Connecting different style compressor to factory A/C lines

Ryan D

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Really would like to make my A/C work out on this drag week project. Sanden SD7B10 Mini compressor was my only option to fit my setup on this LS swap into an '08 GT. Have the fitting coming today to adapt the compressor flange to o-ring style fittings. Problem is, I need to either go 90* straight down from there or 90* straight forward and then down and then tie into these quick connects below if possible. I have vac pump, gauges, have messed with a/c systems on trucks and tractors all my life, but have never had to plumb anything beyond changing parts for like parts, not up on the terminology of different fittings. Really appreciate any help/insight I can get.

Compressor.jpg
 

Joe combs

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Actually .. that shouldnt be too bad depending on where you live. As long as you have the fittings you should be able to have those hoses made... Any place that makes Hydraulic hoses would have the machine to crimp the fittings .. its just having the correct hose, the length and orientation of each hose correct.. and thats it

if you need any other help on the LS swap let me know... I'll try and help you with what I have helped my best friend with on his 09 408/TH400 LS swap...
 
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Ryan D

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Appreciate that Joe, I'm moving along pretty good, just trying to fit the turbo between the compressor and where the pcm and fusebox use to sit, and don't want to give up the A/C if there's a way... and there's always a way...
 

Joe combs

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Yes there is... going back to the A/C lines... you could probably buy a few feet of the hose from the same place you got your fittings and mock up everything then have your hoses crimped at any place that does the hydraulic lines for big trucks or tractors.
We were fortunate on my best friends car as it is N/A and we just left the underhood fuse box where it was and mounted the Fast XFI and XIM boxes inside the car. Using the AJE K-member and JPC Racing trans crossmember made the install pretty easy..
 

Ryan D

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How is the JPC crossmember, is it on the money? I was just going to fab one but if I can build one that doesn't need much modification, easier to just pick one up. Putting the 400 in it for now, and probably throw a gearvendors overdrive in there next spring. I'm using a Holley terminator Xmax, planned to mount it where the passenger airbag was.. could not believe it when the mounting tabs on the Holley lined up with the holes where the bag bolted in, it was meant to be! Fuse box and factory computer are back in there as well, easy relocate with only a few wires on the harness that crosses the rad support to the drivers side needing extended. Could have deleted 75% or more of that, but not patient enough to figure out what goes where and just wanted to plug in everything that's not engine related so I have windows and locks and not having to rewire all the lights and all that. Maybe down the road. Not trying to build a rocketship, so a pound here and there isn't a concern. If I can eventually run low 8's in a couple years I think I'll be good with it.
 

Juice

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Yup, custom lines are the simplest solution.
Did that on the coyote swap for the low pressure line.
5 years later, still nice and cold AC.
 

mattjames

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Yup, custom lines are the simplest solution.
Did that on the coyote swap for the low pressure line.
5 years later, still nice and cold AC.
I never had to discharge my system for my swap heh.
 

Joe combs

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The JPC crossmember was perfect... everything lined right up... Watson Racing also makes a crossmember for the TH400 swap too, but have only used the JPC setup... being that it lined up as it did, we could probably use their driveshaft too as we converted the 8.8 to a 1350 style yoke when we went through it.
currently set up with a stock steering rack, but probably move to epas..
factory pcm was deleted... just used the ford wiring diagram to make everything work like it should.
Using Autometer gauges mounted in the original tach and speedo location .. then a shelby dash mounted gauge pod for the other gauges...
 

Derby

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If you are using old r134a lines or components with your new r1234yf system, I would recommend flushing the entire system if using the 1234yf. the oils are similar but not compatible.
 

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