Problem making hp

[silverstang07]

All the issues I have seen with them were generally on stock vehicles (not only mustangs). On a factory engine they can cause a large power loss along with other issues. I would really listen to lito on this one, and risky has been down this road before. The most common failures are vct solenoids and phasers but there are other things that are a little more rare but do happen, such as plugged oil passages to that phaser.

 

[zexystang2]

All the issues I have seen with them were generally on stock vehicles (not only mustangs). On a factory engine they can cause a large power loss along with other issues. I would really listen to lito on this one, and risky has been down this road before. The most common failures are vct solenoids and phasers but there are other things that are a little more rare but do happen, such as plugged oil passages to that phaser.

Well its nice to hear someone say they've seen large power loss. I'm going to put my 10 degree lockouts in this week. Along with shorty tuned headers and steeda control valve delete plates. So hopefully this lets me get to the 600-700 hp range im looking for. I will keep everyone posted once I get dynoed in the next week or two.

 

[zexystang2]

Well I got dynoed tonight. After adding steeda cmcv deletes, 10 degree lockouts and shorty headers I got 687 hp and 765 torque at 18 llbs of boost. I'm still getting a electronic boost controlor since the boost was fluctuating, and I was told it would help to get me a lil more hp.

 

[zexystang2]

 

[BruceH]

Congrats on the newfound power.

 

[zexystang2]

Congrats on the newfound power.

Thanks man. It was deffinately worth taking off work tonight to see it. Cuz the last 4 dynos were heart breaking.

 

[05stroker]

Congrats! Glad to see it made some good power afterall.

 

[maverick46]

I was going to make a new thread but this title fits perfect for me -

short as a story as I can make it - set up as of Dec 14 2011: procharged - 10lb boost - gt500 fuel pump - 60 lb injectors - stock bottom end - stock auto trany with p.i 3200 stall converter - new ford racing intake manifold - 475wrhp -

Dec 15 2011 - stock tranny blows up finally - upgraded to new AODE/4R75W and once piece drive shaft....new wrhp... 379 and first gear poppin and running like shit with hiccups and bogging.

Any ideas?

 

[BruceH]

I was going to make a new thread but this title fits perfect for me -

short as a story as I can make it - set up as of Dec 14 2011: procharged - 10lb boost - gt500 fuel pump - 60 lb injectors - stock bottom end - stock auto trany with p.i 3200 stall converter - new ford racing intake manifold - 475wrhp -

Dec 15 2011 - stock tranny blows up finally - upgraded to new AODE/4R75W and once piece drive shaft....new wrhp... 379 and first gear poppin and running like shit with hiccups and bogging.

Any ideas?

First guess would be a pinched o2 wire or 02 wires reversed.

 

[lito]

I was going to make a new thread but this title fits perfect for me -

short as a story as I can make it - set up as of Dec 14 2011: procharged - 10lb boost - gt500 fuel pump - 60 lb injectors - stock bottom end - stock auto trany with p.i 3200 stall converter - new ford racing intake manifold - 475wrhp -

Dec 15 2011 - stock tranny blows up finally - upgraded to new AODE/4R75W and once piece drive shaft....new wrhp... 379 and first gear poppin and running like shit with hiccups and bogging.

Any ideas?

If everything engine related is working as before, I know is a pain but I would check your new converter.

First guess would be a pinched o2 wire or 02 wires reversed.

Once WOT does not matter, end power should be close.

 

[aleborjas]

YES check the converter.... I changed one on LITO's dyno 200 hp lost thanks to ACC Performance boss hog torque converter, PI converter solved the problem!

 

[maverick46]

i think you guys might be right on with the converter.

I went to my shop today and they took care of the bogging issue *new spark plugs* so shes running and shifting smooth and feels as strong as before but hp # still low at the wheel.

 

[05stroker]

i think you guys might be right on with the converter.

I went to my shop today and they took care of the bogging issue *new spark plugs* so shes running and shifting smooth and feels as strong as before but hp # still low at the wheel.

What converter is in the car now?

Is it a non lock up converter or lock up?

If the car now feels just as strong as before but doesnt show the number on the dyno and you have a non lock up it may very well still show the numbers at the track. I was warned about this when I bought may Lentec with a non lockup converter. The non lockup unit will not show the power on the dyno as the lockup will but will at the track and on the road. This how it was explained to me when looking at the trans I wanted to go with.

This much though? I don't know. Good luck.

 

[aleborjas]

you cold have bit less on the dyno but not 100hp loss!

 

[maverick46]

Thats what FB Performance trans told me too! "it will perform at the track" They had a new converter built to similar specs as the p.i 3200 stall converter I had prior, but my new tranny has a button for me to press to go into lock up. The p.i converter in the stock 5r55 was tuned to lockup in each gear or something like that.

Forgive me, my knowledge is limited when it comes to converters. I guess I'll have to see how she does at the track to see if I'll be satisfied, those are the numbers that are most important.

What converter is in the car now?

Is it a non lock up converter or lock up?

If the car now feels just as strong as before but doesnt show the number on the dyno and you have a non lock up it may very well still show the numbers at the track. I was warned about this when I bought may Lentec with a non lockup converter. The non lockup unit will not show the power on the dyno as the lockup will but will at the track and on the road. This how it was explained to me when looking at the trans I wanted to go with.

This much though? I don't know. Good luck.

 

[lito]

Thats what FB Performance trans told me too! "it will perform at the track" They had a new converter built to similar specs as the p.i 3200 stall converter I had prior, but my new tranny has a button for me to press to go into lock up. The p.i converter in the stock 5r55 was tuned to lockup in each gear or something like that.

Forgive me, my knowledge is limited when it comes to converters. I guess I'll have to see how she does at the track to see if I'll be satisfied, those are the numbers that are most important.

If your dyno is not load controlled this is true, if you can load it enough it will show close numbers, ours is dynapack and I loaded it a lot and nothing, it was slipping, that why I pointed you in that direction. We never made it nearly match wheel and rpm speed.

 

[maverick46]

If your dyno is not load controlled this is true, if you can load it enough it will show close numbers, ours is dynapack and I loaded it a lot and nothing, it was slipping, that why I pointed you in that direction. We never made it nearly match wheel and rpm speed.

You lost me a little with this last comment, please clarify in dummy terms

Please explain the dyno loading. what was slipping? How exactly does it affect rwhp? If power is getting to the wheels but not showing on dyno, I can understand how it can then perform at the track but if the power is now being lost in the drivetrain I don't see how it can run faster. ie you dont see guys running 11 and 10 sec 1/4 on 375 rwhp.

can my motor making the same power if it can run faster1/4 times but not show power to tires? how can i effectively show what the motor is making and what is getting to the ground?

I hope these questions make sense, this might be normal but never had to deal with this kind of situation before. The normal train of thought is...upgrade part...see increase in power.

btw- converter between 2800 - 3200 stall from what freddy brown transmissions tells me. http://www.fbperformance.com/page.asp?get=40&t=NoP