New Stuff Here

[spyder7724]

Guys I finally got the aerocatch fasteners in and they will go on the website this week.
normal prices are going to be $109 for non-locking and $129 for the locking version. The kit includes all the components and templates needed for the install. Here's some pics of them and mine already installed...BTW mine are over a year old and still look just like the new ones.
--Also a sneak peak at what the bite bars are going to look like. Only the race version with rod ends for now.

 

[saud alzaabi]

looks good... anypics of them with hood closed ?
and about those bite bars... where do you install them ? ... im interested.. any idea about the prices ? and when will they be out ?


Thanks,

 

[Rygen]

That looks real clean, may have to look into this once I get a new hood.

 

[Hawgman]

I dispise hood pins. That is one of the main reasons I haven't changed hoods yet.

But I will say, those suck less than others.

 

[spyder7724]

I dispise hood pins. That is one of the main reasons I haven't changed hoods yet.

But I will say, those suck less than others.

I'm not a big fan either since for the last 15 years I've had Dzus fasteners holding my cars together(they weren't long enough to use on this hood). I had to use soemthing to stop the hood from lifting at speeds above 70mph. the ram air puts a ton of pressure under the hood making it very unstable above 70mph...and down right scary above 100mph!!
Old school pins don't do it for me. I like that these are composite/aluminum=no rust and there's no pins to loose or lanyards to scratch paint.
I'll find a pic with my hood shut and post it later.
the traction bars just need some additional testing to back up my initial results but they definitely work.

the bars are like an old school traction bar with the benefit of having the ability to adjust preload.
In a nut shell what they do is shorten the instant center(IC) to the front LCA bolt. Normally these cars have an instant center located somehwere in the middle of the car and down low so it causes them to hit soft and squat during launch. Thats why we have the relocation brackets for the LCA's to shorten the IC.
I've been running these for over a year now and they definitely work. My 60' times are always in the mid-low1.70 range with a best of 1.69...thats an N/A auto with a TCI converter not even a manual trans car. when i removed them my 60' times immediately slowed into the low 1.80 range...replaced them and back in the 1.70's again.
Squat is non-existant in fact i now run my drag shocks set on full loose so it hits the tires even harder.
I still have to test them on a couple different combinations (and yes I already have tests set up guys) before I feel real comfortable about my results but I'm pretty sure that they will all respond in a positive way.
These aren't for everyone. If you have already spent the money and upgraded your entire suspension with race pieces(with rod ends) then I wouldn't recommend using these since you can just install the reloc. brackets and get decent results.
Now if you haven't done anything or just have LCA's and a stock or street type urethane upper then this will definitely help. It will eliminate the housing rotation seen with the stock UCA or big urethane bushings.
I actually unhooked my UCA completely while testing these last year and it worked exactly the same with no UCA at all!!!
Guys Please Do Not ever unhook the UCA like I did. I was trying to prove a point but would not dream of using them for that purpose alone. Leaving the stock UCA in place is more of a safety factor than anything else.

 

[don_w]

Squat is non-existant in fact i now run my drag shocks set on full loose so it hits the tires even harder.

That got my attention... please allow me to pick your brain for a moment.

Based on your other comments, I'm not a candidate for the bite bars (BMR spherical/poly LCAs + Steeda relo brackets). I'm still in test mode with my suspension. With the LCA in the middle hole, it's launching harder and I have a lot less squat. I'm running Strange adjustable shocks, with the right one full firm, and the left 3 clicks softer. I still have some squat (and a little roll), just not as much. If I drop the LCA into the bottom hole, it should move the IC back, and provide even more anti-squat. If I do this, are you saying that I can soften the shocks up to hit the tires even harder? I wonder what that would do to the weight transfer.

And yes, I'll leave the UCA connected, too.

 

[Enitalp]

I've been running these for over a year now and they definitely work. My 60' times are always in the mid-low1.70 range with a best of 1.69...thats an N/A auto with a TCI converter not even a manual trans car. when i removed them my 60' times immediately slowed into the low 1.80 range...replaced them and back in the 1.70's again.

I'm in

BTW : what tire do you use ? And what's your best ?

 

[spyder7724]

I'm in

BTW : what tire do you use ? And what's your best ?

I use a bias ply M/T e.t. street with no tubes 26x11.50-15 on 10" wide bogarts.
best 60' ever 1.69 and it's an auto...N/A also.

