM band (5000 RPM and up)

Oh yeah, get an oil separator on there. There's a ton of oil vapor that goes through the intake and it can gunk up the throttle blade.

Even the cheapest long tube headers with catted midpipe will cost over $1000 plus installation. NSR cams with phaser bolts & wedge tool another $1000 plus installation. After doing cams you'll also want to swap in higher ratio axle gears to compensate for the sub-5000rpm torque loss. That's another $300 plus installation.
Totally agree that the $1400 cost of an FRPP intake manifold and 62mm TB isn't worth it, and a driver's side oil catch can is highly recommended!

 

[whitmanink]

im my opinion the only mods that should be done for cost saving is 3.73 or better 4.10 gears , with a jlt cai, lito tune , cmdp (homemade if can )..
anything else is costing quite a bit for little gain,,

the gears are where its at tho because it will put you in a higher rpm range so you will be more in the |"powerband " more ..

 

[JC SSP]

Looks like you have a good start on the mods.

An engine is an "air pump" the more air in and the more air out faster it will generate more power but being from Cali you will have some restrictions.

Consider rear gears, they will wake the car up!

 

[Forty61]

I'll vote for gears also.. you've got the good basic upgrades but next most noticeable bang for the buck would be a set of gears. I did 3.73s but a lot of others have done 4.10s, either would be a big upgrade to the butt dyno over the stock 3.55s.

 

[3v_eric]

Thank you for your guys responses. I will take them into consideration on what to do next.

 

[AHaze]

Doesn't Cali require the tune file to be CARB certified as well?
That means custom tunes are out so your only upgrade path is a parts package that includes a tune. I'm sure those exist, just don't know where to get them.

 

[3v_eric]

Doesn't Cali require the tune file to be CARB certified as well?
That means custom tunes are out so your only upgrade path is a parts package that includes a tune. I'm sure those exist, just don't know where to get them.

Mmm. Maybe they do but there is no way to verify that. U can get ur car dyno tuned and a cop couldnt tell on the side of the road. It may come up on the smog check though but im not sure. I got my tune from brenspeed when i my cold air intake. So when i smog it, I will put the stock intake on and stock tune.

 

[3v_eric]

Mmm. Maybe they do but there is no way to verify that. U can get ur car dyno tuned and a cop couldnt tell on the side of the road. It may come up on the smog check though but im not sure. I got my tune from brenspeed when i my cold air intake. So when i smog it, I will put the stock intake on and stock tune.

Mmm. Maybe they do but there is no way to verify that. U can get ur car dyno tuned and a cop couldnt tell on the side of the road. It may come up on the smog check though but im not sure. I got my tune from brenspeed when i my cold air intake. So when i smog it, I will put the stock intake on and stock tune.

 

[3v_eric]

I want to get an catless x pipe too but im gonna need to probably get an x pipe then gut the cats because a cop here impound and state ref my car if he pulls me over and sees no cats. So atleast if i gut them, it would still appear as if they were intact on the side of the road.

 

[Miker]

Ca now only visually verifies that your car complies. They look for cats and any changes in intake and emission systems. Anything different ie CAI or shorty headers need a carb sticker present. They will fail you for a catch can. They do not do a sniffer test any more. The biggest part of the test is done through the OBD port. They plug in and verify that the car has the original tune, no mods are allowed. They do not check to see if a tune was present before the test , only what the computer shows when tested. So just revert to the stock tune before the check. So if your car would run and not throw a code with aftermarket cams on a stock tune you could get away with them.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Some of the bolt on mods are at their best when combined with others and do little or nothing on their own. Without cams and long tubes there is not much gain in a charge motion plate delete. Going to a larger throttle body will gain nothing on its own. Simply removing the cats will not produce more power and you will have to put them back on for emissions testing. I have read of cars failing emission test because of a catch can. I would find out what CARB will tolerate before spending money on parts.

 

[ghunt81]

Even the cheapest long tube headers with catted midpipe will cost over $1000 plus installation. NSR cams with phaser bolts & wedge tool another $1000 plus installation. After doing cams you'll also want to swap in higher ratio axle gears to compensate for the sub-5000rpm torque loss. That's another $300 plus installation.
Totally agree that the $1400 cost of an FRPP intake manifold and 62mm TB isn't worth it, and a driver's side oil catch can is highly recommended!

Maybe it's been too long since I did all my stuff. My headers were $550 and I found a great deal on a used catted shorty H pipe, I think it was $200 or maybe less, and I installed them myself, but nowadays with a catted midpipe most stuff out there will probably run you over a thousand. I also got my cams for $630, but that was 7 years ago. Did all the installation myself. I disagree on the gears, though- my car has 3.55's and and with a 5 speed I've never felt like I needed more gear.

Without cams and long tubes there is not much gain in a charge motion plate delete.

FWIW I did charge motion deletes before those because they were causing my car to have this terrible bucking in first gear on cold starts, don't know why.

 

[3v_eric]

Ca now only visually verifies that your car complies. They look for cats and any changes in intake and emission systems. Anything different ie CAI or shorty headers need a carb sticker present. They will fail you for a catch can. They do not do a sniffer test any more. The biggest part of the test is done through the OBD port. They plug in and verify that the car has the original tune, no mods are allowed. They do not check to see if a tune was present before the test , only what the computer shows when tested. So just revert to the stock tune before the check. So if your car would run and not throw a code with aftermarket cams on a stock tune you could get away with them.

Really? Wow I didnt know that. I really want some aftermarket camshafts. The sound and adds some power with staying N/A. I daily drive this car so I'm against forced induction at this time.

 

[ponys197]

If you car is an auto a better torque converter will provide the best bang for the buck. When I did mine , I picked up half a second at the drag strip.

 

[AHaze]

Really? Wow I didnt know that. I really want some aftermarket camshafts. The sound and adds some power with staying N/A. I daily drive this car so I'm against forced induction at this time.

A stock motor with a supercharger makes a way better daily than a cammed NA motor with an obnoxious exhaust and 4.30 gears. IMHO, YMMV and all that.
Plenty of "everything in one box" CARB approved blower kits available that will save you a bunch of hassle too.