My Edlebrock e-Force Supercharger Kit showed up today

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by c0op3r, May 31, 2019.

  1. 07 Boss

    07 Boss forum member

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    No it doesn't, not necessarily. It means you have a restriction. The blower will pump x amount of air at a given rpm. If all that air gets sucked in the cylinders there is no boost and lots of power. If you restrict that air and it doesn't get into the cylinders you get pressure or boost. So given the same supercharger speed the less boost you make the more power you will produce.
     
  2. MrAwesome987

    MrAwesome987 forum member

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    I understand what you are saying, but I was assuming his engine was basically stock with a blower on top, and with those assumptions, it would be making way more power than the stock bottom end could handle. But then again, I probably shouldn't assume.
     
  3. 07 Boss

    07 Boss forum member

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    Well I look at it this way. Standard pulley on an Edelbrock pumps so much air on a stock motor and produces y amount of psi or boost. Now in this situation the same amount of air is producing y+? of boost or psi. That would lead me to the conclusion that there is either a restriction. Whether there is a physical restriction or a valve timing issue etc. We don't know. Or his manifold pressure gauge is off.

    It would be my assumption that if he is indeed running 14 psi on a pulley that is supposed to make 8 psi that his car will be down on power. That means that out of the x amount of air being pushed there is a greater amount that is not getting into the cylinders as it should and thus the higher boost reading. Does that make sense?
     
  4. MrAwesome987

    MrAwesome987 forum member

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    Yeah that makes sense. Thanks for more explanation.
     
  5. 07 Boss

    07 Boss forum member

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    No problem. I could be completely wrong but I don't see how he can make so much boost with the standard pulley without something else effecting it. Or, like I mentioned earlier, he might be making 8 psi but his gauge is reading 14. My gauge actually is about 1.5 psi off. It reads almost -2 with the motor off.
     
  6. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Motor is stock. I dont think there is a blockage, but then again I am only a shade tree mechanic. I will have to have VMP look at the car when it goes over there. Just gotta save a bit of money for that.
     
  7. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    Boost reading is just back pressure in the manifold. Does your boost gauge read... 'zero' with eng OFF ?
    Is boost gauge plumbed directly to the manifold ?

    A restrictive exhaust will also cause higher boost readings. Like clogged, or semi clogged cat(S)...
    or semi clogged muffler(S)...... or a cat(S) coming apart inside....with debris getting stuck down stream.

    The aeroforce gauge will also depict cat temps individually. Normally, both readings are identical.
    1200 F at idle and a bit higher cruising... and 1800-1900 F at wot. Even at wot, they still read the same. IF one cat is reading a lot higher than the other, it's usually a sign that the higher temp reading cat is clogging up. Cat readings from OBD port come from REAR O2 sensors..... so IF they
    are shut off in the tune, no cat readings .

    14 psi vs 8 psi is one helluva big difference...... which has to be accounted for. It could also be a combo of issues. IMO, get it sorted out...if possible.... before taking it to VMP. If not, VMP will have to spend a lot of time sorting it out.... B4 they can begin to tune.

    When u swapped rear axle gears, did you change the revs per mile on the SCT ?
     
  8. 01yellerCobra

    01yellerCobra forum member

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    I'd try either a different gauge or different spot. The fact that you're only seeing 8-9" of vacuum and 14psi on a 5psi pulley leads me to believe something is up with the gauge.
     
  9. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Yes, there is a port on the passenger side of the supercharger manifold provided by Edelbrock - I used that.


    The car does have a Akropovik cat back exhaust system, but (if I remember correctly it still has the front cats installed) and I did have to turn off the light in the SCT Livewire Programmer.

    I will have to look into if a set of headers is made that will bolt up directly to that cat back exhaust, if so it might be time to just go to that and completely get rid of the cats.


    I agree that is why I was so shocked by the number and did not install the stage 2 pulley, I was a little nervous about the amount of boost I might see on a stock bottom end. I want to get a BOSS block built for the car but I can only come up with so much money at a time.

    I told the programmer that the car has 4.10:1 gears, is that what you mean?
     
  10. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    So I did a little looking up the exhaust, its been a long time since I installed that exhaust and I could not remember 100%, anyway looks like I do not have Cats at all anymore.

    Akropovic exhaust.JPG

    The exhaust system seems to have replaced everything after the exhaust manifold (I do still have stock cast exhaust manifolds).

    So cats being blocked is out of the picture.

