Eaton or Auburn Locker Part Number Needed

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marcspaz

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Trutrac, Eaton, or Auburn Locker Part Number Needed

OK guys. My LSD is fried. I was gonna put a TruTrac in on Monday, but it is just another LSD. I am really not interested in another LSD. I had a Jeep with auto (ratching) lockers in the front and rear for 5+ years. I know how it will drive on the street and I am willing to except it in trade for the performance gains on the track.

I could use some help finding an Eaton or an Auburn auto-locker part number. Does anyone have one installed (if so, which one), or can any of our vendors tell me what unit would be the correct choice out of the "Auto Locking" platforms?

So far I like the Eaton 813A024...

I am not sure it will work because the discription says "open carrier" and we have LSD in our stock 8.8's. I am not sure if it will work without replacing the carrier itself.

EDIT---------> Does anyone have the correct part number for the trutrac fitting the 8.8 in the S197? The part number my guy gave me says fitment stops in the Mustang at 2004. I can't find any TruTrac number that's listed for 2005+ Mustang 8.8 w/31 spline axles.

Thanks,
Spaz
 
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andyman

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Randy (Born To Run) has an electronic auburn locker, I would ask him. He says he is very pleased with it :)
 
thump_rrr

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marcspaz said:
OK guys. My LSD is fried. I was gonna put a TruTrac in on Monday, but it is just another LSD. I am really not interested in another LSD. I had a Jeep with auto (ratching) lockers in the front and rear for 5+ years. I know how it will drive on the street and I am willing to except it in trade for the performance gains on the track.

I could use some help finding an Eaton or an Auburn auto-locker part number. Does anyone have one installed (if so, which one), or can any of our vendors tell me what unit would be the correct choice out of the "Auto Locking" platforms?

So far I like the Eaton 813A024...

I am not sure it will work because the discription says "open carrier" and we have LSD in our stock 8.8's. I am not sure if it will work without replacing the carrier itself.

Thanks,
Spaz
Click to expand...
The Eaton E-locker is an open diff when not locked so there is no LSD type function while cornering.

The Auburn ECTED has LSD type function while not locked but it can also wear out.

This is why I chose the Detroit Truetrac which I will be installing this week.
 
06gt4rad

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I would go with Either the Eaton Pro LS (trust me it is Awesome)

Or the Detroit True Trac

Both are made by Eaton by the way.
 
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It's not that I don't like the TruTrac. Lots of people have told me that it is better than stock, but it still has clutches that can/will need to be replaced.

I have only put about 80 passes on my current LSD and about 10k miles. If the TruTrac last twice as long as the factory stock unit, that is still only 160 passes and 20k miles. Which for me is about 14 to 16 months of use.

I had the factory unit replaced under warrantry when the car had 15k miles on it. It now has 25k miles on it and this is gonna be the 3rd unit going in and it is starting to bug me.

The lockers I had in my Jeep had no visable signs of wear on them when the truck was totaled at 100k miles.
 
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I downloaded the PDF. Maybe I need to reconsider this as an option.


"Typical TrueTrac differentials are shown above. As with a conventional differential, the TrueTrac side gears are interconnected by pinion gears, which allow one wheel to slow down or speed up as required. TrueTrac gears have spiral teeth, and the pinions are mounted in pockets in the case. If one wheel begins to lose traction, the pinions separate slightly from the side gear, and wedge in the pockets.
As input torque increases, the separating force increases, thus slowing or stopping the spinout. This allows torque to be distributed to the wheel with the best footing.​


Note: TrueTrac differentials require a certain amount of resistance at the ground in order to start the power transfer. A TrueTrac differential may not transfer power if the spinning wheel is off the ground. If spinning occurs, often a light application of the brakes, while carefully applying power, will slow the spinning wheel enough to allow the TrueTrac differential to transfer torque to the other wheel."​
 
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Does anyone have the correct part number for the trutrac fitting the 8.8 in the S197? The part number my guy gave me says fitment stops in the Mustang at 2004. I can't find any TruTrac number that's listed for 2005+ Mustang 8.8 w/31 spline axles.
 
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marcspaz

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never mind...he replied...

Pete, I thought you had it installed already. When is your install going on? This week?
 
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thump_rrr said:
If you need to get new bearings get the FRPP M-4210-B kit.
Don't get the M-4210-C kit which includes the axle bearings and seals since our axles are thicker than the 1986-2004
Click to expand...

Ah, ok...That works. I'm straight on the axle bearings. The carrier and pinion bearings will be replaced though. I am pretty sure I am going to install the FRPP 4.30 R&P instead of putting the 4.10's back in.
 
thump_rrr

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marcspaz said:
Now for that one, the application guide says that part number (913A561) stops at 2000. Your telling me it worked for you? If so, I'll buy it.



Not sure if this was for me or Pete, but I do all my own work (unless I can get warranty work for free :clap:).
Click to expand...
I do all my own work too but without the Rotunda 205-S127 pinion depth setting tool I won't attempt it.
The last complete tool kit I spotted was going for $600.00 used and $1327.50 new.
 
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Shit son, you're making parts aren't you? I would hope you do your own work ;-)

Eh, way over rated tool though.

Chrysler tried to sell me on that same BS when I was doing my Jeep setup. They wanted $1k for theirs. I did the whole job with a TQ wrench, dial gauge, digital caliper, and a bearing pre-load wrench.

I measured the new bearing asseambly and old bearing assembly, crushed the sleeve with the "assumed" corrected depth using the old bearings. I then pulled out the pinion, pressed the old bearing off, the new bearing into place and slapped it back in. On the third trial fit, I got it down to where it needed to be. The depth was on the money (within .001) and after I set the backlash and carrier pre-load the pattern was perfect.

I did however let the dealer do my R&P on the S197 because they said they would (and have) continue to honor the driveline warranty.
 
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