The 'Dumb Question' Thread

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My dumb question, what is the negative for one guy sitting staged while the other takes his time to stage, why DQ the guy that is staged and waiting?

I dont know about DQ'ing, but I always hate when this happens. I like to launch around 6k, and if the tree comes down the instant I trip the second bulb, I generally dont get a chance to launch that hard and I bog down hard. I was getting really bad times the last time I was at the track because this kept happening to me.
 

JerryC

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I dont know about DQ'ing, but I always hate when this happens. I like to launch around 6k, and if the tree comes down the instant I trip the second bulb, I generally dont get a chance to launch that hard and I bog down hard. I was getting really bad times the last time I was at the track because this kept happening to me.

That's not on the racer, that's on the starter.
 

one.wicked.stang

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OK, First the car then the question.

2006 GT Whippled HO with 3.25 pulley and according to Boost gauge, 12# Boost.
TCI Shifter, servos, hardened input shaft with a 3500 PI Ind. stall on stock Auto
373s (have 410s on a shelf)
275/40/18s (Continental extreme contact DW) on all 4s
NEW THIS YEAR 26/6/15 MT Sportsmans on 15x4 Race Stars and MT 275/50/15 ET Streets on 15x8 Race Stars (haven't even mounted them yet)
1 piece DS
BBK TB
60# inj
HT0s at .30 (I think)
SCT BA2400 maf
iat relocated
FRPP hotrod cams
BMR Adj LCAs with relo brackets
BMR HD UCA mount and UCA
BMR Adj PHB and HD brace
Kooks LTs O/R H
Tuned by LITO. (I believe 17* timing) he can chime in on the tune if he chooses

(Its been to the track with street tires on but not for racing, I was there for fine tuning the tune so I never bothered getting the time slips)

Now the question?

The SC is a new way to race for me as last season I was NA. How do I launch this car when next seasons racing starts (tracks are open year round so I can go practice).
 
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psfracer

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When I had a whipple at 16 psi and a PI converter, I would just leave off idle, or barely bring up the rpms then just stab the throttle. It seemed to like this better then trying to bring up the rpms as high as the converter would allow, as the converter would "flash" off idle and the 60' times would actually be better.

Here is an inside video showing what I am talking about. Its about 3 years old, but you get the point.

[SFIRE]2005-whipple-mustang-gt-1067-128mph_164989[/SFIRE]
 
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That's not on the racer, that's on the starter.

True, but when one car double lights right away the starter gets impatient. Well at least at my track. It got to the point where I didnt car about the car that was racing next to me. I took my time even after the tree dropped as it doesnt effect my ET anyways.
 

psfracer

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It was just a TNT so it didn't matter.

In competition I always courtesy stage. But for a TNT when everyone is just running for an ET, who really gives a crap?
 

one eyed willy

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True, but when one car double lights right away the starter gets impatient. Well at least at my track. It got to the point where I didnt car about the car that was racing next to me. I took my time even after the tree dropped as it doesnt effect my ET anyways.


thats how i always run!
 

psycho bob

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I dont know about DQ'ing, but I always hate when this happens. I like to launch around 6k, and if the tree comes down the instant I trip the second bulb, I generally dont get a chance to launch that hard and I bog down hard. I was getting really bad times the last time I was at the track because this kept happening to me.



same thing used to happen to me all the time in TX. 80% of the people would be on street tires so they would be staged while i was warming up the tires. then the second my staged bulb goes on they would start the tree. i was launching at 5k and would almost always bog because i wouldn't get even a second to get my rpm's up.


my dumb questions:
1) first time i'll be using big's & littles. what psi should i start w/ for MT ET Fronts and MT ET Drag slicks (wrinkle wall)

2) using adjustable shocks front and back. should i have the front firm or soft. same question for the back.
 
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06vistabluegt

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same thing used to happen to me all the time in TX. 80% of the people would be on street tires so they would be staged while i was warming up the tires. then the second my staged bulb goes on they would start the tree. i was launching at 5k and would almost always bog because i wouldn't get even a second to get my rpm's up.


my dumb questions:
1) first time i'll be using big's & littles. what psi should i start w/ for MT ET Fronts and MT ET Drag slicks (wrinkle wall)

2) using adjustable shocks front and back. should i have the front firm or soft. same question for the back.

If it were me:

1) 40 front, 15 rear
2) For my tokicos I run full soft front and about in the middle in the back with the right rear about one round stiffer than left rear. Most of this is car/racer dependent though. This is what I found works best for me.
 

psycho bob

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that's what i was running w/ my et streets just didn't know if there was a difference for the wrinkle wall's
 

gtmiller1001

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Going to start my track visits for the fist time EVER, so this is pretty useful to me.

Car is a '11 GT w/a turbo and currently on street tires.

If I go on the street tires is there any real advantage to doing the same burnout as the guys w/ DR's or slicks? I mean I know the tires will heat up, but does it have the same advantage on street tires?

Same question for air pressure in the rear, they are 19" wheels w/285's on them right now, should I lower pressure...there's not too much sidewall there...
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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that's what i was running w/ my et streets just didn't know if there was a difference for the wrinkle wall's


Might want to also mark the rim/tire with a tire crayon so that you can see if the tire spins on the rim excessively.
 
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If I go on the street tires is there any real advantage to doing the same burnout as the guys w/ DR's or slicks? I mean I know the tires will heat up, but does it have the same advantage on street tires?

.

No the only purpose of a burnout for a street tire is to clean them off. Which doesn't really require a burnout at all.
 

08StangGT_CS

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Is it true that if you don't use it... you lose it?

Ok real question. What's a good source to read about racing tires. Bias ply, radials, etc. Not sure what all this is and which is better for what. I also always read not to mix them although saw a post where Derek @ amazon said it was ok.
 

OU81

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Yes, 100 lbs is = to a tenth. I used to use this method & weight reduction in general on my last truck(cammed, bolt on, nitrous hemi ram) & it worked.

Put it to you like this, my wife loves to ride along at the track. I let her ride in the mustang and every pass was a a solid and consistant tenth slower than by myself. She's a petite lil thing at 110 lbs. I havent pulled too much off my car yet but I'd like to dig into it a lil.
 

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