white95
boost or bust
Got it ready to pull the blower and intake manifold to fix a busted heater core hose tomorrow.
What have you done to your mustang today?
- Thread starter *JZ*
- Start date
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
Doing some test runs this morning and making datalogs. Went to back out of the garage for a second set of logs and damn, no reverse. All six forward gears are there. No grinding or chatter. I know the lockout is working because I can push through it into the reverse gate. It just won’t push into gear. Running or not it feels like the blocker ring is holding it out. I guess I’m pulling the tail housing.
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
It just keeps getting better and better. This afternoon in the garage I pushed the car back, fired it up to run it up on blocks so I can get a jack under it. Low and behold it goes right into reverse now. I felt e bit of a bump the first time I tried but now it goes smoothly into any gear like normal. I really hate things that fix themselves so now I get to play the do I take it apart or not game. I will see what the fluid looks like first.
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white95
boost or bust
@Midlife Crises
My “what the hell” moment for the day:
Pulled the blower/intake for a repair and put it back together. Throttle body forgot what it was supposed to do. Took it apart, put it back together and it worked.
What the hell…
My “what the hell” moment for the day:
Pulled the blower/intake for a repair and put it back together. Throttle body forgot what it was supposed to do. Took it apart, put it back together and it worked.
What the hell…
white95
boost or bust
Did you calibrate the interlocking granistan joint?
Colonel, there’s no such thing as an interlocking granistan joint.
white95
boost or bust
Used to watch re-runs with my parents as a kid in the 80’s
Good times
Good times
I watched them as they came out 1st run episodes. I still watch the reruns almost daily. My wife (MUCH younger than me) never heard of the show, and leaves the room when I start running them from them from the DVR. Kids, go figure!
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
Is been that kind a day. Oil looked good by the way. A little bit of carbon and tastes just awful.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Had been noticing excess road noise transfer into cabin since MGW shifter install so I figured I had set shifter rear mount too high (using BlowFish Racing Remote Shifter bracket) thus shifter was contacting tunnel hump of floor pan.
Put her in the air & when I loosened the 4 bolts that secures the rear shifter mount bracket the thing dropped 1\2" immediately from the bind (made the mistake of setting\tightening this shifter mount bracket before run up\tightening the trans crossmember bolts during initial install) so I made double sure that all cleared the tunnel hump AND the lower adjustable section of shifter cleared the driveshaft counter-weights off the 1\2" lowering (all cleared fine) thus eliminated the noise transfer into cabin.....damn shifter operates dead quiet now....makes absolutely no noise at all when operated & w\ the amount of spring tension this thing has it is now very easy to shift from 1st gear into 4th gear if you don't maintain a side load on the handle to counter the springs when shifting from 1st to 2nd (got lazy when taking off on an approx 8* incline & allowed this to happen, but due to the increased amount of low speed TQ now gained from fixing the injector ref IVO CA setting in tune to match up to my cams IVO timing point, the rework of the DD TQ Request map's APP 16%-92% rows to request more low RPM TQ applied & the correction to ETC TB PTA\EA mapping to more accurately rep my FR 62mm TB thus also increasing the amount of TQ application off more accurate ETC TB TPS air load% calcs to MAF air load% calcs, car just rolled on in 4th gear w\o APP assist & no stalling so allowed me to quickly shift into 2nd gear once I recognized this & carry on.......).
Also finally finished realigning my exhaust tips (moved DS tip in 1\4" to line up w\ the PS tip then rolled DS exhaust to center tip in bumper cover) from the MF #5461336 cat install back in 9-21 so now all is even on both sides............
Put her in the air & when I loosened the 4 bolts that secures the rear shifter mount bracket the thing dropped 1\2" immediately from the bind (made the mistake of setting\tightening this shifter mount bracket before run up\tightening the trans crossmember bolts during initial install) so I made double sure that all cleared the tunnel hump AND the lower adjustable section of shifter cleared the driveshaft counter-weights off the 1\2" lowering (all cleared fine) thus eliminated the noise transfer into cabin.....damn shifter operates dead quiet now....makes absolutely no noise at all when operated & w\ the amount of spring tension this thing has it is now very easy to shift from 1st gear into 4th gear if you don't maintain a side load on the handle to counter the springs when shifting from 1st to 2nd (got lazy when taking off on an approx 8* incline & allowed this to happen, but due to the increased amount of low speed TQ now gained from fixing the injector ref IVO CA setting in tune to match up to my cams IVO timing point, the rework of the DD TQ Request map's APP 16%-92% rows to request more low RPM TQ applied & the correction to ETC TB PTA\EA mapping to more accurately rep my FR 62mm TB thus also increasing the amount of TQ application off more accurate ETC TB TPS air load% calcs to MAF air load% calcs, car just rolled on in 4th gear w\o APP assist & no stalling so allowed me to quickly shift into 2nd gear once I recognized this & carry on.......).
Also finally finished realigning my exhaust tips (moved DS tip in 1\4" to line up w\ the PS tip then rolled DS exhaust to center tip in bumper cover) from the MF #5461336 cat install back in 9-21 so now all is even on both sides............
I think I finally solved the chirping birds from under my hood. It was one of those things that you could not replicate in the driveway so it was a bitch to find the multiple sources. Ended up swapping in the stock water pump, idler arm and pulley, the Whipple idler pulley ($145 for a 2" pulley) and the two upper idler pulleys. Last night I swapped out the grooved idler pulley and I think it's gone. Every time I replaced a part the chirping got better but was still present. Weird how so many bearings were making noise at the same time. I am going to put my electric pump back in and order a new set of idler pulleys. I used autozone replacements just to nail down the problem and it seems like everybody is backordered on new pulleys. At least she's not embarrassing to drive now. I will wait for the parts to get made.
Yeah, I hate extra noises like that. I’d had new cars do the same, and neither I, nor the dealer could nail it down. I had a Kia that chirped for 200,000 miles. It was mostly for the kids to drive, the noise drove me crazy.
Good job on nailing it down.
Good job on nailing it down.
Replaced the rear diff upper bushing with a Prothane unit, changed the oil with some fresh Amsoil 5W50, installed a new Motorcraft filter, and replaced the 2-piece driveshaft with a 1-piece Ford Racing aluminum unit (made by Dana Spicer).
white95
boost or bust
Drove it to work
Mach2burnout
05 Redfire GT
That garage…that car… sure does remind me of an old long lost friend of this forum, that lost his way.
I’d be speaking of the sterility of the place of course. You don’t happen to take your shoes off and where socks on your hands by any chance when you in there, do ya?
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white95
boost or bust
Do you speak of Darren?
Mach2burnout
05 Redfire GT
white95
boost or bust
Im gonna have to text that fool now! Sure hope he still has the same number.
dark steed
Resident noob
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