    The upside is I did just get a new large job (I am a network eng, and designer) so I will have a little extra money to get the tune done and I am thinking about getting a set of shorty headers installed before that tune.
     
  11. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    So a little update, I had installed the Odyssey battery under the hood but was not really happy with the look. So I took the advice of several of you to just mount it in the trunk, I got to work on that a little bit today. I got the Terminal Blocks installed on the firewall. They are RivNut fastened in place, I have cut off the factory battery terminals and crimped on the copper terminal that will mate with the terminal block.

    I still have to dress it all out and tighten everything - I only got them in place (painted the holes for the RevNuts) and mounted the blocks.

    I will be looming and securing the wires, heat shrinking the terminals.

    I then need to run the ground in the rear and run the positive all the way up. I will post a few additional photos of the finished project, I should have it done tomorrow. The car goes to VMP on Wednesday to get Dyno Tuned. A few other things to button up, the gauge cluster is not got its final mounting, and it does not have power to the light the gauges yet either. I really need to get the "Party Pulley" installed also.

    Here is a photo or two of the terminals so far, remember nothing is dressed, secured or tightened in place yet.

    IMG_1354.jpg

    IMG_1355.jpg

    IMG_1356.jpg

    IMG_1357.jpg
     
  12. travelers

    travelers Senior Member

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    Very nice and neat job. Where did you get the terminal blocks?
     
  13. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    I got them at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BH3XQ1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I ended up ordering pretty much every thing I needed from them, including a new hydraulic crimp tool (I need it for the large ring connector to large gauge ring terminals) and a better RevBut tool (I only had the small hand version before) the new one is a large unit shaped like bolt cutters.

    I also got a 4 position fuse block that uses ATM (mini fuses like the car) so I can get rid of the 'add a fuse' connections for the Dual Fuel Pump setup and the Water to Air Heat Exchanger I will post photos of that once it is installed also.
     
  14. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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  15. Bullitt2954

    Bullitt2954 Junior Member

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    Fuse/Breaker protects the Wires... size it to the [recommended] current-carrying capacity of the CABLE, not how much current you think you’re going to draw through it.... “Undersized/Derated” fuse is OK.....

    (Yes - Fuse it - unless you think a dead-short somewhere between the battery and engine compartment is Unpossible)

    (It Isn’t, BTW)
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2019
  16. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    Agreed. I have never measured the current drawn by the starting motor. How much is it ? It's a start battery. Once started, the 135 A oem alternator in the eng bay is providing current. The possible issue is Voltage drop, so the wire from trunk mounted battery.....to eng bay needs to be the right gauge. 3 gauge is good for 100A. (75 C rated). 1-0 ( in 90 C) is good for aprx 170A. But a battery sitting overnight is typ 12.3 vdc.....so don't want un-needed V drop. Typ jumper cables are 6 gauge.

    Dunno what gauge cable to suggest. But don't over fuse it. The finer stranded wire is a lot easier to work with.
     
  17. travelers

    travelers Senior Member

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    Yes, I used Watson Racing batt relocation kit which has a 250A fuse. I don't really like the up front setup so I might be changing it. Thanks for the info. I would go with this circuit braker style

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2019
  18. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Got the battery fully mount today (damn rain cooled it off but wasted a bunch of my time), tomorrow or Tuesday I will run the cable from the battery in the rear up to the terminal blocks and finish it all up.

    No the Positive is not really connect I only put it in place for the photo and then took it back off.

    58544173356__9B43EF05-62C0-4E47-A7C2-3168ADE36363.JPG
     
  19. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    I got it all finished up today, well the battery relocated at least. I still need to add the 4 position fuse box for the fuel pump, air to water intercooler and nitrious cooling bar solenoid (with 1 spare).

    But it all worked out great.
    IMG_1364.jpg IMG_1365.jpg IMG_1366.jpg IMG_1367.jpg IMG_1361.jpg BTW that yellow/orange wire is factory, and that grommet on the passenger side is my new best friend, even though I think I should have that wheel and fender liner install with Velcro as much as I have had them off and on in that couple weeks.


    I would like to thank - Amazon, Jegs, Milwaukee Tools and Tiny Toolbox for making this project possible (joking of course I buy all my own parts).
     
  20. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    I finally actually installed the 'Party Pulley' today as I am headed to VMP for the tune tomorrow morning - I will get the dyno files and post them after they are done.

    I also installed a 250Amp Slo-Blo fuse on the battery line for a little extra safety

    Paty Pulley Installed.jpg Remote battery with fuse installed.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
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