Smoke after breathers installed normal?

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Just be aware that you'll only have one port for the crankcase to vent pressure on the passenger side from until you remove the PCV valve..
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Also have the oil cap breather.

I forgot about the oil cap breather, so you'll have at least 2 ports in which to vent from until removing the PCV valve.. Once you remove the valve, then you'll have all 3 ports for venting the crankcase..
 

o2sys

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With the oil cap breather and switching from 5w-20 to 5w-30 I'm not seeing excessive smoke as I used to get at red lights.

When I open the hood I still see some vapors come out but no where as much as it used too.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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When running forced induction, it's recommended to switch from 5w20 over to 5w30 anyhow as increased cylinder pressure causes thermal breakdown of oil more rapidly due from additional heat/friction..
 
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o2sys

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Ok the oil filler breather has to go. Too much oil is coming out of it. Saw it on the dyno it spills oil everywhere after letting off froM WOT.
 

JUSTA3V

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I tried a few different brands of cans as well as breathers. Nothing worked good enough for my application so I had one custom built.

Works 100 percent





 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Ok the oil filler breather has to go. Too much oil is coming out of it. Saw it on the dyno it spills oil everywhere after letting off froM WOT.

Did you remove the PCV valve before installing the oil filter breather ? if you didn't, crankcase pressure will build up pushing oil out of the passenger side and oil filler breathers due from the PCV valve not being able to open..

Also if you removed the oil filler breather's baffles, there's no longer anything to stop the oil from coming out of it..
 

07 Boss

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Ok the oil filler breather has to go. Too much oil is coming out of it. Saw it on the dyno it spills oil everywhere after letting off froM WOT.

That's weird. I don't have any oil at all coming out of anywhere. My oil cap filter housing has a baffle in it. Like Red SC said, did you remove the off valve?
 

o2sys

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No haven't had time to take out the pcv out of the driver side cam cover.

My oil breather has a baffle too plus I put some steel mesh inside the filter.
 

JUSTA3V

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My PCV remains in my drivers valve cover.

I'm pushing 20 PSI. no blow by. I do get steam venting out of the filters on colder days. But that's it.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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No haven't had time to take out the pcv out of the driver side cam cover.

My oil breather has a baffle too plus I put some steel mesh inside the filter.

I don't quite remember if your running a PD or centri type blower, however if your running a centri blower, they don't have bypass valves like a PD type has..

Therefore if the PCV valve has not been removed, your crankcase pressure is going to increase more by running breathers, leaving only the passenger side and oil cap breathers to allow crankcase vapors to escape from..

Until your finally able to remove the PCV valve, I would recommend going back to the factory PCV setup or install an inline one way check valve in addition to running the oil cap and valve cover breathers in order to relieve CC pressure, especially if your running a centri type blower..
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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Images of Bob's oil separator as requested via PM..

There is no oil on the driver's side breather because there is no vacuum source opening the PCV baffle in the driver's side cam cover.

One catch can needs to go between the driver's side cam cover port and the intake manifold vacuum port. A second catch can should be used between the passenger side port and the intake tube if you want to keep oil away from the intake tracts.

Here's images of the Bob's oil separator as you requested.. I'm also still selling it if your interested ?
 

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Mustang dog

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Unless you intend on running the car mostly for racing or track use, I wouldn't recommend using breathers anyhow.. For daily driver and street use, I really don't think there's any benefit in disabling the factory PCV system in favor of venting the crankcase to atmosphere with valve cover breathers..

Even if the PCV valve is removed by providing 3 paths for venting the crankcase, there still needs to be enough crankcase pressure for pushing the bad air out to begin with, otherwise the majority of crankcase vapors end up remaining in the crankcase causing contamination and eventually shortening the life of your rings and seals..



I actually ran breathers for awhile to find out just how effective they were over the factory PCV system and although they prevented crankcase vapors from entering the intake manifold and back into the crankcase itself, I found out through personal experience there was nothing coming out of the driver side cam cover because of the PCV valve not being removed first which only allowed for just one path on the passenger side cam cover for venting the crankcase..

So rather than going through the hassle of uninstalling the driver's side cam cover and then by having to cut open the PCV housing tube just in order to remove the valve and hope that nothing goes wrong.. That was just a risk in which I was not willing to take, therefore being that my car is mostly used for street use and isn't taken to the track anyhow, I decided that it was best to just leave the factory PCV system in place and run UPR's latest 4 chamber design catch can/oil separator instead.. So far after 4 months, the UPR separator seems to be doing it's job quite well..

As for running a breather in place of the factory oil cap goes, I also wouldn't recommend replacing the oil cap unless the breather has a one way check valve for preventing un-metered air from entering the crankcase..

Anyway just my $.02..

I have done some research on this as well, and this is exactly right.
 

Riptide

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One nice thing about breathers is eliminating lines in the engine bay. Mainly an aesthetic thing sure but modern cars are already pretty busy in there.

JPC told me it was not necessary to remove the check valve in the cam cover and that it won't hurt anything to leave it in. Been running it that way for a couple years now.

As far as the mess goes I don't think you end up with one if you drive the car like a normal car. Probably a couple dozen passes on it, many street pulls, and about 6000 miles. Only had to clean up once and it was the CFM oil cap breather that needed it.
 

46addict

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This thread was resurrected because my bank 1 fuel trim is lower than bank 2 by more than .10 in some ranges and there is some nasty part throttle bucking at low RPM. I'm going to go back to the stock PCV system and stay out of boost while I rule out possible causes. I also asked T-red for pics on the Bob's oil separator because I'm shopping for one.

I am currently running breathers on both sides with all ports on the manifold and air inlet tube blocked off. Before I start swapping injectors side to side I wanted to close all possible vacuum leaks.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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One nice thing about breathers is eliminating lines in the engine bay. Mainly an aesthetic thing sure but modern cars are already pretty busy in there.

JPC told me it was not necessary to remove the check valve in the cam cover and that it won't hurt anything to leave it in. Been running it that way for a couple years now.

As far as the mess goes I don't think you end up with one if you drive the car like a normal car. Probably a couple dozen passes on it, many street pulls, and about 6000 miles. Only had to clean up once and it was the CFM oil cap breather that needed it.

Being as you have a 2014 GT.. Your 5.0 Coyote 4v is totally different when compared to the older 4.6 3v.. With the older 4.6 3v's, if the PCV valve is not removed once the factory PCV system has been disabled, there is no longer anything connected from the intake manifold to the driver's side PCV valve to pull vacuum from.. Therefore the PCV valve will always remain closed as a direct result.. However from my understanding, the 5.0 Coyote 4v all have removable PCV valves unlike the older 4.6 3v's which all have internal PCV valves integrated inside the cam cover..

This thread was resurrected because my bank 1 fuel trim is lower than bank 2 by more than .10 in some ranges and there is some nasty part throttle bucking at low RPM. I'm going to go back to the stock PCV system and stay out of boost while I rule out possible causes. I also asked T-red for pics on the Bob's oil separator because I'm shopping for one.

I am currently running breathers on both sides with all ports on the manifold and air inlet tube blocked off. Before I start swapping injectors side to side I wanted to close all possible vacuum leaks.

As for fuel injectors, they most definitely have to be secured on vertically/straight..
 

46addict

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As for fuel injectors, they most definitely have to be secured on vertically/straight..

When I asked about the injectors I was using a different set. I now have Deka 60s and during the install I made sure all of them are seated correctly.

I do think my fuel trim issue is due to a vacuum leak.
 

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