What have you done to your mustang today?

Mach2burnout

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Battery is over 7 years old. With the engine off, it measures at about 11.1V
Seems like it's just time for a new one.

About 7 years and a few months is what I have gotten out of the last few Motorcraft batteries that I’ve had. Can’t get but about 4 out of any other brand.


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Gabe

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About 7 years and a few months is what I have gotten out of the last few Motorcraft batteries that I’ve had. Can’t get but about 4 out of any other brand.


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They're a good brand. I always get the MAX model which is their best.
This one has a 1/15 sticker on it, so it's technically over 8 years old.
Car took a jump start this morning, so the battery is out and in the truck with me, getting a new one on the way home.

Side note: Currently it's a 96R, the wife's '08 has a 40R in it, slightly larger, longer reserve, slightly heavier. Not worried about weight, so I'm getting a 40R this time around.
The 96R was installed under warranty when the car was just under 3 years old and it's apparently what Ford actually specifies for the car.
 

86GT351

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They're a good brand. I always get the MAX model which is their best.
This one has a 1/15 sticker on it, so it's technically over 8 years old.
Car took a jump start this morning, so the battery is out and in the truck with me, getting a new one on the way home.

Side note: Currently it's a 96R, the wife's '08 has a 40R in it, slightly larger, longer reserve, slightly heavier. Not worried about weight, so I'm getting a 40R this time around.
The 96R was installed under warranty when the car was just under 3 years old and it's apparently what Ford actually specifies for the car.
You have gotten great time out of them. Batteries in South Florida are lucky to see 2.5 to 3 years due to the extreme heat most of the year.
 

JC SSP

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So true. If you get 4+ years out of battery in a hot and humid environment your winning.

I wrap all my battery’s in heat blankets and buy autozone for the domestic cars. The import takes a special battery. Lol
 

DieHarder

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Installed heat shields for the front LCA's. Then started replacing wiring (bought another loom) for a Boost/AFR combo gauge (AEM 30-4900). Thought the gauge was going bad but turns out it was the wiring loom. Got lucky finding another loom online so slowly removing the old one and will then install the new. Bench tested the new loom with the gauge and it works fine. Thank god because the gauge is no longer made and didn't want to drop $300+ on a newer version. Innovate makes a version that would probably work (PSB-1) but I'd rather continue using what I already have. All of my gauges are dual-function so I have 4 gauges but monitor 8 parameters.
 

Laga

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All of my gauges are dual-function so I have 4 gauges but monitor 8 parameters.
I have an Areoforce Interceptor that monitors all 30+ PID’s, plus A/F ratio, and oil temperature. A digital water temp for the intercooler. Digital water temp of coolant right before radiator. Digital oil pressure, analog boost, and lastly, ethanol content of E85. Interceptor and intercooler gauges are in the center air vents and three gauges are in the glove compartment.
 
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DieHarder

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I have an Areoforce Interceptor that monitors all 33 PID’s, plus A/F ratio, and oil temperature. A digital water temp for the intercooler. Digital water temp of coolant right before radiator. Digital oil pressure, analog boost, and lastly, ethanol content of E85. Interceptor and intercooler gauges are in the center air vents and three gauges are in the glove compartment.

Cool... I'm a bit more old fashioned and don't mind scanning a few dedicated gauges. Not running ethanol though I understand it can provide more power at the expense of lower mileage.
 

Laga

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The A/F and boost are only needed for tuning. I like to keep track of intercooler, water, along with oil temp and pressure . Ethanol needs to be monitored because content varies during the year and from station to station. If I get a big change, I need to load a different tune from Lito for that percentage. I can even go back to 93 octane if I had to.
 

Mach2burnout

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So true. If you get 4+ years out of battery in a hot and humid environment your winning.

I wrap all my battery’s in heat blankets and buy autozone for the domestic cars. The import takes a special battery. Lol

You have gotten great time out of them. Batteries in South Florida are lucky to see 2.5 to 3 years due to the extreme heat most of the year.

Ha ha! I’m in Louisiana, you don’t get much more hot and humid unless you got to the rain forest!

My Og battery went over 7 years in my 05 GT, replaced it with the one spec’s for the V6. Must smaller and lighter, but has performed well. Replaced it at the end of another 7+ year period with the same. I’m 4+ years into that one.


