GR40SS or Peice meal?

Germeezy3

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Its going to have to be a trade off in some of the areas you are seeking especially if you want to drift the car. Its a slippery slope you can go down, you increase the rear grip...it makes the car understeer more...you increase the front grip but now rear grip is lacking. You need to break it down as to what are the most important attributes to you vs what would be cool to occasionally do with the car.
 

Dreadknought

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Gotcha. I guess what I am really looking for is adjustability. I understand that I am asking for the best of several worlds, but I'm just looking for peices of kit with which would give me good street manners, but that I can tune between understeer and oversteer with out having to swap(many) parts. Is this possible?
 

Sky Render

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that I can tune between understeer and oversteer with out having to swap(many) parts. Is this possible?

Adjustable sway bars would let you do that to some extent. Whiteline makes some pretty sweet swaybars for very good prices, but their website is being retarded and isn't listing our vehicles right now.
 

knownukes

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I guess quite a few of you have seen my thread in chit chat, but I wanted some corner carver's specific inputs. Those that happen to be in the know, What would be a more cost effective solution? The Griggs Racing GR40SS kit, or peice mealing several different brands of suspension together.

Car will be primarily a dd but I want to be able to turn with the best of them. Going to try to get into alot of HPDE and drifting.

Just ordered a modified version of the GRST package. I should have it in a couple months. I will let everyone know how it performs.

BJ
 

GR40Freak

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in my opinion it's way way overpriced but buy what you want. To this day I've never seen one come out and dominate at our events in nasa great lakes.

The few guys I've seen that have it really don't give us other guys to much problems with racing with them. and most of us are on stock k-members.

That being said... I've been able to lap a stock engined 2008GT GR40 street car that weighs 3800lbs. around Infineon within 2sec. of the Infineon AI record. The truth is the new S197 chassis is so good that the GR40SS is the most I would as an upgrade. Ditching the crappy rear setup for a Watts/TorqueArm makes a noticeable difference.

For you being a racer, its best explained as it just makes the car less work to drive at the limit, and it allows you to go over the limit without biting your head off. You'd really have to drive one to see what I mean. But after working there for a few years, thousands of miles of testing driving GR equipped cars and then driving a new 2010 Miller Car I can still tell the difference.

Besides as you know... it usually comes down to the nut behind the wheel.

Darrell Anderson has destroyed the NASA AIX/SCCA ITE lap record for every track he has raced at. He took 6 seconds out of the old Infineon record, from a 1:45 to a 1:39. Laguna, Thunderhill...

Fun video of him running down a $250K 700HP twin turbo $250K:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33ZklC0pjmE

Colin
 
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GR40Freak

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Its very easy to drift a GR car. You just have to have the right setup. Dan Pina has been competing in the DriftCar Challenge for years with a GR chassis.

Google: Drift Patrol

Lots of videos.

redbullchamp.jpeg.jpg
 

Germeezy3

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That being said... I've been able to lap a stock engined 2008GT GR40 street car that weighs 3800lbs. around Infineon within 2sec. of the Infineon AI record. The truth is the new S197 chassis is so good that the GR40SS is the most I would as an upgrade. Ditching the crappy rear setup for a Watts/TorqueArm makes a noticeable difference.

For you being a racer, its best explained as it just makes the car less work to drive at the limit, and it allows you to go over the limit without biting your head off. You'd really have to drive one to see what I mean. But after working there for a few years, thousands of miles of testing driving GR equipped cars and then driving a new 2010 Miller Car I can still tell the difference.

Besides as you know... it usually comes down to the nut behind the wheel.

Darrell Anderson has destroyed the NASA AIX/SCCA ITE lap record for every track he has raced at. He took 6 seconds out of the old Infineon record, from a 1:45 to a 1:39. Laguna, Thunderhill...

Fun video of him running down a $250K 700HP twin turbo $250K:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33ZklC0pjmE

Colin

You are by far more of an expert on this setup than me, I was waiting for you to chime in. Griggs is definitely not smoke and mirrors, and even with my non race car driver skills the car is noticeably better in so many ways. Add brakes and good tires and your able to corner at speeds that takes some recalibration of the brain to get used to. And amazingly enough for a car that has such high limits its very progressive up to and over the limits.


