My Edlebrock e-Force Supercharger Kit showed up today

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by c0op3r, May 31, 2019.

  1. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Yep thats the plan - except they will get to see the car, as I am going to go there - they are only like 2 hours away from me. The 650$ is the quote for an on site dyno (do it all in one day tune).
     
  2. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    FINALLY got that pump in and working! The original install took about 3 hours and went pretty smoothly.

    BUT it did not work when I was done so I ended up spending another 5 hours tearing it all apart, looking for where I screwed up at, cutting to the chase - I did not Ford did not lock 2 pins into one of the harnesses and the pins pushed back and did not make contact - Thanx Ford I love doing a job like 7 times!

    SO its in and working now, I will say they need to spend a little more time making sure that harness is right, also the instructions say the harness is labeled it is NOT, not that its a big deal it pretty much lays out like it is designed to connect in the car so common sense there and you are OK.

    Last its missing 2 bolts that are used to mount the Fuel Pump Module to the FPM bracket, again I had some bolt that fit, but for a 900$ kit that is not acceptable.

    Tomorrow onto the next step, zip tying everthing back that I did and cut out, and then install the uprated fuel injectors, lets hope that goes better, it did the first time I installed the ones included in the Edelbrock kit, so fingers crossed.
     
  3. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    OK my Gauges are here, I got the Fuel Pump done and the 60lbs Injectors in.

    Mustang Boost Gauge.jpg
     
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  4. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    How much crank hp / tq is the stage 1 / stage 2 kit supposed to put out ?
     
  5. MrAwesome987

    MrAwesome987 forum member

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    The internet says 466 hp/439 torque for the stage 1 kit, but it doesn't specify if that's wheel or crank.
     
  6. MrAwesome987

    MrAwesome987 forum member

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    Another site says those numbers are at 5 lbs of boost so I'd assume those numbers are crank.
     
  7. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Yeah I really dont know yet but hopefully by the end of the month I can get it over to VMP and get it tuned and dyno'ed, I will most likely tell them to stay under 450 ft lbs of torque, I have read that is really about all the stock bottom end is good for.

    I will talk to them about that and start making a plan for a better built bottom in with stock size, I really want to stay at the 281 Cubic Inches.

    On a side note I have started converting the former Nitrious Outlet nitrious system to an Intercooler cooling setup.

    I am going to keep the cup holder switch control system, the NOS Window switch, the Billet bottle Bracket w/ heater and NOS bottle open/close solenoid. I am adding the 'Snake' cooling bar, new solenoid and mounting kit and a purge kit (cause its neat). I wanted to show you all the Nitrious Express Milwaukee M18 battery powered bottle heater (self contained) power source.

    I bought this about 2 yrs ago and never installed it - cause I was just not using the car and busy with work. I always thought it was really neat, and the fact that you dont have to worry about draining the cars battery makes it totally worth it.

    DSC_9527.jpg DSC_9528.jpg
     
  8. 01yellerCobra

    01yellerCobra forum member

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    I've yet to see a cooling bar actually do anything worthwhile. Aside from impress people at a car show. I remember seeing one where the guy claimed he made like 50hp after installing one. You could see the nitrous flowing into the air filter during the dyno run. So there was his increase.

    If you're doing it for show, cool. If you're looking for a performance increase sell the kit and spend your money elsewhere.
     
  9. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Yeah I dont actually expect any gain, I live in FL. and its hot as satan's ass crack 8 month out of the year. So if I can just keep the intercooler from heat soak under 80%+ throttle, I will be happy.

    And as you said its more for looks and show than anything else, also I already had all the expensive parts of the kit (bottle, bracket, window switch and control panel), so I really did not spend that much.

    ALSO and this is a biggy when the wife drives the car she loves to purge on the other mustangs that have the best parts that VatoZone has to offer, so there is always that.

    I like to always love to tell her I should of saved massive amounts of money, time and sweat and just bought a loud ass exhaust and one of those CO2 purge kits, she would of been happy.



     
  10. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    It is crank hp. The 5 psi is a bit of a misnomer. It starts at 5 psi at low rpm's... then hit's 8 psi at redline. The long runner's on their intake manifold are optimized for low-midrange rpm's. 3.875" pulley used.

    Stage 2 kit ups the crank hp to 539 hp....and uses a smaller 3.25" pulley....and bigger injector's etc.
    9 psi boost. 539 x .88 = 474 rwhp... which is a bunch. The oem rods on the 4.6 L are pretzel sticks imo. VMP can optimize the tune and make it safe. Typ the timing gets pulled when IAT's reach 135 F.
     
  11. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    The generally accepted number is 450 RWHP for the stock 3V. Never read anywhere the 450 limited referenced as torque, though I assume it is likely close anyway.
     
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  12. 07 Boss

    07 Boss forum member

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    I might have to debate that 450 rwhp number. Back when I started building my car 500 was the limit of the stock bottom end. 450 was the limit for the stock 5R55S transmission. In fact Shelby told me that they wouldn't tune the car with my Whipple kit and the stock tranny. I swapped it out and we dynoed the car at 485 rwhp. Ran it that way for a while and then backed the timing off a bit and ran it at 465 until now. The car has 60K miles on it at those levels and I drive it like it's stolen. Back in the day we had plenty of guys running up to 515 rwhp with a good tune. There are many more factors involved with snapping a rod. A/F ratio and ignition timing along with avoiding detonation is what will keep from blowing your motor. I mean you can blow the motor at 400 rwhp with a shitty tune. I think 500 is a safe number with a good tune.
     
  13. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Got the Pulley back today, so the package is almost done.

