What have you done to your mustang today?

Laga

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2019
Posts
998
Reaction score
521
Location
Chicago
I FINALLY finished my engine rebuild project that started last January. Initially, things started out OK, but then turned into a comedy of errors.
It took about 4 months to find a shop that A, I trusted, B, wasn’t ridiculously expensive, C, could do the job without a 6 month wait, D, could get parts.
I also had to find someone to remove and reinstall the engine because my health no longer allows that level of work.
I found a machine shop/builder with a good reputation who had just moved into a larger shop. As luck would have it, the shop that installed my torque converter a couple of years ago relocated in the same industrial park as the builder and would do the removal. It took about a month to get parts and rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons. I was there when the engine was started for the first time and the timing cover had an oil leak. That was fixed in 3 days. I get the car back and start to break in the engine. About a week later, the drivers side valve cover is leaking oil. I try to see if a bolt was missed when tightening, and discover that all the valve cover bolts are over tightened. A new kid the builder had hired did not check specs when doing reassembly after timing cover fix.
I drive the car around for a couple of weeks breaking in engine, and it drives perfectly. I go to do datalog to send to Lito, and it won’t shift from 3rd to 4th gear or rev past 5K RPMs. Lito says everything looks good on the datalog and doesn’t know what’s happening.
After a couple of weeks of trouble shooting, I find the nut on the alternator that holds positive cable is loose. See kid from before. Everything works at low rpm, but vibrations at WOT causes misfires. Tighten nut and car runs good. Send Lito datalog.
He says to check for loose exhaust because knock sensors are going crazy. I cannot find anything loose on car, so he tunes as is. Unfortunately, at this point, it’s August and Lito is on vacation and it takes a week for him to respond to an email. After a month we get it tuned. I take it to a couple of HPDE track days and the drag strip and it runs very good. I decide to install smaller pulley on SC and check knock sensors while I’m at it. Turns out the shop that reinstalled the engine, had torqued the KSs to 25 ft/lbs instead of the required 15 ft/lbs. This was causing the false knock Lito was seeing. I replaced the KSs and put everything back together. I installed the last tune, did a final datalog, and as of yesterday, all is good. FINALLY.
 

Gladams

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2022
Posts
105
Reaction score
78
Location
Oak Grove, Missouri
Changed oil in both vehicles. Readjusted the front koni’s 1/4 turn stiffer. so far I like the change. Ordered new struts and shocks for the ranger, rough country. Waiting on my velossatech for the ranger to arrive. Thanks.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,143
Reaction score
525
Location
Farmington, NM
Just got my new Dummy OBDII Relocation harness installed so I can now perform driving datalogs w\o OBDII interface interference whatsoever:
OBDII Fake Port Original Position Driver Side.JPG OBDII Relocated Real Port Passenger Side.JPG
Makes for a clean plug & play install wiring-wise.......no cutting or splicing needed, all excess cabling is tied up neatly under dash. To mount the relocated OBDII port on passenger side I had to make a special bracket out of some aluminum flat plate to keep the port tucked close under the dash (the normal L-shaped OBDII relocation port brackets allow the port to stick too far down below the dash line for my tastes)
OBDII Relocation Port Bracket.JPG OBDII Relocation Port Bracket (2).JPG
& out of the way for passenger leg room then mount it all using some M6 x 20mm black anodized license plate bolts w\ black trim bolt head covers to give it a more custom look & got a black OBDII port cover to hide the pins so it all blends into the black (dark) background.

Tested all out.......all working as advertised. The fake OBDII port will power up any OBDII tool\interface attached to it but will not allow any connection to vehicle's DLC system (tool just searches for protocols to no avail) while the relocated real OBDII port operates normally.

When getting into car normally on passenger side, this relocated OBDII port is not visible thru normal line of sight........

Now off to start running VCM Scanner datalogs!
 

