I'll take a diet coke over any other soda anyday. Not because I think it will make me skinny or anything but I think it tastes better haha. I am in the minority, I know.
personally, I can't tell the difference between NXT and Gold Class and any other wax (though I've never used really cheap wax like turtle wax). It just looks shiny to me and I can see myself in the reflection and I'm happy.
I'm more about protection and long lasting application. Looks like the nano stuff is for me.
For you detailers out there, consider me a novice at this. I've used stuff liks Scratch X and Ultimate compound before somewhat successfully by hand. However, my car is 2nd hand and it has a ton of swirling. Would you guys say it is worth investing in a porter cable and all the compounds (mentioned and linked previously in this thread) and then using a nano sealant thing over it?
Perhaps Seer could answer this question best since he has experience, but I'm not looking to make detailing a constant hobby. Would I be better off (taking my severe lack of experience into consideration) just paying a detailer to spruce up my car and then apply nano sealant and just hit it with the refresher spray every now and then? I'd be okay with washing the car every 2-3 weeks and hitting it with some of that spray. Or even applying additional coats over the resin.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Well if you invest in a PC7424-XP, the pads, compound, and polishes, you will always be able to fix any defect your car comes across for about the same price if you paid a detailer. Training investment is about 20 minutes watching how to's. Autogeek has some amazing videos for novice detailer training.
Detailers who do paint correction are a mixed bag. Some do an excellent job, others not so much. I'd beware of those $150 wash, paint correct and wax guys. Theyre basically trying to hit your car with a first pass of polish and a rotary and not carring if they leave buffer trails or not. You'd be amazed at how many hologrammed cars you can see in the summer time.
I'm not a detailer, but I do keep a steady client flow (typically people wanting to get the show car shine) to my house for full corrections, and I usually charge for the type of work I do, since it needs to be worth my time. I work 40-60 hours a week at my actual job, if I am going to invest time working in the nights or weekends it better pay me well. I typically charge between $65-75/hr for detail work, and my work reflects it well (keep in mind I am also using my own personal products). Expect a full multi pass buff job with clay barring to take about 5-7 hours.
Personally I'd buy your own equipment, gain the knowledge, and who knows you may find yourself out having a new hobby and/or a way to make cash on the side too. A Porter Cable doesn't really have the oomph to ruin your paint unless you leave it on a corner of your car in the same exact spot for 5+ minutes while you go drink a beer lol. Any marring you induce can easily be corrected.
Theres plenty of good starter kits that include polishes, pads etc for about mid $200s.
As far as the resin itself. You're looking at $50 for ~40ml (good for one application). Reload sprays are in the $20s, can be applied as often as you like, although most advertised ~4 months of protection. The resin itself, is roughly 18-24 months, depending on your weather conditions.
To apply the resin, you take a damp MF cloth and spray about 2-3 pumps of the resin on it, and spread in a 2'x2' area on your car. Immediately buff off (it's not the easiest to wipe off), then go over the area again.
You can do glass, trim, clear coat, wheels, mouldings etc.
The resin will not wear away with IPA or Dish Detergent. Bird bombs also do not eat through it since it is not a chemical protectorant. The only way to remove it is to buff it off, or let is just wear away. If you check the detail sticky I placed a post at the end that tells about its benefits.