Roadrace To Drag Race Project-Lend A Hand

[Department Of Boost]

Well, it may be time for a big change. I’m looking into building a roadrace car (NA) or renting them from Steve Poe. And that leaves me with my 2007 which has a billion HP, goes around corners, stops. Pretty much a roadrace car with too much power, too much weight and is a lot of work to keep cool. Which makes it pretty much useless for anything but standing mile stuff and burnouts. So I am seriously considering converting my 2007 from “Land Speed Racer” to drag car. Still street car (well legal), but drag car. Something I can take to the strip as well as to local cruise nights, street racing in Mexico, etc.

I’m looking to run at least 8.75’s. Maybe faster in the future.

My first big question is what to do about the trans. I know NOTHING about auto/drag transmissions. I’ve never even driven one. I like the idea of running the T-56 Magnum that is in the car. But I don’t want to deal with clutch problems and the ability to launch the auto with the added consistency is appealing. Plus, I can just put the T-56 in my roadrace car, it’s not like it will go unused.

I’m thinking I want something of the three speed with OD variety. I don’t know much about the manual valve body thing. I’m guessing that means I would still be changing gears all the time? Is there an option where I get to bang it through the gears when racing, but just stick it in “D” when cruising around? And of course I will want a trans brake. And how do you start picking a converter? And lastly, it would need to be bulletproof. How much does something like this cost? Is what I want a “thing”? Fill me in guys.

Then another question is do I go for a 8.50 legal cage (easy), or straight to a 8.49 and under cage (lots of work)? What does it take to convert from 8.50 to 8.49. Is it just more bars or a completely different cage?

I’m thinking 9”, but what “locker”? No spool please.

Suspension will be your standard lightweight tubular stuff with “Rod ends”. I haven’t decided on dampers yet. Probably something of the adjustable coilover nature.

I’ll go with bigs and littles of some sort. Those Darkstars or something. What’s the biggest tire you can stuff under the back? Probably drag radials.

And I’ll need some of those trick lightweight Aerospace brakes or something. Anyone run those?

Help me out here guys. This is really new for me. I need to figure out what is involved here and if what I want to do is possible.

Thanks!

 

[BMR Tech]

For the trans, contact BTS and chat with Brian about their 4R100.

If I was building a GT500 for drag purpose, and wanted OD....that is the only trans I would even consider.

It will take some massaging to get it to fit, and you will need to run a PCS Controller. Brian can, and will walk you through all of that. The PCS Controllers are sweet, you will basically have full control over the trans via laptop. Easy peasy.

As for the rear axle assembly, the 8.8, if braced and built properly - will handle 8 second passes with an auto. If you are converting to a 9", you will want to contact Strange, Moser, and whoever else offers an S197 Solution....and get one of those "bolt-in" offerings.

Word of advice on the 9"....you will want to either grab a 9" specific UCA....or modify/make one to work. I think we are the only company who offers one....but once you get it together, you will likely see exactly what you need to do. Raise the rear portion to clear that massive 9" center section. Strange, Moser, etc....will be able to assist you with your center section guts. That is the part that gets pricey.

I would go for the 8.50 cage. If you have a goal of running a sanctioned event, then go 8.49 or quicker set-up....but an 8.50 cage seems to be the best choice for you, IMHO.

Suspension - personally, I would go with something comparable to a Santhuff front C/O set-up in the front. In the rear, honestly....I would weld adjustable perches to the existing perch locations....and grab some Viking Performance springs of various lengths and rates to play with. 150lb/in int he back, is my vote for starters. For the shocks, grab the Viking Double adjustable pieces. I've got several 1.1X and 1.2X sixty foot guys with those. $175/each - can't beat them.

As for the rear tire....you can go pretty damn big. A 325 shouldnt be an issue. That said, I'd run the good ole proven 275/60 Pro Radial from MT.

Brakes - I'd just grab the Strange pieces. They are all going to save a substantial amount of weight.

Good luck. Car sounds like its going to get down and dirty.

 

[Department Of Boost]

For the trans, contact BTS and chat with Brian about their 4R100.

If I was building a GT500 for drag purpose, and wanted OD....that is the only trans I would even consider.

It will take some massaging to get it to fit, and you will need to run a PCS Controller. Brian can, and will walk you through all of that. The PCS Controllers are sweet, you will basically have full control over the trans via laptop. Easy peasy.

As for the rear axle assembly, the 8.8, if braced and built properly - will handle 8 second passes with an auto. If you are converting to a 9", you will want to contact Strange, Moser, and whoever else offers an S197 Solution....and get one of those "bolt-in" offerings.

Word of advice on the 9"....you will want to either grab a 9" specific UCA....or modify/make one to work. I think we are the only company who offers one....but once you get it together, you will likely see exactly what you need to do. Raise the rear portion to clear that massive 9" center section. Strange, Moser, etc....will be able to assist you with your center section guts. That is the part that gets pricey.

