LCAs and Wheel Hop

[JG-1]

Is a decent set of LCAs all that is needed to get rid of wheel hop on a 2012 Mustang GT?

I'd love to get rid of wheel hop and lower the car a little. I'd like to keep the price down if possible. How would I fair with a decent set of LCAs, lowering springs (1-1.5" all around), and an adjustable pan hard bar?

 

[stkjock]

yes

LCA relocation brackets would be a good addition to that list

 

[MechE]

Not sure how technical you want to get but if you want to know the why behind this; look up anti-squat and side view instant center (IC or SVIC). You can figure out the interaction between the lowering springs, relocation brackets, and control arm lengths.

 

[skwerl]

BMR has the setup for you. Some of the best hardware in the business and good service to boot.

 

[JG-1]

BMR has the setup for you. Some of the best hardware in the business and good service to boot.

I've talked with BMR. They're suggestions for lowering and anti wheel hop where just shy of $1000 and that was with discount. I was curious if I could do it a bit cheaper.

 

[stkjock]

Do it right and not cheap

 

[skwerl]

If you want cheap then try UPR. They copy products from companies such as BMR then have the pieces made cheap in China.

And before Sharad or any other UPR ball licker says anything, I've seen the BMR account and order info for the owner of UPR, he is one of their best customers. Tends to order one of almost everything!

 

[Kobie]

Do it right and not cheap

^^This^^

Do it right the first time or risk doing it twice.

 

[JG-1]

So I have to spend a thousand bucks to get rid of wheel hop?

 

[stkjock]

You can start with just LCAs and that will be a huge improvement.

 

[JUSTA3V]

BMR LCA's got rid of my wheel hop completely.

So whatever they go for nowadays will get you started

 

[07TR]

Good info here guys thanks

 

[TOWGUNNER]

LCA and relocation brackets
lowering springs
like a few posted earlier do it right the first time.

 

[Pentalab]

You want the lca's lower at the axle end. The 2012's come with wheel hop.... which will get worse with lowering springs. The BMR lca relocate brackets ( use the middle holes) will solve ur wheel hop issues. Also get the BMR adj pan hard bar + mating PHB brace.

 

[i am ryan]

You could, if you wanted to, peruse the FS section and buy your components used. Being that they're relatively inexpensive new and that they're wear items, I would buy new anyways. You will need new shocks and struts sooner rather than later because of the increased wear from the lowering springs, but quite honestly you can fare with just springs for a while. May just be a bouncy ride after a while.

 

[wbt]

Wrong info in here. LCA's alone will NOT eliminate wheelhop. You will want to replace the UCA to get rid of wheelhop.

Do it on the cheap with the Roush upper control arm. If you want to lower the car then get some LCA brackets and use the middle hole to correct the geometry.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-lower-control-arm-relocation-bracket-kit-05.html

If you want quality, lightweight suspension parts that fit correctly then UPR is the way.

 

[JG-1]

Ok so with stock springs, go with LCAs.

If lowered, go with LCAs, adjustable brackets using middle holes, and panhard bar.

 

[Pentalab]

Stock springs + aftermarket LCA's won't solve wheel hop. The aftermarket LCA's typ all have stiffer bushings, instead of the marsh mellow bushings the oem lca's have. If using oem springs, install either a roush uca.... or the BMR uca. The BMR adjustable UCA doesn't cost much more, and allows for some flexibility to fine tune stuff.

If using lowering springs, then install the BMR LCA relocate brackets..as well as the roush /bmr uca.

I replaced my oem ford LCA's with boxed type BMR lca's ( non adj)..since my oem lca's were trashed.

The roush cars all come with the roush suspension..which also includes the roush UCA. The roush suspension kit comes with new lowering springs, struts /shocks + stiffer front + rear sway bars, etc, etc. However the roush suspension kit does not come with the roush UCA.

So after I lowered the car with the roush suspension kit ( 1" front..and 1.25" rear), my oem lca's were higher at axle end.... which made the wheel hop worse. The axle was also shifted to the driver's side by 3/8". The fix was to install the BMR adj PHB + mating BMR PHB brace. Also installed the BMR LCA relocate brackets + BMR boxed type LCA's ( fixed length). Problems solved.

Later on, I installed the Steeda HD front strut mounts....so I now have camber adjustment...and set both fronts to -1 deg camber. It would have been a lot easier to have installed the steeda HD front strut mounts at the same time as the Roush front springs + new roush struts etc. BMR uses DOM for their square + round tubing. The adjustable portion of their adjustable PHB is made from chromolly steel. I have no clue what UPR uses with their chinese steel..'alloys'.

 

[JUSTA3V]

BMR poly boxed LCAs and stock everything else solved my wheel hop issues. Both on the street and at the track lunching on drag radials

Maybe I just got lucky.

 

[wbt]

Ok so with stock springs, go with LCAs.

If lowered, go with LCAs, adjustable brackets using middle holes, and panhard bar.

Wrong.

With stock springs go with just the Roush upper.

If you lower the car then get the UPR LCA relo brackets and run in the middle hole ALONG WITH the Roush upper. No need to replace LCA's.