Shifting Problems

[Ethan Bateman]

Car info- mutha thumbr cams, cai, x pipe, mufflers, bama tuned, Ford Racing lowering springs.

While driving the car normally shifts under 3-3500k it shifts smooth and as fast as you can change them. Then at the track or goofing off shifts above probably 4K it’s super stiff and asks like it’s locking you out, then when you finally get it into gear it feels like you are about to break the shifter handle and it’s a loud clunk sound.

I’ve changed trans fluid, with some suppose to help the syncos. But that’s all I’ve done. Any ideas what it could be hopefully not anything major

 

[07 Boss]

Tranny is shifting under load. There are some torque limiters that you can get which will help keep the motor and tranny lined up properly with the chassis. This will help rectify the issue of having a remote shifter. You could always upgrade your shifter too.

 

[1950StangJump$]

I would be tempted to try a new shifter. MGW is hands-down the best -- but not cheap.

In the end, the TR3650 will always be a clunky, slow shifting transmission IMO . . . but the MGW makes it feel much more precise. Given the issue you describe, the MGW might be the answer. You can adjust the throw from 15% shorter than stock to 50%.

Not sure what fluid you used, but assuming you used Merc V, you could always try Synchromesh to see if that changes anything.

 

[rocky61201]

The blowfish racing shifter bracket, combined with any good aftermarket shifter will get you into gear every time, but be prepared for the extra noise and vibrations. Anything you do beyond that to include new motor mounts and torque limiters will help too.

This forum has been around since 2006 and there are dozens of threads on making the tr3650 shift better. Use the search feature and do your research to find out what most previous owners have done successfully. Then make your decision on what you want to upgrade.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I would be tempted to try a new shifter. MGW is hands-down the best

It was until the Barton shifter came along. I'd say the MGW and the Barton are equally as good so you can't go wrong either way.

 

[Ethan Bateman]

It was until the Barton shifter came along. I'd say the MGW and the Barton are equally as good so you can't go wrong either way.

Alright cool, I’ll look into getting one soon.

 

[cgornowich]

Try this:

http://www.jpcracing.com/jpc-tremec-magnum-xl-and-drive-shaft-package-2005-2014-gt-gt500-boss/

No more shifting problems. Everything else is a bandaid.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Try this:

http://www.jpcracing.com/jpc-tremec-magnum-xl-and-drive-shaft-package-2005-2014-gt-gt500-boss/

No more shifting problems. Everything else is a bandaid.

The stock TR3650 is rated to 390lbft of flywheel torque (343rwtq) so N/A bolt-ons aren't an issue, but forced induction is another matter and a tranny upgrade e.g. T56 XL Magnum, TKO 500, TR6060 should be considered for that.

 

[rocky61201]

Like I said, get the blowfish racing shifter bracket. I've had mine for a couple years and I can't remember ever being locked out or missing a shift. Now if you manage to break the transmission then consider upgrading to the T56 magnum because most likely your clutch is coming apart at the same time as the TR3650.

Before I had the blowfish bracket I got locked out regularly, and this one time I tried to force a 3d gear WOT upshift around 6500rpm. I was racing and refused to lift off or stop trying to force it into gear, lol. When it "unforced" itself and went into gear it was because the clutch and TOB were in a half dozen pieces. Coasted to the side of the road and waited for a tow. The only thing my transmission needed was new synchros. To be fair that transmission already has around 120k miles on it.

PS - I also have the UPR billet shifter and it's about 8 years old. It sounds like a rattle snake above 4k because its well....8 years old and all billet and the blowfish bracket makes sure every little vibration goes right into shifter. And I don't care how much my GF bitches about the noise.

 

[1950StangJump$]

My 3650 hasn't locked me out, though I'm always looking for the next "better part" to make the car better.

Absent $5k for the Magnum, the Blowfish bracket is intriguing. If I "knew" it would make an improvement to overall shift characteristics, I'd try it. But, $300 is alot of money to not know what improvements might be seen.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Try this:

http://www.jpcracing.com/jpc-tremec-magnum-xl-and-drive-shaft-package-2005-2014-gt-gt500-boss/

http://www.jpcracing.com/jpc-tremec-magnum-xl-and-drive-shaft-package-2005-2014-gt-gt500-boss/
I'd like that option a whole lot better if you could get the 0.80 and 0.62 overdrives with the 2.66/1.78/1.30/1.00 gearset.


Norm

 

[fdjizm]

I had this problem, the only fix was a t56 magnum.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Tranny is shifting under load. There are some torque limiters that you can get which will help keep the motor and tranny lined up properly with the chassis. This will help rectify the issue of having a remote shifter. You could always upgrade your shifter too.