I would go for the 8.50 cage. If you have a goal of running a sanctioned event, then go 8.49 or quicker set-up....but an 8.50 cage seems to be the best choice for you, IMHO.

Suspension - personally, I would go with something comparable to a Santhuff front C/O set-up in the front. In the rear, honestly....I would weld adjustable perches to the existing perch locations....and grab some Viking Performance springs of various lengths and rates to play with. 150lb/in int he back, is my vote for starters. For the shocks, grab the Viking Double adjustable pieces. I've got several 1.1X and 1.2X sixty foot guys with those. $175/each - can't beat them.

As for the rear tire....you can go pretty damn big. A 325 shouldnt be an issue. That said, I'd run the good ole proven 275/60 Pro Radial from MT.

Brakes - I'd just grab the Strange pieces. They are all going to save a substantial amount of weight.

Good luck. Car sounds like its going to get down and dirty.

I'll be needing a whole bunch of red tubes for under the car.

I'll check out that stuff you mentioned above. Thanks!

 

[BMR Tech]

Anytime.

If you ever have any questions for me, let me know. I gotta earn my paycheck.

Good luck!

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Make sure you PM me before you sell any road racing related components lol.

 

[irishpwr46]

if you go with the 9", I have an aluminum driveshaft for it

 

[Sky Render]

If you keep the 8.8" axle, get adjustable mounts/brackets for both upper and lower control arms to have adjustable instant centers and anti-squat geometries. Heck, you should do that regardless of what axle you have.

And we have now reached the end of my knowledge of how to go fast in a straight line.

Sent from my toilet using Tapatalk

 

[Department Of Boost]

If you keep the 8.8" axle, get adjustable mounts/brackets for both upper and lower control arms to have adjustable instant centers and anti-squat geometries. Heck, you should do that regardless of what axle you have.

And we have now reached the end of my knowledge of how to go fast in a straight line.

Sent from my toilet using Tapatalk

Good point, I didn't think of that. I'll probably be going with a "fabbed" 9" anyway. What's a little more fabbing? The 8.8 I have right now has a T2R in it and lightweight axles. No need to screw that up, I'll just put it in the RR car.

Thanks

Make sure you PM me before you sell any road racing related components lol.

That stuff will be going on the RR car.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

That stuff will be going on the RR car.

Haha fair enough!

 

[psfracer]

What is your setup engine wise? How heavy is the car?

 

[Sky Render]

Good point, I didn't think of that. I'll probably be going with a "fabbed" 9" anyway. What's a little more fabbing? The 8.8 I have right now has a T2R in it and lightweight axles. No need to screw that up, I'll just put it in the RR car.

Thanks

The T2R will grenade on hard launches with slicks:

I recommend an Eaton Locker.

 

[v6tungsten]

Nice air cooled rear end...

 

[Department Of Boost]

What is your setup engine wise? How heavy is the car?

A big 3v with a 3.4L Whipple. And if that's not big enough I'll put a 4.0 or 4.5L Whipple on it. Somewhere in the 1200-1400hp range. IDK what it will weigh in drag race trim. I'll guess 3400#.

I'll probably be looking to see if I can make it the fastest 3v out there. And still street driven.

 

[psfracer]

Ok, based on that:

9 inch rearend. I got mine from Currie as they were local, but Strange makes a nice one to. You can get both with all of the stock suspension mounting points.

I have strange brakes all around, they work well for me and I would recommend to anyone.

Rear tire, the M/T Pro 275 seems to able to handle quite a bit of power.

Shocks, once again I have Strange DA shocks/coil overs in the rear, they work well and not that expensive compared to others out there.

I would be inclined to just go with the 8.50 cage first--however, @3400 pounds and 1400 hp you will be well below 8.50--so not sure. The advantage of doing the 25.5 cage is you only tear apart your whole interior once.

I did the 8.50 cage first, and will be going back to a 25.5 only when I need to. When I had the 8.50 cage built, I mentioned the fact that I would upgrade to a 25.5 later--so knowing this they built the 8.50 cage with the right diameter and wall tubing. To upgrade to the 25.5, I got an estimate of $1500.

The X door bars
Rocker bars
Short bar from rocker to subframe
Roof cross bar
Complete funny car cage
No X under car unless fire wall has been altered

Here are some pics of a typical 25.5--as long as you are under 3600lbs

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/install/must/25-5cage.aspx

The 25.5 will make it a pain in the ass to drive on the street (as you probably know), and dangerous, as your head will be surrounded by bars, unless you plan on strapping in and wearing a helmet.....


Personally, if you really do end up making 1400 @ 3400lbs, I think a PG would serve you well for a few reasons. 1) its only 95lbs, 2) you can get power glides with aftermarket SFI rated cases eliminating the need for trans blankets and shields, 3) it will be much easier to manage your short times with the power glide 1.80 first gear, especially with the whipple and 4) very strong, reliable, and you can obviously get them set up with trans brake.

That being said I think a TH400 with a 2.10 first gear would work good to.