    Party Pulley Engraved.jpg

    I will get it installed and get my appointment setup for VMP at the end of the month.
     
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  14. 06JET

    06JET forum member

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    I have been told that HP is important but the break factor was at 450 RWTQ. Over 500HP was OK with a good safe tune but 450 rwtq was the limit no matter what the tune was. I'm sure there are a lot of opinions out there.
     
  15. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    Weatherman said it was supposed to be overcast and and about 78 today - He lied, now I have to go find him and throw him a beating! (it was sunny and 90)

    But I went ahead and worked on the car a little today anyway, as I had a little time. I got the gauge pod installed and all the wires pulled through the back of the dash/vent area. I powered all the gauges but on the boost/vacuum is connected. I have to figure out where to get a water temp from and I guess I need a replacement Aluminum transmission pan so I can drill and tap it for the Trans Temp Gauge.

    So observations for today:

    Edelbrock made a provision for a boost tap, BUT did not make a provision in the valve cover to clear the 1/8" NPT to 1/8" ferrel.

    I only pull 8 to 9 inches of Hg Vac I am guessing this is because the car is an Automatic Transmission. My manual MINI and Ford Focus ST both will pull 24 to 25 inches of Mercury on decell if engine braking. Is this normal?

    The stock pulley (3.5") makes about 5 lbs of boost with light throttle and peak at ~14#s with it matted on the highway for a quick second, I was a little shocked, I did not even install the smaller pulley yet, what is that going to make?

    Edited: I forgot I also got the fuel pump sorted - that factory built GT500 Dual Pump wiring harness was absolute garbage! It had pins in the expansion connector that were not seated and the pins in the fuel level part that would not make contact, I finally got it all sorted and the pump locked in with that damn ring and gasket.


    Still need to:

    Install the NOS cooler for the Air to Water
    Hook up the 2 other gauges (water temp and trans temp)
    Get car tuned
    Go to track

    Sorry for crap photo is was super bright and sunny out.


    IMG_1344.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2019
  16. MrAwesome987

    MrAwesome987 forum member

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    14 psi on a stock block? Hope you have an upgrade planned in the future.
     
  17. MrAwesome987

    MrAwesome987 forum member

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    Also, mine has an m122 on it, and on decel with it in gear (manual trans) pulls 18-20 inches of vacuum. This is with Detroit Rocker SC cams. It pulls about 12 inches at idle.
     
  18. c0op3r

    c0op3r Member

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    I know I thought that was a little high also, that is why I was asking, I also did not install the upgrade pulley because I saw that much boost.

    I do have upgrades planned but I dont want to trash this motor either, as I am not ready yet to build out a fully forged motor (gotta save a bit).
     
  19. MrAwesome987

    MrAwesome987 forum member

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    Are you sure the boost gauge is accurate? 14 psi on a 4.6 is like way over 500 whp.
     
  20. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    I have a 2010 automatic, with a small Roush M90 blower (1.48 L). Same 4.6 L eng.
    Boost goes from 4.6 psi... up to 5.8 psi (750 rpm to 6200 rpm). 482/ 470 crank hp / tq.... and 387 / 372 rwhp / rwtq. This is with 7 bar upper grille, K+N air filter, FRPP twin 62mm TB, and JBA ceramic LT's and hi-flo catted H. Also a VMP 94 (no ethanol) octane tune.

    -10 inches HG while cruising. -20 inches HG on de-acceleration. IF I manually shift to 3rd gear on the 5r55s, it will pull -22 inches G on de-acceleration. -10 inches HG at idle.

    With an aeroforce gauge plugged into OBD port, I can easily read the auto tranny temp, plus a ton of other 5r55s auto tranny parameters. No need to drill out pans etc. Aeroforce gauges mount to a SOS A pillar. Roush boost gauge mounts into extreme left air vent.

    It appears with your 5-14 psi boost on the oem big pulley (should be 5-8 psi per edelbrock) and your 8-9 inches of HG (on de-acceleration?) something is amiss. It's like your boost / vac gauge is reading 6 psi too high.

    The 5r55s is not a HD tranny. Per edlebrock, they don't alter anything in their tune for the tranny. With the blower on, the shifts have to be firmer and faster.... or the poor 5r55s won't last very long. VMP fixes all of that, and also allows the user to tweak parameters on the SCT X3 / X4... like shift firmness..and also rpm / speed ...shift points on a shift by shift basis. 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5.

    Once 5r55s is up to temp, it sits at 170 F. Mine would increase from 170-200 F.... in just 5-8 secs with blower on, gas mashed, on the hwy..+ it would also puke ATF. My fix was a JDM engineering catch can for the 5r55s. PA deeper pan was used, 2.1" deeper ( made from 5/8" thick aluminum.. with rows of thick fins). Deeper pan holds an extra 4 qts of ATF. Pan comes with a magnetic drain plug. Also comes with a locking style dipstick, big enough to allow adding ATF, if required. PA pan weighs 10.3 lbs.... vs 3.2 lbs for oem steel pan. Also switched to RP 'max atf' 100% synthetic atf. Also installed a B+M auto tranny cooler ( 3/4" thick, 13K BTU, bar + plate style, cheap from summit / jegs etc)....in series with oem Ford tranny cooler.
    Ok, now the tranny temps only increase to 171-172 F.... doing the same 5-8 sec hwy 'blower on' test.

    The oem 5r55s is the weak link in the chain. You want to avoid 5-3 shifts, 5-2 shifts, 4-2 shifts. Drag racing is fine, with it's 1-2-3-4 upshifts.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019