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DieHarder

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The A/F and boost are only needed for tuning. I like to keep track of intercooler, water, along with oil temp and pressure . Ethanol needs to be monitored because content varies during the year and from station to station. If I get a big change, I need to load a different tune from Lito for that percentage. I can even go back to 93 octane if I had to.

Currently, this is what I monitor w/the gauges:

(Innovate) Water Temp (Rad outlet) /Batt Voltage
(Innovate) Oil Pressure/Oil Temp
(VLS) AIT's = Ambient & Compressed (In a way this tells me how the intercooler system is doing).
(AEM) Boost/WB AFR (for tuning)

I'm running a second gen DOB kit (GT500 M122; 93 octane) and like you Lito does my tuning.

I looked at the Aeroforce but as I said I'm a bit old fashioned and my near eyesight (20/20 far) isn't what it used to be so it's easier for me to see gauges w/large lighted numbers or colored rings.

If I plug my laptop in I can monitor a lot more which is what Lito uses to tune the car. Runs great and really happy with the performance though now that I've gotten used to it I'd like to build something truly scary but at my age the car is already fast enough to really get me trouble so probably best to just be satisfied with what I have.
 

Mach2burnout

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Not today, but over the weekend and last night; I removed the entire front cap off my 2014 GT, removed the crumpled radiator support. Then fitted the one I took off the donor car last weekend along with all the front end parts. Then last night disassembled it all and welded some of the spot/plug welds. Ran out of time and didn’t finish it. Was just too tired to go out tonight to finish.


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GlassTop09

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Finally got 1 of my replacement OEM Ford part# 5R3Z-16C900-AA 05-09 V6\GT Hood Shields to come in today (2nd was shipped later & is currently in transit) to install on my hood after my 1st 1 blew off while performing my 2,500 RPM to limiter WOT run when I was tuning her (ordered them @ CJ Pony Parts on 2-23-23.....were on backorder until 1 of them came in & shipped on 3-14-23--the 1 I got today--while the 2nd 1--my spare--came in & shipped out 3-17-23...should get here by 3-21-23).

Before installing it, I cleaned up the front edge of hood along w\ other areas of hood & fixed all the paint chips w\ my Dr. Color Chip Ford UA Ebony paint chip repair kit, then installed new hood shield using 4-M6 x 16mm black anodized SS license plate bolts w\ black dress covers w\ 2-M6 flat washers per bolt (to space out between shield & shield hood mounting bracket so bolt tip wouldn't bottom out into rear of bracket when tightened) & 4-M6 motorcycle windshield fairing mounting clip nuts w\ blue Loctite on bolt threads so this sucker won't be coming off no more (used the black plastic push locks that come w\ the hood shield the 1st time.....they degraded over time & lost holding tension).

Now she don't feel naked no more & is ready to be driven!
 

ghunt81

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Took my car out for a drive yesterday (it was 75 degrees) with the OE mufflers, first drive since I put them on.

Man I should have done this years ago. Car still sounds damn amazing but is not so loud and most importantly, seems like it has basically no drone inside at all. And that's with long tubes. Now if the tips just looked a little nicer.
 

XJCasper

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Took my car out for a drive yesterday (it was 75 degrees) with the OE mufflers, first drive since I put them on.

Man I should have done this years ago. Car still sounds damn amazing but is not so loud and most importantly, seems like it has basically no drone inside at all. And that's with long tubes. Now if the tips just looked a little nicer.
If I had not gone side pipes? I would have stuck with the factory cat-back. Non-chatted H-pipe with factory manifolds and mufflers were quiet, and had a beautiful growl I jumped on the throttle. In hindsight? Should have left my body stock and put the $ into more performance.
 

GriffX

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Does somebody has painted the grille?
These deep honeycombs and the area around the fog lamps looks very difficult to spray paint
 

07 Boss

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Does somebody has painted the grille?
These deep honeycombs and the area around the fog lamps looks very difficult to spray paint


Pull the grill off of the car. It will make it much easier to paint. Other than that I'm not quite sure what the dificulty is???
 

GriffX

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Pull the grill off of the car. It will make it much easier to paint. Other than that I'm not quite sure what the dificulty is???

You get a very thin layer at the recessed areas and a thick at the edges likely to get chipped from the road debris. The success of painting would not last long in that case. The grill has faded and become ugly over time at my car.

PS: The guy who invented the latches to hold the grill should burn in hell
 
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