Clutch problems

[tbrock]

Are all 3 of you using the Mcleod clutch?

I am using an RST with kevlar disc. Had the same issue with a standard RST? I'll address my issue as needed down the road and I will not be replacing it with another McLeod product.

 

[tbrock]

Did any of you guys running an RST or RXT in a TR3650 have to put a shim behind the CSC (slave) to get it to function properly? I have a .150 shim that I bought but when we did the measurements (Ram instructions) everything came out to specs so we did not use the shim. I can walk out to the car in the morning and push the clutch in and the car will try to roll forward when I start it because the stupid thing won't release! I hate this clutch! We did a new slave and I crawled under the car the other day and checked to make sure it isn't leaking and it isn't. I heard Ram is shipping a shim with all of their Twin Disc and Centerforce is shipping a shim with all of their clutch systems?

I finally landed a job on Friday so it looks like I will be able to hold onto the car but I certainly don't want to spend another summer and a wad of cash fixing this stupid clutch. Cheapest fix is to put the shim in but that isn't a sure thing. Second option is to go to a Spec2+/3+ or Mach 600 and be done with it. My previous spec 2+ was a little noisy but it held and I never had to hunt for reverse and it always released properly! 2000 mile on the thing to boot! What a POS!

 

[JeremyH]

My rst with the 3650 operated flawlessy with a stock slave no shim. It did take around 1000 miles to break in and for the pedal and disengagement point to settle out.

 

[AutoXRacer]

No shim here either with the RXT... Its performing flawlessly...

 

[tbrock]

Autxracer and Jeremy,

Thanks for the feedback. I have about 2k miles on the clutch and the car shifts fine while moving, sometimes coming up to a stop light at a slow roll ( 5mph or so) you can feel the gears meshing up as the clutch is not disengaging all the way, and then of course their are times when it will not disengage at all. Funny thing is when it was brand new it worked great and as I put more miles on the clutch it gets worse and worse just like the first RST I installed last flipping May. Going on a year with this thing acting up.

For those that have actually done a clutch install let me ask you this. Is it feasible to slide the transmission back enough to get the slave unit loose enough to put the shim in with out completely dropping the transmission? Trying to save a few $$ here as this will be the 4th time the tranny has been out since last May.

Thanks

 

[JeremyH]

So it doesnt always do it and sometimes its worse? Sounds like air in the system and a small leak if there is a small leak in the line it will loose a little fluid when you clutch in and then when you release the clutch it can pull air in. I installed a ss clutch line on my setup. Also there is a link in this thread to the specs on the floater plate and sometimes it needs shims if it doesnt check out.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I had the same exact issue with my RST; it got worst and worst...

My failure was that my floating plate was machined incorrectly which led to my clutch disc, the one facing the flywheel to never make contact with the friction surface (flywheel/pressure plate). But after the engine warmed up, the disc would over heat and warp, making constant contact and not letting me shift into gears...once cooled off, it would work again until it got hot.

My solution was to exchange my RST for an RXT (much better heat handling)...but ultimately, the failure was with a bad floating ring...

I hate to say this, but your shim will not fix your issue... I have read quite a few people trying shims with no luck.

Have you called McLeod...?

 

[BruceH]

Autxracer and Jeremy,

Thanks for the feedback. I have about 2k miles on the clutch and the car shifts fine while moving, sometimes coming up to a stop light at a slow roll ( 5mph or so) you can feel the gears meshing up as the clutch is not disengaging all the way, and then of course their are times when it will not disengage at all. Funny thing is when it was brand new it worked great and as I put more miles on the clutch it gets worse and worse just like the first RST I installed last flipping May. Going on a year with this thing acting up.

For those that have actually done a clutch install let me ask you this. Is it feasible to slide the transmission back enough to get the slave unit loose enough to put the shim in with out completely dropping the transmission? Trying to save a few $$ here as this will be the 4th time the tranny has been out since last May.

Thanks

No. The transmission will have to come out to gain access to the slave. It slides over the input shaft.

 

[tbrock]

So it doesnt always do it and sometimes its worse? Sounds like air in the system and a small leak if there is a small leak in the line it will loose a little fluid when you clutch in and then when you release the clutch it can pull air in. I installed a ss clutch line on my setup. Also there is a link in this thread to the specs on the floater plate and sometimes it needs shims if it doesnt check out.

Running a jpc ss line and a jpc bleeder valve. When we first installed it last may the original clutch did the same thing. We measured everything on the initial install. We used the Ram worksheet to see if the shim was needed. We also made sure that the disc spacing was the .020-.025 as spec'd by McLeod. When I hit about 1k of miles on the first rst it started hanging up intermittently. We talked with Lee at McLeod and we thought that my issue was coming from a ridge on the inner disc that formed from using an exedy fly wheel. So I bought a McLeod fly wheel and Lee walked us through the install checking all of the specs. Again after about 1k miles the issue surfaced again. McLeod shipped me a new flywhel and clutch that Lee personally setup and they upgraded the clutch with Kevlar disc. Now with 2k on the clutch the problem is back not as severe (yet).

