roush SC..

deepimpact

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After my header install she is ready for forced induction I wanted to do the hellion but I don't wanna jack with headers on the 2013 ever again. Any way my question is what are you guys opinion on them I also seen the vmp is that one better? And mainly I drive this care to work 30 miles round trip and then it is parked except for on the weekend if I go to the track I want the hp and tq but would the stage 3 be to much for how much I drive it I wanna smoke the zl1s on the hwy hahaha. 7k is what I can blow so y not go all out.
 

Pentalab

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Get the VMP TVS-2300 Gen-2 kit. The blower casing and elbow are all one unit. It's the most eff TVS-2300 on the market. In terms of pecking order for the various TVS-2300 blowers, it goes like this:

VMP-TVS-2300... Gen-2
2013-2014 GT-500 2300
VMP TVS-2300... Gen-1
Roush TVS-2300

The vmp gen 2 tvs has 2+ psi more boost for a given pulley diam vs their older Gen-1. Their gen-1 blower has way lower discharge (pre-ic) vs the Roush...like 50+ deg F cooler. You can go nuts with the power, like 575-700 crank hp, but you had better have the suspension + brakes + tires, etc to handle it all. It can easily get away on you, and become a handful.

VMP- stage 1 kit http://vmptuning.com/50l-superchargers/stage150gen2/
VMP- stage 2 kit http://vmptuning.com/50l-superchargers/stage250gen2/
VMP- stage 3 kit http://vmptuning.com/50l-superchargers/stage350gen2/

The stage 1 or 2 kit is more than ample. 8-10 psi boost is plenty for street /hwy use. The stage 2 includes the heavy duty HE..with dual fans. The bigger twin 67mm TB is an option as is the fuel pump booster. Then u at least get the sct x4 hand held tuner..with the tune already loaded into it. With the tuner, u can tweak anything..or have vmp email u a new tune. and swap it into the x4..then load into your obd.

With roush kit u are limited..and no X4. VMP will tune for your LT's, type gas used 91/93 or both, etc.
 

eighty6gt

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I'm highly dubious of any IAT-related differences when it comes to top mount TVS blowers. Get whatever is cheapest, run the stock HE, and think about a killer chiller. You'll want a X3/X4 so Lito can tune your car.
 

bcb06gt

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I'm highly dubious of any IAT-related differences when it comes to top mount TVS blowers. Get whatever is cheapest, run the stock HE, and think about a killer chiller. You'll want a X3/X4 so Lito can tune your car.

1. I didn't think Lito tuned the 4V cars, unless he started
2. I would think the tune from VMP would be pretty good
3. A PD blower is all about keeping the charge temp down. I would run a better HE, unless the kit came with a damn good one.
 

Pentalab

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I'm highly dubious of any IAT-related differences when it comes to top mount TVS blowers. Get whatever is cheapest, run the stock HE, and think about a killer chiller. You'll want a X3/X4 so Lito can tune your car.

Lito doesn't tune a 4v. The killer chiller takes several minutes to do anything. Turn the blower on, and the AC is temp disabled. The killer chiller is not functioning at all, while flying down the hwy or strip..with blower on.
However, they will eventually get the ic coolant temps down to 40 deg F..which is pretty cold.

The gen1+2 blowers have it over the roush blower. PRE-ic, the blower discharge temps are way down vs roush. So just another way to deal with the problem..... like don't generate as much heat to begin with. That phase 2 kit that vmp sells comes with the twin fan HE. Use 100% distilled water and water wetter in summer time..+ the twin fan HE..and I don't think one will have iat issues..even at red lights and between runs at the strip.

If it's all hwy driving, the he with the fans is a moot point. You will have plenty of air through the he at hwy speeds.
 

stkjock

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killer chiller - smoke and mirrors IMO
 

deepimpact

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Very informal guys thanks alot and I def have the tires for it as for brakes just about to upgrade and suspension I just have drag shocks so that's more upgrades I already have one piece ds..

As for power I'd like to hit 575 to maybe 600 rwhp ..

I'm starting to lean to this vmp I've been researching it quite a bit now.
 

BadPiggy

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600RWHP today...

800RWHP tomorrow...

1000RWHP by Friday...

You'll get bored with 600RWHP pretty quick.
You need to get the biggest bang for your buck in the beginning...and the TVS ain't it.
 

REDS197

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TVS is plenty for up to 8-850. If you do get bored easy and build the motor a bigger blower or turbo is a better option.

