Need help with clutch install

[Anthony05GT]

BruceH is right. Either that or drop the crossmember and take a long extension with a ratchet and go from the rear of the transmission all the way along the top to the bolts while the trans is hanging down a bit.

You're in for a fight with this if you haven't done it before. I've had these transmissions in and out many times and have my own way of doing it. On cars with stock motor mounts you need to pry the rear of the engine down for easy in/out of the transmission. That's easier if you have a buddy doing the prying or pry it and block it somehow. On cars with poly motor mounts it's tougher. Getting it out is easy, but getting it in requires the right moves. I have to have the tail piece of the transmission down low compared to the bell housing until the input shaft is through the diaphragm, then raise the tail piece and slide it in.

On my car with the twin screw blower keeping the engine from being tilted back I took a big dead blow hammer and pounded the trans tunnel after the transmission was out in the areas that were scratched by the bell housing while it was being removed. Now, when I put it back in it's a cinch. It didn't take much sheet metal movement to really improve installation.

 

[BruceH]

BruceH is right. Either that or drop the crossmember and take a long extension with a ratchet and go from the rear of the transmission all the way along the top to the bolts while the trans is hanging down a bit.

You're in for a fight with this if you haven't done it before. I've had these transmissions in and out many times and have my own way of doing it. On cars with stock motor mounts you need to pry the rear of the engine down for easy in/out of the transmission. That's easier if you have a buddy doing the prying or pry it and block it somehow. On cars with poly motor mounts it's tougher. Getting it out is easy, but getting it in requires the right moves. I have to have the tail piece of the transmission down low compared to the bell housing until the input shaft is through the diaphragm, then raise the tail piece and slide it in.

On my car with the twin screw blower keeping the engine from being tilted back I took a big dead blow hammer and pounded the trans tunnel after the transmission was out in the areas that were scratched by the bell housing while it was being removed. Now, when I put it back in it's a cinch. It didn't take much sheet metal movement to really improve installation.

I'm thinking you are the same Anthony from another forum who took his tranny out about 10+ times adjusting adjustable slaves. You must have it down to a science.

 

[shifter87]

thanks for the pics I might have to try that if I don't get it soon going back out in a few I want the tranny out before I call it a night.

Yeah about the adjustable slaves I was originally looking at them and steered away after I realized the price and the pain in the ass install for something that really isn't necessary.

 

[mustangflanagan]

Yup, I got my kit from BBR...so far im liking it alot

wow this is the same kit but steeda is the distributer they had this in captions.

2005-10 kits are 2 piece kits which include disk and pressure plate only. Uses original hydraulic release bearing.

price was 484

 

[Dreadknought]

On the other side of the coin, just another option; I tryed all of the rotating and lowering and wiggleing in the world and nothing worked. Even went to the ford dealership and talked to the master tech and he said to lower it till it came out. I finally realized that that wont work if you can't get the car high enough off the ground. So what I finally did was put my jack under the middle of the K member and took out all 8 bolts and lowered the k member 2 to 3 inches and the tranny just slid out on its own onto the tranny jack. Wish I would have known that from the beguining. Hope this helps if the other way wont do it for you.

 

[shifter87]

I got the last passenger side bolt from the top in between the AC wires etc using the double wrench method wasn't to bad when I looked at it again didn't need to take out the battery.

although now as you said the trans it not sliding out what a bitch I will get it the motorcycle jack is really close to the edge so its super tight I think I am going to have to add wood and reinstall the cross member for a minute.

 

[shifter87]

I just might have to do that but only if I don't have to remove more pieces of the turbo.

 

[Dreadknought]

Like I said. You should only need 2-3 inches. Good Luck. I know how frustrating it is.

 

[shifter87]

I got the trans about 2-3 inches off the block but now it's sideways and stick going to mess with it tomorrow at least it's off the engine partially.

 

[Anthony05GT]

I'm thinking you are the same Anthony from another forum who took his tranny out about 10+ times adjusting adjustable slaves. You must have it down to a science.

It wasn't 10 times, but between my car, my son's car and some side jobs I've had some of these trannys out. We had a few of those adjustable slaves, 2 McLeods and 1 Ram. I like the McLeod better. I don't have it anymore because of the RST which doesn't over power the stock slave like heavier pressure plates do. The best thing I ever did was the dead blow hammer in the front of the tunnel. You just wack the fucker all around the area where the bell housing goes and shoot some spray paint on all the scratches the bell housing caused by removing the transmission.

Shifter87, you are going to need to either drop the k-member a bit or tilt the engine with a pry bar and hold it with wood blocks. I don't know about you, but I get the car up high enough to lay the transmission on my lap/legs/knees while laying on my back and slip it right back in. I get a couple of bruises, but fuck it. Works for me with no lift. It helps to have a buddy get back where the driveshaft goes and help with the tail end of the transmission,but I don't always have the help.

This is man's work...give the bitches their equal rights and stick them under one of these cars, yeah right!

 

[Redrocket06]

Subscribing, fixing to install my Exedy 500 on jack stands too. Also if you don't want to replace the slave or already bought one you can order the exedy that is for the 99-04 mustangs. It is the same clutch, comes with a pilot bearing and no slave. I confermed this with Exedy and Brenspeed.

Lots of good info so far.

 

[shifter87]

Here's the stuff

Here are some pics of whats going in and what coming out I had to take more pieces out that are not pictured.

Going to get a better bleeder vacuum then going to start up again hopefully get this thing out fix and switched I need to start these break in miles.

 

[shifter87]

Really late start today and after an hour of struggling nothing maybe another inch and the hydraulic line is undone but the trans is still not out so K member it is after me and the wife watch a movie this is starting to piss me off.

 

[shifter87]

Wish I would have re looked at my thread

A picture is worth a thousand words.

The other method involves lowering the k member and jacking the motor from the front to tilt the tranny rearward. Disregard the redneck k member "just in case" supports.

You are right a picture is worth a thousand words if I would have remember to go back to page 1 of the thread when I actually started working on the tranny. I am going to try clocking it since it was already spinning and then if that fails do the K-member method.

 

[BruceH]

Really late start today and after an hour of struggling nothing maybe another inch and the hydraulic line is undone but the trans is still not out so K member it is after me and the wife watch a movie this is starting to piss me off.

After you lower the k member jack the front of the motor up to get a good tilt. Just put a phonebook under the pan or a piece of billet metal along the front bolts of the oilpan and use it as a jacking point. The jack will also keep the motor from tilting forward when the tranny comes off if you have loosened the motor mounts.

 

[Dreadknought]

I found that the weight of the transmission was enough to tilt the motor back on its own. Its funny dropping the K member was a whole lot easier than I thought.

 

[shifter87]

is it only the 4 bolts that hold the k member up

 

[Dreadknought]

8 bolts. 4 per side. They are all in sets of two. Two secure the main body to the frame and 2 secure the "legs" per side. They are all pretty easy to get too if you have an extension.

 

[shifter87]

Gratzi, I will take it out first thing is the morning.

 

[mustangflanagan]

i have the motor out of my car but the trnny is still in an i access the hydraulic line, i wanna replace it with a steal braided line from jpc. if its to much of a pita i will not do it.