Think this is what killed my motor?

Marble

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Hey marble,

Get ahold of NoviBlownGT (Derek). He has some links with Apocalypse Performance. I'm assuming your rods are okay? If not check out Molnar. I plan on getting my rods and pistons through Derek or ModMax racing. Will be doing Molnar rods and either ross racing pistions or Wiesco pistons. Most likely will go Wiesco cause I want the coated skirt.
I think the rods are ok. Two got pretty hot but have not been measured yet. It's possible I will have to purchase a couple rods.

I'm just thankful I waited to fix it and saved cash here and there. I saved for a worse case scenario and it seems this is far from it.

And I think Apocalypse has what I need there. I looked through the site and they had a good selection.
 

RED09GT

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How or what would cause the thrust bearing to fail?

The easy thing to blame is the end play of the crank being either too tight or too loose during assembly. The clutch or Torque converter can be the cause as well, overloading from a blower on the crank snout, etc...

You rarely see this failure on OEM engines. I have seen it happen to engines built by pretty good builders so it can just be luck of the draw.

I asked the head machinist at my favorite machine shop why there are more failures on non-factory assembled motors. He figured that at least half of them were due to not seating the thrust bearing and keeping the crank pushed forward when torquing the main caps down. He also said that certain brands of torque converters were seeing more failures than average too.
 

RED09GT

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This was a manual transmission car, swapped to a 4r70. When I unbolted the the converter from the flexplate, there were shims, looks like slightly more than 1/8 inch, between the two. My guess is it was improperly shimmed which would cause the failure. But until I get the motor and tranny back together, it's just an educated guess.

That would make sense. Make sure to have the gears on the front pump checked as well.
 

Marble

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That would make sense. Make sure to have the gears on the front pump checked as well.
I'm going to deal with one thing at a time. After the motor is done then I have to send the blower in to get it checked and was also considering tightening up the convertor. It flashes to about 4500. I would like it lowered a bit just for driving on the street. IDk...
 

Marble

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Valves are severely worn also. So valve job. Yippie.

So our valves are three groove valves that float. Anyone switch to a valve that is the single groove, non floating type? They are slightly more expensive but maybe more durable and handle abuse better.

And gaskets...I've heard several opinions on this but someone with some good info, not what works for you but what is recommended for our engines.

I believe I had a cometic gasket on there which is an MLS gasket. If I get a stock thickness MLS gasket with a 18 cc piston my CR will be about 9.2, 14 cc will be 9.7. The block has been decked a bit and so have the heads so stock calculations do not work for standard pistons. Pistons would be a .030 over.

Thoughts?
 

RocketcarX

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Put the pistons at zero deck if you're gonna machine the block surface and calculate the compression.
 

RocketcarX

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I'm not sure what that means.
install a piston, measure how far "in the hole" it is. Deck the material off the deck to bring the piston level with the block surface. Why are they decking the block anyhow, was it warped? It's not something I would do just because you're overhauling the engine unless you're wanting to blueprint the block or something.
 

Marble

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So the block was garbage. Main cap with the thrust bearing was too damaged to be machined.

A new block was ordered last week, $500 for a seasoned iron block. I really wanted to get an aluminum block but I am trying to save some coin. Well...turns out it was an aluminum block from an 06. Looks to be in great shape. Arrived today. No more funky motor mount plates, 78 less pounds and will sit around 1/4-1/2" lower in the hole.

#delighted
 

RocketcarX

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So the block was garbage. Main cap with the thrust bearing was too damaged to be machined.

A new block was ordered last week, $500 for a seasoned iron block. I really wanted to get an aluminum block but I am trying to save some coin. Well...turns out it was an aluminum block from an 06. Looks to be in great shape. Arrived today. No more funky motor mount plates, 78 less pounds and will sit around 1/4-1/2" lower in the hole.

#delighted
I heart this post
 

eighty6gt

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who sold you a "seasoned" iron block, and then got you an aluminum block instead?

Very interesting.

I like to season my blocks with salt and lime. Chili powder.

@lito
 

Marble

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Haha..Seasoned as in already used and had mileage on it. It's been heat cycled, stressed etc.

I didn't see where it came from, but I would guess it was from one of the smaller dismantlers and either got listed incorrectly or whoever put it in didn't know what it was and marked it wrong.
 

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