You guys are great. I'll reply below. Also..I have a twist here and need more input...
Here is the twist:
The pistons in this short-block are not Diamond 9.8:1's...they are Mahle pistons...Oh snap. Great if I was N/A...boosted....ugh...let's talk...
M3V220551F01
3050_01
90P68 M-2
M142
Translated:
Stock bore pistons 3.551" diameter
M142 Alloy (4032)
.866 pin diameter
3.556 MS-15 Rings
Dish -1CC (per Mahle, acutally .9CC)
With all the numbers below, it means
11.51:1 compression.
Bore: 3.554"
Stroke: 3.750"
Chamber: 49.8cc
Deck clearance: -.0080"
Gasket thickness: .0510" (I used a Cometic number)
Gasket diameter: 3.6220"
Dish: .9cc
Deck Height: 8.937"
Rod Length: 5.850"
Stroke: 3.750"
Compression Height: 1.220"
Deck clearance: -0.0080" (above deck)
Swept volume: 609.617cc
Gasket Volume: 8.611 cc
Clearance Volume: 58.011 cc
Compression Ratio: 11.51:1
Displacement: 297.6ci
Here is the Wallace racing calculator with the Comp 127350 Stage 2 VSR blower cams I plan on running:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php
Camshaft, Rod Length, Boost and Altitude Correction to Compression (1,026 MSL altitude for Atlanta)
Static compression ratio of 11.51:1.
Effective stroke is 3.75 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 11.30:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 247.03 PSI.
Your effective boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 9.0 PSI is 18.22 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is
So...post up your thoughts on whether I should buy new pistons or run this high compression with low boost. Bear in mine I have a TVS 2.3 blower.
Ford Racing makes a 3V head gasket set. About $70 for stock gaskets and TTY hardware. You'll be fine with TTY and 18 psi.
M-6067-3V46
Replace the pressure relief spring in the GT500 oil pump with your stock pressure relief spring. I just installed one in my car and at the advice of several members, I did that too. If I wasn't just an N/A car, I would have absolutely done the TSS gears. $300 insurance policy IMO.
I had a set of the 26125s break on me, I'd rather run the twist ties off a bread bag as valve spring than those again. I haven't heard of the 26113s breaking yet though. A few other members also had 26125s break. Use the steel retainers, no need for titanium.
Plastic 3V tensioners. The 2V metal tensioners have been known to break chain guides.
Oh snap, I ordered some Comp 26125's today. Maybe I'll call tomorrow and see if I can change it up to 26113's. I should have let this thread marinate a bit longer.
The TSS Billet Oil Pump Gears are an absolute must on boosted engines. We have a forum member that lost a brand new turbo'd engine due to stock gears breaking.
The FRPP Head Kit will suffice in your build, which includes TTY hardware. If you decide on a different head gasket and still need TTY hardware, shoot me a PM. I have a brand new set of the bolts I'd sell.
Windage Tray? I'd recommend changing to the FRPP 8.5qt Oil Pan Kit which includes a windage tray and new bolts. About $180 from Tasca.
Are you going to install either limiters or lockouts on your cams? If you go with lockouts, no need to change phasers...but at your current mileage and not locking the cams, I'd change those, too. If you decide not to lock the cams, might as well buy the complete FRPP Timing Kit and change it all.
I plan to install limiters, not lockouts. Based on this thread, I'll call Livernois and purchase theirs.
Based on all the TSS feedback I just read here, I may spend the money on the TSS billet oil pump gears and build the ultimate oil pump. I want to do this build once and have it run for a long, long time. I know it may be overkill with the 2013 GT500 pump, but for $300 more, I'd rather be safe than sorry.
M-6675-MSVT
Check out this thread for more info-
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108402
Shane, I would confer with my tuner before installing lockouts. Lockouts can cost you torque at low rpm which can negatively affect low speed performance when driving around town. When I had the wrong cams on my car I had difficulty navigating parking lots without stalling the car or having to rev it up like a teenager driving a stick shift for the first time.
My second set of cams were 127450's which worked much better. I did have limiters and the heads I used had bigger valves and upgraded springs.
I spoke with Livernois, they said I could go without limiters or lockout at all and let my tuner take care of things in the tune, but Dave said with the strong valve springs, the phasers would be struggling to operate at the limits, so he said he recommends limiters.
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Why did you select these cams for 98% street duty? Wouldn't you be better served with stock cams for the horsepower you seek and your application?
Two reasons:
1) I got them used at a great price.
2) Matches my build, offers stock-like idle with mild lope and decent gains on top (~30 HP is what I have read). All reviews I've seen on these are positive. Only gripe is having to change springs, but with a full build taking place, the heads will be off anyway.
I went with the Livernois springs with my cams and I have been very happy with them. If you are going to use limiters, I highly recommend not getting the Comp limiters, go with the Livernois limiters instead. The best deal was the FRPP replacement timing chains and phaser kit but they just greatly upped the price. I agree about the TSS gears, that's a no brainer, especially with a blower car.
I'm convinced...so in summary:
- I'll buy Livernois limiters
- I'll buy TSS billet oil pump gears
- Will call in AM to see if I can switch springs to 113's
- Already ordered steel retainers (will skip the titanium)
Up for discussion:
Should I buy new pistons?
Gerald, PM me a price on your JDM slugs from the first build, LOL. I need to find out if they work with my 3.750" stroker crank (vs. a 302 stroker crank like you have which is a 3.800" stroke)
Shane