The Great Oil Debate

[RazorbackMustang]

I just bought 10 quarts(2 (5)gallon jugs) of M1 5W-20 for an oil change. I got 170 miles on it so it's time for a change!

170 miles...really? LOL Leave that oil in there for a while. Or, the next time you want to change the oil (I'll assume around 400 miles) just send me the money instead.

 

[JeremyH]

Ok I have been reading alot about engine oil and valve train componet failures on our modular engines, some say 5w20, some say 5w30, 10w? etc. for our engines. What about turbo modular engine oil being that you get more oil break-down due to excessive heat? EXAMPLE; The block assembly manufacture reccommend this weight of oil, valve train assembly manufacture reccommends another, and turbo requires a certain weight, Where do you comprimize?
I have had 2 roller followers go out in the last month, one on each bank. I been using 15w40 sense build approx. 10,000 mi., oil psi was good, and changed regular.
My question is, What would be the best oil for turbo modular engine? 4.6 3v stroked to 5.0 with turbo.

I've run 10w30 and 10w40 with great success for years now.

You could switch to a comp oil-less turbo and not have to worry about it anymore though, thats what im doing.

 

[Speed+Clinic]

I've run 10w30 and 10w40 with great success for years now.

You could switch to a comp oil-less turbo and not have to worry about it anymore though, thats what im doing.

Running water then? What happens when a gasket leaks, instead of oil you will be sending water?

cajun why dont you try running 10w30

Looking to switch after we finish the repairs, but why 10w-30 and not 5w-30 sense it flows better at start-up. just woundering. I know I was using 15w-40 but that's what was reccommended to me, no questions asked. Not sure how the 30 weight is going to act with blow-by.

It all depends on ambient temperature. a 0w30 and a 10w30 will have the same viscosity at 70F...

 

[JeremyH]

Running water then? What happens when a gasket leaks, instead of oil you will be sending water?

Yeap just requires water to cool. There are no gaskets to leak! No dynamic ring style seals to leak at all! The water runs through the jackets in the center cartridge to pull out heat and the tripple ceramic ball bearings on either end of the shaft are self contained with a high temp grease.

 

[2k9sloroush]

Thanks guys!

I know LESS about oil now than before I read this thread!!!!!!!!!

wow....... M1 FTW!!

+1 lol

 

[Speed+Clinic]

Yeap just requires water to cool. There are no gaskets to leak! No dynamic ring style seals to leak at all! The water runs through the jackets in the center cartridge to pull out heat and the tripple ceramic ball bearings on either end of the shaft are self contained with a high temp grease.

I still dont like them,if they go bad the water goes into the chamber

 

[MountainMichael]

I'm a BITOG member and read it a lot, but I'm damn sure no tribologist.

Was running Pennz Platinum 5w30 in my blower car and not using a drop. Engine was ridiculously clean inside when I took it apart for TSS.

Just switched to the "Binford" line; Pennz Ultra 5w30. Some people like this stuff, some really don't. I got it on sale, so eff it. If the engine blows up, I'll definitely blame it on the Ultra.

 

[JeremyH]

I still dont like them,if they go bad the water goes into the chamber

What are you talking about? Turbo's have been water cooled since they have been around its physicaly not possible for the water to leak anywhere. It's the same thing as the water passages in your engine. The jackets are just passages for the water to pass through the turbo catridge and pull heat.

 

[Fallenauthority]

I still dont like them,if they go bad the water goes into the chamber

Sounds like you dont know shit about them, so how can you not like them? Obviously you have never run one, seen one, let alone done any research on them.

 

[retfr8flyr]

^^^



Earl

 

[Corpo]

Joe Gibbs oil. Thoughts on that?

 

[NickS]

I'm a BITOG member and read it a lot, but I'm damn sure no tribologist.

Was running Pennz Platinum 5w30 in my blower car and not using a drop. Engine was ridiculously clean inside when I took it apart for TSS.

Just switched to the "Binford" line; Pennz Ultra 5w30. Some people like this stuff, some really don't. I got it on sale, so eff it. If the engine blows up, I'll definitely blame it on the Ultra.

What is the "binford" line? I use Ultra 5w-20 in my 'Stang as well.

 

[MountainMichael]

What is the "binford" line? I use Ultra 5w-20 in my 'Stang as well.

It's a joke from the old comedy show "Tool Time". Their fictitious line of tools was Binford. The common theme was wretched excess; always more; never enough.