XJCasper

forum member
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Posts
433
Reaction score
17
Location
Yelm, Washington
Just got my new Dummy OBDII Relocation harness installed so I can now perform driving datalogs w\o OBDII interface interference whatsoever:
View attachment 84880 View attachment 84881
Makes for a clean plug & play install wiring-wise.......no cutting or splicing needed, all excess cabling is tied up neatly under dash. To mount the relocated OBDII port on passenger side I had to make a special bracket out of some aluminum flat plate to keep the port tucked close under the dash (the normal L-shaped OBDII relocation port brackets allow the port to stick too far down below the dash line for my tastes)
View attachment 84882 View attachment 84883
& out of the way for passenger leg room then mount it all using some M6 x 20mm black anodized license plate bolts w\ black trim bolt head covers to give it a more custom look & got a black OBDII port cover to hide the pins so it all blends into the black (dark) background.

Tested all out.......all working as advertised. The fake OBDII port will power up any OBDII tool\interface attached to it but will not allow any connection to vehicle's DLC system (tool just searches for protocols to no avail) while the relocated real OBDII port operates normally.

When getting into car normally on passenger side, this relocated OBDII port is not visible thru normal line of sight........

Now off to start running VCM Scanner datalogs!
I need to look closer at this. It is so difficult to do datalog pulls at 6'1", 330 lbs, with a size 15. Where did you pick up the plug?

Thank you
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,143
Reaction score
525
Location
Farmington, NM
That looks like a great way to prevent tanglefoot when dataloging.
Another reason why I went w\ this setup....in addition to not hitting the OBDII interface w\ my left knee while operating the clutch, having to rig up\rig down clearing the shifter\steering wheel, etc. A plug & play 1 & done install........no cutting, splicing of any wiring\ports & ain't gotta mess w\ it anymore once installed so it's always there to use when you need it. All located on the passenger side so laptop can sit in passenger seat so I can use my 12v outlet socket inside console storage to power laptop......keeping the driver side & console completely clear of cabling\obstructions thus free to navigate. The dummy OBDII port was extra.......wasn't looking for\needing it but it comes w\ this harness. Has a tangible purpose so it's not a total waste & maintains the full OEM interior look.

I need to look closer at this. It is so difficult to do datalog pulls at 6'1", 330 lbs, with a size 15. Where did you pick up the plug?

Thank you
Here is the web site:
Ford dummy OBD port relocation | Dummy OBD

This company resides in the UK & they build all types of OBDII relocation harnesses for all makes of vehicles to deter car theft (carjacking\thefts are rampant in the UK) ......couldn't find this or anything along this design anywhere in the US\NA continent.
This is the harness: IMG_0632.JPG
I ordered for a 2015- Mustang & sent them a picture of the existing factory OBDII port in my '09 GT so they would know which OEM port design to replicate for the dummy OBDII port so it will match\fit exactly in the same slot in dash as the original port (not all 2015 & up Mustangs use the same OEM OBDII port design.......). Total cost was $49.91 US dollars w\ free shipping to my house thru USPS. Took approx 2 1\2 to 3 wks shipping time to get it once order was processed.

The bracket for the relocated OBDII port I made to keep port tucked close to bottom of\slightly behind dash line so port will clear opened glove box but still allow a straight shot to plug into it. It also stiffens up the section of the ABS plastic dash trim I attached this port to (not enough metal dash area available to attach this port to & clear glove box) so the setup is very sturdy when all is tightened up. 2" x 3" flat aluminum plate bent into a 40* angle at 3\4" (to allow for the OBDII port to mount..... port mount is 2-3\4" L x 1\2" W) then used the rest (1-1\4") to mount onto the OEM ABS plastic dash trim using M6 rivnuts in bracket.

Don't waste time trying to use the ABS plastic OBDII relocation brackets found on Amazon as they're too flimsy...............

Hope this helps.