Best thing is to get rid of the stock remote shifter altogether and get an aftermarket tranny-mounted short throw shifter such as the Barton or MGW.

 

[Pentalab]

I'd like that option a whole lot better if you could get the 0.80 and 0.62 overdrives with the 2.66/1.78/1.30/1.00 gearset.


Norm

Agreed, but in either case, you end up with a 6 speed manual..with 2 x semi useless overdrives. A .5 or .63 6th gear is a fuel mileage thing. .5 6th gear ? That equates to just 2 k rpm @ 100 mph..with a 27" tall rear tire and 3.31 rear differential gear....and 1 krpm @ 50 mph..and 1.5 krpm @ 75 mph.

They still have all 6 gears..in the wrong ratio's.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

The only thing wrong with the ratios of the 5-speed TR3650 is that there's a big gap between the 1.00:1 4th and 0.68:1 5th. It could have done with a 0.82:1 5th gear to bridge the gap with a 0.68:1 6th.

 

[46addict]

An .82 5th would have definitely required a 6th gear for guys who like a short rear end ratio. Hence the TR6060/T56. The .68 5th in the 3650 allows people to run 4.10s or 4.30s and still have a streetable car that can be practical on the highway.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Agreed, but in either case, you end up with a 6 speed manual..with 2 x semi useless overdrives. A .5 or .63 6th gear is a fuel mileage thing. .5 6th gear ? That equates to just 2 k rpm @ 100 mph..with a 27" tall rear tire and 3.31 rear differential gear....and 1 krpm @ 50 mph..and 1.5 krpm @ 75 mph.

They still have all 6 gears..in the wrong ratio's.

They'd work somewhat better with 3.55's and 25.9" tall tires , better still with 3.73's and 25.9's , and perhaps best of all (for my uses anyway) with 4.10's and anything from 25.9 to about 26.3, maybe even down to 25.7 .

0.74 to 0.50 is just too big of a step to ask of a NA 4.6L going into top gear from next to top - about the same as the 1.00 to 0.68 in the TR3650.


FWIW, I'm pondering all this stuff right now, as I think I'm going to swap out the T-lok for a T2R . . . and maybe change the axle gears while that's apart . . . with a look ahead to possibly changing out the transmission.


Norm

 

[cgornowich]

My T-56 has 4th as 1:1, 5th is 0.80, and 6th is 0.62. Matched with a 3.73 it's perfect for me. 2,500 rpm in 4th is 53 mph, 5th is 66 mph and 6th is 85. Much better than the old 5 speed, and it always goes into the gear you select... Just my 2 cents

 

[cavero]

My T-56 has 4th as 1:1, 5th is 0.80, and 6th is 0.62. Matched with a 3.73 it's perfect for me. 2,500 rpm in 4th is 53 mph, 5th is 66 mph and 6th is 85. Much better than the old 5 speed, and it always goes into the gear you select... Just my 2 cents

I kind of wish I'd stayed with the standard 2.97 gear set (.80 and .62 5th & 6th). I had 5th and 6th swapped in from the 2.67 transmission, so the gears are 2.97/2.1/1.46/1.0/0.74/0.50. 1st through 5th are great (N/A 4.6L, 3.73's, and stock sized tires), but 6th is such a huge drop. It's pretty much I can't use 6th below about 65mph (1500 RPM). It's a highway gear; if I need to pass someone or go up a steep hill I've got to downshift to 5th. But I can get 26-28 mpg on the highway again. Haven't had that since '08.

At least I didn't go with the whole set of 2.67 ratios. Luckily D&D talked me out of that. Car would've been a dog

 

[Norm Peterson]

I kind of wish I'd stayed with the standard 2.97 gear set (.80 and .62 5th & 6th). I had 5th and 6th swapped in from the 2.67 transmission, so the gears are 2.97/2.1/1.46/1.0/0.74/0.50. 1st through 5th are great (N/A 4.6L, 3.73's, and stock sized tires), but 6th is such a huge drop. It's pretty much I can't use 6th below about 65mph (1500 RPM). It's a highway gear; if I need to pass someone or go up a steep hill I've got to downshift to 5th. But I can get 26-28 mpg on the highway again. Haven't had that since '08.

At least I didn't go with the whole set of 2.67 ratios. Luckily D&D talked me out of that. Car would've been a dog

That ↑↑↑ is exactly why anybody looking to change either axle gears or transmissions should think very carefully what it is that they really want, what they're actually going to use, what they really don't want, and what doesn't really matter.

The 2.66 low gearset is intended road course driving, where launching from a full stop is not a priority, but where not having that wide 1.46 to 1.0 step from 3rd to 4th probably would be.


Norm