It really depends on where the IC is in relation the the PR (percentage of rise) and CG(center of gravity). to make the tires hit harder you want a shorter higher IC. this will also give you a little more tire separation in the rear if it's taken to extremes. The perfect setup is one that doesn't waste any more movement than is necessary to enable the car to hook and move forward as quickly as possible. check this website out: http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/Launching_A_Drag_Car.htm
It will explain everything.
It just so happens that the front LCA bolt hole is just about on the imaginary PR line they refer to in the text. my car runs quicker when the front struts are tightened down and the rear shocks are loosened. On my quickest runs my car looks like it's leaving the line like a slug but it's not wasting any energy to move the front end up or squat the rear down. It just moves forward with a small amount of front end rise. If I loosen the struts the front goes up more and quicker but e.t.'s and 60'times suffer greatly. It does help me dial in my reaction times though since it effects how quickly the car reacts.

 

[KIMMER]

Let me know if you need some product testing..lmao. I'd like to see a pic of the hood pins installed on a hood to get a better idea of how they look.

 

[don_w]

I use a bias ply M/T e.t. street with no tubes 26x11.50-15 on 10" wide bogarts.
best 60' ever 1.69 and it's an auto...N/A also.

It really depends on where the IC is in relation the the PR (percentage of rise) and CG(center of gravity). to make the tires hit harder you want a shorter higher IC. this will also give you a little more tire separation in the rear if it's taken to extremes. The perfect setup is one that doesn't waste any more movement than is necessary to enable the car to hook and move forward as quickly as possible. check this website out: http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/Launching_A_Drag_Car.htm
It will explain everything.
It just so happens that the front LCA bolt hole is just about on the imaginary PR line they refer to in the text. my car runs quicker when the front struts are tightened down and the rear shocks are loosened. On my quickest runs my car looks like it's leaving the line like a slug but it's not wasting any energy to move the front end up or squat the rear down. It just moves forward with a small amount of front end rise. If I loosen the struts the front goes up more and quicker but e.t.'s and 60'times suffer greatly. It does help me dial in my reaction times though since it effects how quickly the car reacts.

Thanks for the link Ron. I've been doing a lot of reading on IC and anti-squat, but I still have a ton left to learn. I'm still running the stock front springs/struts and stock rear springs, so there's not much I can do there, but I can still play around with the LCA angle.

BTW, what front struts/springs are you using?

 

[KIMMER]

How are these going to affect DD cars with the handling? I like to hit some curves and hit the strip, so i'm looking for the best of both worlds.

 

[spyder7724]

How are these going to affect DD cars with the handling? I like to hit some curves and hit the strip, so i'm looking for the best of both worlds.

since my car is totally setup for drag strip(no sway bar, soft springs etc.) I didn't notice a change at all. I'll get a street version ready as soon as I find some acceptable poly rod ends or come up with a way to create a small air gap to keep ride quality the same. Mine is a little bouncy but that could be from using a cut stock spring( i sold the ground control stuff a while back).
don:
I now have the modified strange fox body adjustable struts with a granatelli c/o kit using 175lb springs. I may switch to the QA1 struts and sell the fox body ones to my brother for his t-bird. My front suspension is pretty weird but it works well and my tires/wheels don't stick out like most. I had AJE make the A-arms 2" shorter on each side and then made new strut mounts to correct the camber. also had to shorten the ends on the rack unit.
I just couldn't wait for the aftermarket to catch up and make the parts I wanted.

 

[spyder7724]

here's some pics

 

[rayS197]

how about a pic of your entire hood is what i think most woild like to see.
thanks

 

[Johnmichael]

I'd like to see a polished/chrome version of the fasteners.

 

[spyder7724]

I'd like to see a polished/chrome version of the fasteners.

They are a composite material so they can be painted but to get the chrome look they would have to be electroplated and I'm not sure that would hold up to the elements.
I may have mine painted when the car gets some tough up work and a full wrap this winter.
I'll post a pic of the whole hood next.

 

[spyder7724]

how about a pic of your entire hood is what i think most woild like to see.
thanks

here you go.

 

[ZmanM3]

Too bad you didn't have those about 16 months ago. Then again I like my hood pins, they look retro.

 

[Johnmichael]

They are a composite material so they can be painted but to get the chrome look they would have to be electroplated and I'm not sure that would hold up to the elements.
I may have mine painted when the car gets some tough up work and a full wrap this winter.
I'll post a pic of the whole hood next.

Paint matched would be my second choice.