PS edit--Forgot to mention......I used some dielectric grease on the OBDII harness female connector pins to coat all when plugged into the vehicle's OEM male port to protect from any chance of oxidation since I don't plan on removing this harness. I also used some 3M electrical tape & securely taped this connection together to further secure it.
 
Last edited:

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,143
Reaction score
525
Location
Farmington, NM
Replaced my 14 yr old worn out GT accelerator pedal sensor assembly (FoMoCo part# 8R3A-9F836-BA......while running\playback VCM Scanner datalogs I noted the APP signal spiking frequently at the at-rest position & not tracking very steady at the lower APP positions off at-rest--not bad enough to set off any DTC's but bad enough to see.....I knew it wasn't an IF but WHEN scenario so I got ahead of it) w\ what I thought was an aftermarket Standard Products APS271 '09 GT accelerator pedal sensor assembly w\ the 07-10 GT500 metal foot pad added onto it ordered off Rock Auto......but what came out of the box was a brand new genuine FoMoCo part# 8R3A-9F836-AA 07-10 GT500\GT500KR accelerator pedal sensor assembly complete w\ replaceable metal foot pad!

Pedal installs\bolts up w\o issue........R&R 3-10mm nuts & 1 connector (applied dielectric grease to all connector pins to deter any chance of oxidation\corrosion formation) & then performed KOEO APP recalibration (let PCM recalibrate to APP at-rest signal then slowly depress APP to calibrate APP signal smoothly to APP full range then slowly release APP to retrace signal tracking from full range back to at-rest) a couple of times just because (the 1st time was enough) then started car up to take on a test drive after warmup.

All went excellent. 1st thing out the gate.......this APP ain't got no flat spots in the signal generation off the at-rest position.......I swear if you breathe on the damn thing the engine will respond! And I LOVE IT.........makes driving a manual trans using a hydraulic clutch w\ DBW throttle control much, much easier to time clutch engagements to engine response w\o flaring the engine RPM's.

Highly recommend it as a std APP replacement part for all 05-10 base & GT S197's..........if you can still find them. I cross referenced the part# on 2 Ford dealership's online stores & it came back as discontinued then referenced to the std APP part# 4R3Z-9F836-BD that matches the part# 8R3A-9F836-BA but is shown to fit all 05-10 MY Base, GT, Bullitt, Shelby GT, Shelby GT500\GT500KR (4.0L, 4.6L & 5.4L) cars.......................

FYI.......................
 
Last edited:

GriffX

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Posts
529
Reaction score
180
All went excellent. 1st thing out the gate.......this APP ain't got no flat spots in the signal generation off the at-rest position.......I swear if you breathe on the damn thing the engine will respond! And I LOVE IT.........makes driving a manual trans using a hydraulic clutch w\ DBW throttle control much, much easier to time clutch engagements to engine response w\o flaring the engine RPM's.
FYI.......................
Thanks!
Most annoying with the manual trans is that I have to lift the APP 2/10 second before I press the clutch to avoid an engine rev-up. Has this changed too?
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,143
Reaction score
525
Location
Farmington, NM
Thanks!
Most annoying with the manual trans is that I have to lift the APP 2/10 second before I press the clutch to avoid an engine rev-up. Has this changed too?
Hi Griffx,

I can't say as I've never experienced (or am fully understanding) what you're posting concerning this w\ a manual.........if I'm understanding what you typed.......you're saying that if you didn't lift slightly off APP prior clutch disengagement (clutch switch signal informing PCM of this action upon initiation) that the engine RPM's would rev up excessively from APP A\D counts being more than .000 thus informing PCM to open TB BF's more even though PCM also knows that clutch is being depressed..........correct?

If this is what you're referring to, then I haven't experienced that, either w\ old APP or w\ this new APP but I also actually lift off the APP just before clutch disengagement as a normal practice so maybe this is why I haven't experienced this.........or never paid much attention to if it did occur.

I'll try to remember next outing to try holding APP in position then depress clutch to see if what you've described occurs or not.
 