The analogy here: Platinum wasn't enough; gotta have ultra. Logical progression next year would be "Super Ultra 2 Titanium" and I'll probably go for that, too. lol

What're your thoughts on viscosity in Ultra for a blower car?

I may go from 5w30 to 5w20 ultra is why I ask.

 

[NickS]

I'd say 5w20 just because I've read VCT is very sensitive to thicker viscosity oils. Thats why I've always ran 20.

 

[Speed+Clinic]

What are you talking about? Turbo's have been water cooled since they have been around its physicaly not possible for the water to leak anywhere. It's the same thing as the water passages in your engine. The jackets are just passages for the water to pass through the turbo catridge and pull heat.

I have seen with my own eyes cracked center housings out of a subaru 2.5 engine and if im not mistaken the other one I've seen is from volvo as well. You've never had a spun journal bearing on a turbo? A screwed up BB? Water cooling wont save your turbo if you turn it off immediately after hitting the car unless you have an electronic water pump that is automatically controlled. Dont know I just prefer not to add any other system that has the posibility of a failure as well. If you are getting some stupid long term heat from the turbo it could be from over fuelling, restrictive turbo outlet flanges, restrictive exhausts or just plain outside the efficiency range.

 

[Speed+Clinic]

Sounds like you dont know shit about them, so how can you not like them? Obviously you have never run one, seen one, let alone done any research on them.

Im 100% sure I have worked on turbos more than you. How many have you even ported? changed out? Stock App etc etc.

Running a bullseye s380R, the only option that has both sides cnc'd. Atleast it was when I bought it, The GTX series has only one side billet/hta design the hot side is still the old technology POS. And some Food For Thought, the VTG line will be made public shortly.

 

[HellsBells]

I have seen with my own eyes cracked center housings out of a subaru 2.5 engine and if im not mistaken the other one I've seen is from volvo as well. You've never had a spun journal bearing on a turbo? A screwed up BB? Water cooling wont save your turbo if you turn it off immediately after hitting the car unless you have an electronic water pump that is automatically controlled. Dont know I just prefer not to add any other system that has the posibility of a failure as well. If you are getting some stupid long term heat from the turbo it could be from over fuelling, restrictive turbo outlet flanges, restrictive exhausts or just plain outside the efficiency range.

How does overfueling create more heat in the turbo? I'm pretty sure EGT's drop as you run richer.

Also, for those wondering the Ultra vs Platinum, Platinum actually contains more Group IV base oils than Ultra--just FYI.

 

[JeremyH]

I have seen with my own eyes cracked center housings out of a subaru 2.5 engine and if im not mistaken the other one I've seen is from volvo as well. You've never had a spun journal bearing on a turbo? A screwed up BB? Water cooling wont save your turbo if you turn it off immediately after hitting the car unless you have an electronic water pump that is automatically controlled. Dont know I just prefer not to add any other system that has the posibility of a failure as well. If you are getting some stupid long term heat from the turbo it could be from over fuelling, restrictive turbo outlet flanges, restrictive exhausts or just plain outside the efficiency range.

Now your just reaching, sure anything is possible with a catastrophic failure. A water cooled turbo will always run cooler than an oil only cooled turbo. There is no seal to leak the water anywhere. Water is a better more efficient heat exchanger and is more reliable than oil ever will be and is the prefered method for cooling a turbo from an oem and reliability standpoint. The Comp oil-less setup runs a strong and lightweight all billet aluminum center section that is water cooled and the ceramic ball bearings use a high temperature grease to lubricate them. Out of the numerous benefits of running a water only cooled turbo is that it will indeed pull heat out of the turbo after the car is shut off and the water stops flowing. Since there is no restriction on mounting orientation since there is no oil feed and drain needed it allows you to orient the turbo to maximize heat siphoning and the water will still pull heat away from the turbo even after the car is off. During testing Comp ran it at high rpm in boost and removed the water cooling and ran it for 6 hours trying to throw as much heat at the bearing catridge. After the test the bearings were still in spec and were regreased and thrown back in the car for more torture testing. This technology is no way comparible to a water and oil cooled turbo with a cracked housing that you pulled out of a 2.5L subaru.

 

[GrabberBlue305]

I know alot about oil, and prefer Red Line, but if I ever have questions, even scientific questions Norm at www.eurosyntheticoils.com is the nicest guy to talk too. I have called and talked for an hour with him about alternatives to what I'm running etc...

 

[GrabberBlue305]

Really? I wasnt aware of that...