Chasing Superchager Belt Issues/Engine Knock/Clutch problems

[GT500KR]

Replaced cam sensor seemed alot better.
So I did a pull on it hard. Ran great! Then bang!!!

WTF

LONG STORY SHORT
My neighbor came and got me
Put the stock pulley back on and luckily a spare Fucking belt I happened to ordered.
Got her home and then the cam went to shit again
Fucking sick of this fuck.
Tossing the VVT in when I wake up. Been up for 27 hours now

 

[crownaviation]

Awe shit... loved that pulley. That could have been ugly as in not good for that new hood of yours...

 

[AutoXRacer]

How many miles before a tune is safe to be done??

What does this mean???

Shouldn't you have a tune before you start her up for the first time?

It is my understanding you can tune her up minutes after first start up.
Thats what I am planning on mine:
-First start up; approx 25 mins run time (one fan ON cycle).
-Shut it down, drain oil and change filter.
-New oil, new filter, strap her down on the dyno, break her in, and finish off with a complete tune all on the same day.

Why would you have to wait?

 

[GT500KR]

it already has a tune from the the prior engine. i keep my foot out of it so i dont hit more boost than what the prior tune was for.
she runs great and has plenty of fuel and not detonation. plus i have to drive it to figure this cam issue before it goes to dyno. you dont wanna take a car with f'd up problems to the dyno...

damn crown... i didnt even think to look at the hood :/

 

[GT500KR]

Awe shit... loved that pulley. That could have been ugly as in not good for that new hood of yours...

going back to drawing board on the pulley... 2.0 will be way beefier

 

[Department Of Boost]

going back to drawing board on the pulley... 2.0 will be way beefier

If you put an electric water pump on you don't need a pulley at all.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Shouldn't you have a tune before you start her up for the first time?

How are you supposed to tune it if you haven't started it up? Chicken/egg.

 

[Department Of Boost]

well, the way I break in is a couple heat cycles then change oil. then a couple wot pulls to 4k under load in 3rd gear then increase the wot pulls in 1000 rpm increments all under load. after I reach target rpm then i hard decel immediately after each wot pull

I'm not saying this is wrong^^^^^^

For the past 20yrs I have been breaking in stock/new car/truck motors, car race motors, motorcycle new/race motors, snowmobile new/race motors, etc, etc. You get the point.

10 heat cycles, this can be 10 at idle or 10 with very light load. Then rage on it. I've never had one motor that ate oil.

I used to do warranty Ducati motors that were eating oil by draining the "good" oil, putting $.49 crap oil in, run the guts out of it on the dyno, put the good oil back in. Rings seated every time. Ducati loved me for it.

 

[crownaviation]

I'm not saying this is wrong^^^^^^

For the past 20yrs I have been breaking in stock/new car/truck motors, car race motors, motorcycle new/race motors, snowmobile new/race motors, etc, etc. You get the point.

10 heat cycles, this can be 10 at idle or 10 with very light load. Then rage on it. I've never had one motor that ate oil.

I used to do warranty Ducati motors that were eating oil by draining the "good" oil, putting $.49 crap oil in, run the guts out of it on the dyno, put the good oil back in. Rings seated every time. Ducati loved me for it.

Thats cause those lousy motors are shipped from China with fish oil in them BAHAHAHHAH

 

[Department Of Boost]

Thats cause those lousy motors are shipped from China with fish oil in them BAHAHAHHAH

Close, Italy. Those idiots could mess up a wet dream.

They were shipped new with 10w40 full synthetic. If the customer followed the recommended break in procedure the rings wouldn't seat. And the Ducati dorks just LOVE following "procedures".

We would pull brand new 999R's and 749R's out of the crate, idle them up to 220deg 10 times, track prep them then take them straight to the track without ever turning a wheel on the street. They ran great, every time. We did that with at least 50 bikes.

 

[eighty6gt]

Ever try idling them up to temp only 5 times before hitting the track to see if they'd blow up? 11 times?

 

[Department Of Boost]

Ever try idling them up to temp only 5 times before hitting the track to see if they'd blow up? 11 times?

Nope, only 10.

 

[GT500KR]

Put new VVT solenoid and cam sensor and still knocking after the car warms up and is put under load.... wtf
Any other ideas!?

 

[GT500KR]

So I found this

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/200...nocking-noises-from-ford-4-6l5-4l-3v-engines/

from what I can tell I should replace the phaser?

 

[GT500KR]

This is what it sounds like Watch "Ford Modular 3V Cam Phaser Noise Fixed w/ Liverno…" on YouTube
Ford Modular 3V Cam Phaser Noise Fixed w/ Liverno…: http://youtu.be/liqWdZ9qgOQ

 

[GT500KR]

This too. So guess phaser time?
Watch "mustang gt 4.6 ticking/knocking sound" on YouTube
mustang gt 4.6 ticking/knocking sound: http://youtu.be/xH2DyOlGQzE

 

[GT500KR]

hello??

 

[skwerl]

Have you changed the phaser yet?

 

[crownaviation]

sorry, just read that. I assumed you had new phasers... even then does not mean one can't be bad right out of the box and have actually seen that once and it was a major pisser... Yes, listening to the video now and would bet you your left nut that your phaser is fucked. Now, why is the better question. I also assume you just did the soleniods and not the entire housing on the VVT. Those housings also have a screen built in that CAN NOT be cleaned/replaced. When the VVT solenoid is actuated they are controlling 4 oil cavities in the hosing that is adjusting what the phaser is getting for oil thus controlling the phaser. What is akward is when a phaser fails (like a spring) then they just lock in the advanced position and do not heal themselves. There could be a problem with the plunger inside the phaser also.. which replacing it with OEM genuine ford replacement will also cure.

Would be easy to replace the phaser or lock it out.

When I build a new motor I just replace all the valve train components as they are relatively cheap as far a build goes.. then I know everything is good.

I would just buy my cams and lock that shit out lol..

Make you good deal on these sticks!

 

[Department Of Boost]

I went locked, then to 20deg limiters. Next time I'm in there I'm locking them out again.