TOP 5 3V MUSTANG (BOLT ON ENGINE MODS) 2005 through 2010 4.6L GT Parts Guide - YouTube
If you listen closely to what Brent is saying concerning this video's topic, you'll pick up on just how much the tuning is the main contributor to any of these parts doing what they do, not just the parts themselves.
Enjoy!
PS--Especially listen to what Brent says concerning low end TQ loss concerning cams..........
The more I rethink all my work, the more I'm convinced that the 22 in-lbs pinion preload is the problem (too tight) instead of the outer pinion bearing itself that is causing the harmonics between 35-45 MPH, but since I didn't pull it out to check it (wasn't an issue prior & I didn't want to waste a perfectly good pinion seal if I didn't have to.....even though I had a new one on hand) I can't say for sure until I do so.I recently installed a set of Ford Performance 4.10 in my 8.8. They are also full hunting and I think 2 cut type gears. I also used Fords install kit that came with the 2010 heavy duty pinion bearing. (One less roller). It did not require a spacer behind the race to use the heavy duty 2010 bearing. I used the original 0.030” shim and the darn thing set right up and with the backlash in spec I got a good pattern. I did try to reuse the solid bushing and shims I had run before but got frustrated wrestling with the preload and went with the crush collar. I am happy so far as there is no noise from the diff and I have hit it hard a few times. Good luck with your diff rebuild and you might consider the Ford performance install kit that includes the HD pinion bearing.
For what\how you're using your steed, I think the FP 8.8" Hi TQ bearing kit is a must for you in order to get some kind of consistent longevity (to keep pinion angle true to carrier centerline......especially when you're lifting front tires on a 3,400-3,600 lb car running a PD blower) out of the bearings & gears.I ended up with 21 in-lbs preload and 0.009” backlash. The carrier is snug but not tight. Seems good so far. I’m not sure if the HD bearing on the inside of the pinion is the “trick”. It might be the great deal of time I spent making sure all the sparkly stuff was cleaned out.
Now my HVAC air control actuators should be here Tuesday so I can then fix this issue that just came up last Thursday.
Well send it over cause that's 1 of them getting done (went off your guide in DIY forum).If you're doing the one on the driver's side behind the instrument cluster, I can lend you my book of swear words.
The math makes my head hurt but I sure understand “close enough”. Interested to see if the lighter pinion load works out. I am also using Lucas 80-90 dino fluid. Will you be switching to heavier synthetic after break in?I wasn't about to mess w\ this anymore
Yeah, I plan to switch to using Lucas HP 85W-140 GL-5 dino fluid after break in (this is a Lucas heavier formulated version of GL-5 dino diff fluid so is compatible w\ the Eaton Tru-Trac diff) as this stuff is damn good (what On3 uses for all their performance axle work).The math makes my head hurt but I sure understand “close enough”. Interested to see if the lighter pinion load works out. I am also using Lucas 80-90 dino fluid. Will you be switching to heavier synthetic after break in?
Got my actuators in yesterday. Went & made attempt today to replace the dreaded actuator behind IC........got the 1 easy screw out but after fiddling around for another 1 1\2 hrs trying to get the 2nd screw out & my carpal tunnel started flaring up in both wrists, I quickly scratched this job, so I put the 1st screw back in & put all back together.If you're doing the one on the driver's side behind the instrument cluster, I can lend you my book of swear words.
Thank God you got that sorted.I didn't come up w\ any new swear words so no copyright infringements made to your published book