Stick or Auto? A stick is more fun with a TVS. Auto and turbo is a awesome combo.
 

skwerl

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VMP TVS will be plenty to max out your stock block. They are getting 625 or more out of the stock 5.0 pretty easily.
 

eighty6gt

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friend had the KC on his TVS cobalt. Worked like a damn. That car was mind boggling.

Anyway, did not notice this was a 2013 car. Justin might be your best bet.
 

deepimpact

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That was my other concern was stock block I didn't wanna go over bored I just love the tq and hp I'm sure it will be fine I rarely go to the track I just want the power for when I need it I have it all the time instead of filling bottles up no offense to the nitrous guys just my preference.
 

Pentalab

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That was my other concern was stock block I didn't wanna go over bored I just love the tq and hp I'm sure it will be fine I rarely go to the track I just want the power for when I need it I have it all the time instead of filling bottles up no offense to the nitrous guys just my preference.

500-600 rwhp is more than ample for DD city / hwy use. Any more than that, and the car will be a handful to drive. Want more tq, use LT's. You want something that is reliable..and dependable....and conservative. I wouldn't go north of 600rwhp. Keep it <600rwhp.
 

deepimpact

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Very true pentalab I see what ya your saying. And I have 1 7/8 lts on the car I was preparing for forced induction. Thanks again for helping out thoughts and pros and cons.
 

Riptide

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VMP TVS will be plenty to max out your stock block. They are getting 625 or more out of the stock 5.0 pretty easily.
In terms of trap speed what is the typical "safe" limit on these cars?
 

beefcake

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any of the power adders will treat you good on these cars.

we love the Paxton kits, but the hellion is a popular option, the roush is a great kit as well

we can help you out with any of those
 

justinsstang

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There's tons of options, but PD blowers IMO add up to annoying traction problems on the street. Don't get me wrong, instant torque is fun... but spinning isn't winning. And whether it's on the street or the track it's just much harder to get PD cars to hook which ruled them out as an option for me.

Are you manual or auto?

If you're a manual car that's never going to build the block, get a vortech.

If there's a chance you'll build the motor and not go way overboard get a paxton.

If there's a chance you'll ever just go nuts with a insane motor build and push limits get a CPR or JPC single turbo kit to grow in to.
These kits are viable for all options because well... turbos are awesome. Even if you don't want to build the block, you could easily still grab one of these turbos and keep it at stock block level. The reason I mentioned vortech/paxton before turbos is cost. The vortech/paxtons can do just as well at those power levels as the turbo and for substantially less. Don't quote me on this but I think the entry kit to both vortech and paxton is around $4200 without fuel/tune.



If you're an auto car go CPR or JPC single. Nothing beats an auto with a turbo. There's also twin kits out there, but there's really nothing a twin can do that a single can't, and it's just added cost for no reason.



And then on the other hand, don't buy an on3 kit unless you can do light fabrication and don't mind a 40 hour install. Otherwise the on3 kit is actually a very good value with decent components. I would run it if I didn't mind the fabrication. In the end I went with a supercharger because the install was just so much easier.

Also don't buy an EDP kit because apparently the owner doesn't care that people are losing boost after 5k rpm.
I know two people with the EDP single and 2/2 are dropping boost, not to mention the countless other threads on other forums and posts popping up on facebook pages about the issue.


I personally have a paxton and am having a lot of fun with it.
As far as smoking ZL1s I left one with bolt ons by several cars a couple weeks ago on the interstate.
Also beat a 2014 EDP single mustang, have videos of that one.
Also am ahead of a 2013 mustang with a 2.3 whipple. Haven't raced this guy but I know all of these guys, and this guy lost to the ZL1 which I beat.

In the end you really can't go too wrong. They will all be fun and will be way better than no boost, but some kits will obviously be better than others (like CPR vs EDP) and careful planning for your future goals is always the best idea.
 

Department Of Boost

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There's tons of options, but PD blowers IMO add up to annoying traction problems on the street. Don't get me wrong, instant torque is fun... but spinning isn't winning. And whether it's on the street or the track it's just much harder to get PD cars to hook which ruled them out as an option for me.

I can flat foot our S550 with 550 PD blown HP and 3.73's (which is way too short for gearing) in 2nd and it will not spin the tires. It will not spin on the 2nd to 3rd gear shift either. Street/cornering performance tires, not drag radials. It will of course light them up in 1st. But it did that stock.

If I want to light them up all I have to do is fan the clutch. But if I want it hooked up, it's hooked up.

Never one across all the PD cars I have flogged on (and that is a lot of them) have I ever had traction "problems".

IMO if someone has traction "problems" with a PD blower they are running tires that are too small and/or they need a driver mod.
 

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