 

[crownaviation]

Edit... freggin double post

 

[crownaviation]

^^^ did not know about the x bar under the car with modded firewall. That may be a problem if using anything bigger than 3.4 Whipple. 4.0 may..May fit but those blowers get longer towards the firewall. That makes it a problem with the r spec manifold and the 3v anything bigger than a 3.4 evidently will require firewall mods. Nobody has tried it yet tho

 

[Department Of Boost]

^^^ did not know about the x bar under the car with modded firewall. That may be a problem if using anything bigger than 3.4 Whipple. 4.0 may..May fit but those blowers get longer towards the firewall. That makes it a problem with the r spec manifold and the 3v anything bigger than a 3.4 evidently will require firewall mods. Nobody has tried it yet tho

If they fit in a GT500 without modding the firewall (they do) than they will fit on the 3v with an R-Spec. The blower sits slightly further forward on the 3v.

And I'm not even sure those are considered firewalls. They aren't even there on the cobra Jet.

And I may just go crazy, mount a TB right to the backside of the blower case and get my intake air from the back side opening on a cowl hood.

Elbows, we don't need no stinkin elbows!

Ok, based on that:

9 inch rearend. I got mine from Currie as they were local, but Strange makes a nice one to. You can get both with all of the stock suspension mounting points.

I have strange brakes all around, they work well for me and I would recommend to anyone.

Rear tire, the M/T Pro 275 seems to able to handle quite a bit of power.

Shocks, once again I have Strange DA shocks/coil overs in the rear, they work well and not that expensive compared to others out there.

I would be inclined to just go with the 8.50 cage first--however, @3400 pounds and 1400 hp you will be well below 8.50--so not sure. The advantage of doing the 25.5 cage is you only tear apart your whole interior once.

I did the 8.50 cage first, and will be going back to a 25.5 only when I need to. When I had the 8.50 cage built, I mentioned the fact that I would upgrade to a 25.5 later--so knowing this they built the 8.50 cage with the right diameter and wall tubing. To upgrade to the 25.5, I got an estimate of $1500.

The X door bars
Rocker bars
Short bar from rocker to subframe
Roof cross bar
Complete funny car cage
No X under car unless fire wall has been altered

Here are some pics of a typical 25.5--as long as you are under 3600lbs

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/install/must/25-5cage.aspx

The 25.5 will make it a pain in the ass to drive on the street (as you probably know), and dangerous, as your head will be surrounded by bars, unless you plan on strapping in and wearing a helmet.....


Personally, if you really do end up making 1400 @ 3400lbs, I think a PG would serve you well for a few reasons. 1) its only 95lbs, 2) you can get power glides with aftermarket SFI rated cases eliminating the need for trans blankets and shields, 3) it will be much easier to manage your short times with the power glide 1.80 first gear, especially with the whipple and 4) very strong, reliable, and you can obviously get them set up with trans brake.

That being said I think a TH400 with a 2.10 first gear would work good to.

I was hoping you were going to chime in. I'm going to have to take the above all in and do some thinking about what I really want to do here. This transmission/gearing thing is going to drive me nuts I think. I do know one thing. I have to be able to go 80mph down the freeway at under 3000rpm. I wonder if I can do that without an OD???

The cage thing is an issue too. First and foremost it will be a street car. I'll probably drive it to the track (a whole 8 miles). But if I want to do something like the Drag Tour some day I want to be able to do it. But at some point I would like to have it the fastest 3v on the planet, and that means bottom 8's. Which means a 8.49 cage. Grrrrrrrrrrr.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I was hoping you were going to chime in. I'm going to have to take the above all in and do some thinking about what I really want to do here. This transmission/gearing thing is going to drive me nuts I think. I do know one thing. I have to be able to go 80mph down the freeway at under 3000rpm. I wonder if I can do that without an OD???



The cage thing is an issue too. First and foremost it will be a street car. I'll probably drive it to the track (a whole 8 miles). But if I want to do something like the Drag Tour some day I want to be able to do it. But at some point I would like to have it the fastest 3v on the planet, and that means bottom 8's. Which means a 8.49 cage. Grrrrrrrrrrr.

If you're going for fastest 3v in the world, I imagine you'll be giving up any chance at it being street-able.

 

[Department Of Boost]

If you're going for fastest 3v in the world, I imagine you'll be giving up any chance at it being street-able.

If those guys are running high 6's and doing Drag Week.....towing a trailer! I can run some bottom 8's and drive it on the street.

There is no way I will make it so un street friendly that I will drive it less than I drive it now.

As long as it won't over heat (easy). Will take gas out of the pump (I will run it on e85 but have a pulley and a tune for 93 in case I get stuck). I can drive it in the rain (it's scary now). And it won't have to spin 4000rpm to go down the freeway it's a street car.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Street able 3v in the 8s seems doable, but setting the world record for the fastest 3v? What even is the record right now?

Are those guys using 3v motors that are towing to the event? I was under the impression the fastest 3v cars were trailered to the strip.