Its very easy to drift a GR car. You just have to have the right setup. Dan Pina has been competing in the DriftCar Challenge for years with a GR chassis.

Google: Drift Patrol

Lots of videos.

redbullchamp.jpeg.jpg

That was my point, that the setup for max track attack and drifting is completely different. Our project car awaits a SLA kit and a watts link.
 

Dreadknought

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Is it a crime to want my car to look good as well. I must confess that I don't track the car very often simply because road racing is not a cheap hobby. But I have a full and complete understanding of what you guys are talking about and why, its just that this car is also my daily and I take great pride in its appearance. I am just trying to use other's experience to make up for the lack of my own. Also, for the plans that I have for the car, if I do go with the Griggs kit, That will be probably the last suspension mods I do to the car. Ever. Not withstanding sways and bumpsteer kit and the like. But I wont have the skills to use that much for a long time I imagine. What can I say? I have a vision for the car and I'm trying to work it.

Now that being said, if I decided against the griggs kit, would I be better served throwing some koni yellows under my sportlines, or going with ground control coil overs? A set up with plenty of room for me to grow into.
 
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Germeezy3

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Is it a crime to want my car to look good as well. I must confess that I don't track the car very often simply because road racing is not a cheap hobby. But I have a full and complete understanding of what you guys are talking about and why, its just that this car is also my daily and I take great pride in its appearance. I am just trying to use other's experience to make up for the lack of my own. Also, for the plans that I have for the car, if I do go with the Griggs kit, That will be probably the last suspension mods I do to the car. Ever. Not withstanding sways and bumpsteer kit and the like. But I wont have the skills to use that much for a long time I imagine. What can I say? I have a vision for the car and I'm trying to work it.

Now that being said, if I decided against the griggs kit, would I be better served throwing some koni yellows under my sportlines, or going with ground control coil overs? A set up with plenty of room for me to grow into.

The ground control coil overs are the same ones that Griggs uses so even though its not the whole kit including the torque arm its a great upgrade.
 

DusterRT

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You're getting caught up in the parts buying race. Brand XYZ coilovers so you get improved dampening, and you can screw with the ride height to your heart's content (bump up for the track, slam for the show and shine). Then buy track time and consumables with the ~$2000 you have left over. You'll never fully appreciate the fancy hardware until you've got ample seat time with a basic setup anyway. Actually using your car is far more gratifying than building it and looking at it, and you'll be a better driver for it too..
 

Sky Render

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You're getting caught up in the parts buying race. Brand XYZ coilovers so you get improved dampening, and you can screw with the ride height to your heart's content (bump up for the track, slam for the show and shine). Then buy track time and consumables with the ~$2000 you have left over. You'll never fully appreciate the fancy hardware until you've got ample seat time with a basic setup anyway. Actually using your car is far more gratifying than building it and looking at it, and you'll be a better driver for it too..

This. /\/\/\

Sure, I could have gone out and blown a few Gs on KW Variant 3 coilovers, Strano swaybars, and Steeda chassis bracing, but I know that I'm not good enough (yet) to actually need all that.

My point is that if you want to lower your car, go for it, but don't waste the money on an entire chassis system unless you really need it.
 

Dreadknought

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Ok. I concede. After reading everyone's input and rethinking my goals and needs, I have come up with a new set of plans.

Ground Control Coilovers $1655.18 Shipped
Red Corbeau A4s + Mounts $839.97 Picked Up
Nitrous Outlet 3v Plate System $701.99 Picked Up
FRPP Intake $519.99 Picked Up
BMR K Member $499.99 Picked Up
Steeda LCA Relos $144.99 Picked Up

For a grand total of $4529.17

I'm call Sam here soon and see if he recomends upgrading my sways.

One question. Just FMI, do drop spindles correct the same problems as bumpsteer kits and the like?

Thanks for all the honest input guys.
 
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