Autoxracer I'm afraid you are right about the shim not working. I guess it could be a bad slave even though it isn't leaking? We've checked the input shaft for burrs, made sure it isn't twisted or bent etc.

Thanks I'll post my decision/results.

 

[warbird]

Running a jpc ss line and a jpc bleeder valve. When we first installed it last may the original clutch did the same thing. We measured everything on the initial install. We used the Ram worksheet to see if the shim was needed. We also made sure that the disc spacing was the .020-.025 as spec'd by McLeod. When I hit about 1k of miles on the first rst it started hanging up intermittently. We talked with Lee at McLeod and we thought that my issue was coming from a ridge on the inner disc that formed from using an exedy fly wheel. So I bought a McLeod fly wheel and Lee walked us through the install checking all of the specs. Again after about 1k miles the issue surfaced again. McLeod shipped me a new flywhel and clutch that Lee personally setup and they upgraded the clutch with Kevlar disc. Now with 2k on the clutch the problem is back not as severe (yet).

Autoxracer I'm afraid you are right about the shim not working. I guess it could be a bad slave even though it isn't leaking? We've checked the input shaft for burrs, made sure it isn't twisted or bent etc.

Thanks I'll post my decision/results.

I feel your pain,and share your saga.. I'm on my 3rd RST,,3rd slave,,even
repalced clutch MC(up under dsah) and added SS hydrolic line.
I belive the issue is shimming the floater properly as well as expansion of
clutch disc when heated.
Mcleod is the west coast dristributor for "carpola".I've called then 6-7 times over the 8 month period that this was going on and was always told
is was something other than their product.They insisted I replace these other parts before a clutch replacement was warranted.
The 3rd one now has 800 miles on the clock.It's ok,but I have only driven it very easy.The truth is,I'm afraid to run it hard because when it gets hot the same shit is going happen and I know I cant deal with it again!!

frustrated..

 

[Meikol02]

Mine is still doing the same thing as TBrock's. The first install, the floater was not shimmed correctly. The second time it was set to .020 according to the shop. It works great when cold, but after it warms up it starts to act up. It is better than before the last shim, but it is still not right. My slave was new from Ford, and the Flywheel is a McLeod steel unit. Maybe there is material on the flywheel from the lack of shims during the first install? I don't know, just going to have to learn to pull the transmission myself. For now I am just dealing with it. At least it never slips!

 

[tbrock]

I talked to a shop owner in California who has installed 73 of the spec twin disc setups and he has had zero issues! I may have to save my pennies and go that route down the road.

 

[JeremyH]

LOL, 73 exactly, sounds like a made up stat is he a spec dealer?... lol

I have the act twin on my car now its pricey but holds 1000 tq

If it ever goes I will likely get an rst/rxt again.

 

[tbrock]

LOL, 73 exactly, sounds like a made up stat is he a spec dealer?... lol

I have the act twin on my car now its pricey but holds 1000 tq

If it ever goes I will likely get an rst/rxt again.

He is a shop/Dealer out of California who spends a lot of time on the Team Shelby Forum. Never heard anything bad about his shop or his work. It was 71 installs but he did two more last week prior to the Shelby Bash in Vegas. What is nice is he post pictures of customers cars coming through his shop for work so you can see what he does etc. I've just gotta live with a sticky clutch for a while, but when it comes out another McLeod product isn't going back in unless they are covering all of the parts/labor.

 

[JeremyH]

No worries just giving you a hard time about the number they fed ya. Havent seen anyone on here post about a spec twin personaly so cant comment on it.

 

[tbrock]

A quick update on my issue. I finally broke down and purchased another clutch. I went back with the stock flywheel and had a Mach 500 clutch installed. The car hasn't shifted this nice in over a year. I can find reverse, 2nd can be found as I roll into a stop light the tranny feels nice and smooth! The inner disc was barely touching the flywheel and the outer disc looked like it was getting a lot of use. My guess is a warped floater plate and/or a disc that is warping when it gets hot. Gee I only had to spend $4400 to get a clutch that actually works. I should have kept the noisey spec 2+ that was in the car prior to my McLeod ordeal.

 

[AutoXRacer]

The inner disc was barely touching the flywheel and the outer disc looked like it was getting a lot of use. My guess is a warped floater plate and/or a disc that is warping when it gets hot.

Thats exactly what my issue was; a bad floater plate!!!
I believe this is the issue everyone is having!!

It's a shame McLeod couldn't set you up right...

Glad you finally got the car running properly again.

 

[tbrock]

Thats exactly what my issue was; a bad floater plate!!!
I believe this is the issue everyone is having!!

It's a shame McLeod couldn't set you up right...

Glad you finally got the car running properly again.

Me too!! Funny thing is my gas mileage has gone up 2mpg? I have not idea as to why. I drive the same route in traffic each day and I was getting 16-17 and now I'm getting 18-19.4? weird but good.

 

[tbrock]

After two weeks of daily driving the clutch still feels awesome, reverse is a breeze and down shifting is super nice!!!

 

[tbrock]

Over a thousand miles since I installed the Mach 500 and life is still good. The clutch functions properly and thus the car shifts awesome!!!