GriffX

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Posts
529
Reaction score
180
Right. On all my other cars I lift the gas pedal and press the clutch almost simultaneously. But not on the S197 (and also on the S550). If I want to shift at e.g. 2000 UPM, lift the gas and press the clutch in parallel, engine revs up to 2500. So I have to lift the pedal 2 10th earlier than pressing the clutch. It is like the lag when you press the gas pedal, but inverse.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,143
Reaction score
525
Location
Farmington, NM
Right. On all my other cars I lift the gas pedal and press the clutch almost simultaneously. But not on the S197 (and also on the S550). If I want to shift at e.g. 2000 UPM, lift the gas and press the clutch in parallel, engine revs up to 2500. So I have to lift the pedal 2 10th earlier than pressing the clutch. It is like the lag when you press the gas pedal, but inverse.
Ok...........I'll look into this on my end & will post back what I find out.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,143
Reaction score
525
Location
Farmington, NM
Right. On all my other cars I lift the gas pedal and press the clutch almost simultaneously. But not on the S197 (and also on the S550). If I want to shift at e.g. 2000 UPM, lift the gas and press the clutch in parallel, engine revs up to 2500. So I have to lift the pedal 2 10th earlier than pressing the clutch. It is like the lag when you press the gas pedal, but inverse.
I tried today what you've posted here w\ my car & sure enough, she did exactly what you said it would do.

But TBH, I had to really force myself to actually hold the APP slightly depressed while depressing the clutch.............guess I've always timed my coordination between clutch & throttle to be fully off APP at the moment I was depressing the clutch in, so I never ran into this scenario in times past before your mentioning of this..........

When I reverted back to my usual habit of working the APP w\ clutch I never had this happen again, so I guess my normal driving habit w\ my manual Stang is releasing the APP the 2\10 sec before depressing the clutch when up\down shifting........explains why I've never had this happen in times past.

Don't know how this helps you out but I see\understand now where you're coming from.
 

Laga

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2019
Posts
998
Reaction score
521
Location
Chicago
Yesterday, I hooked up Forscan and took the car for a drive. I discovered that the the APP was not responding during the first 2% of movement. I could tap the pedal lightly and there was no change in RPM unless the pedal went pass 2%. It was the same with the car moving or in park. I never noticed this before, so I have no idea how long it’s been this way. I’m assuming it’s been a long time and I just sensed it as normal. I have done the position calibration procedure in the past, but not recently. I’m going to play around with both old and new pedals today and see what happens.
 

GriffX

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Posts
529
Reaction score
180
I tried today what you've posted here w\ my car & sure enough, she did exactly what you said it would do.

But TBH, I had to really force myself to actually hold the APP slightly depressed while depressing the clutch.............guess I've always timed my coordination between clutch & throttle to be fully off APP at the moment I was depressing the clutch in, so I never ran into this scenario in times past before your mentioning of this..........

When I reverted back to my usual habit of working the APP w\ clutch I never had this happen again, so I guess my normal driving habit w\ my manual Stang is releasing the APP the 2\10 sec before depressing the clutch when up\down shifting........explains why I've never had this happen in times past.

Don't know how this helps you out but I see\understand now where you're coming from.
Thanks! So I know it's a programming issue. I guess I noticed this because all my other cars do not behave like this. In general, it looks like the ECU is not really optimized for manual transmissions.
Some time ago I found an other strange throttle behavior. Right after full engagement of the clutch you have a tiny rev drop. This drop lead to TB closing. So the pedal sensor was still 6-7% and the TB was 0 for fraction of a second, leading to a tiny jerk of the car. My tuner was able to fix this, now the TB stays open 6-7%.
All these things don't have a meaning for automatic, I think.
Next time I will live wire the pedal and look for the dead travel of the pedal, what Laga found.
 

Laga

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2019
Posts
998
Reaction score
521
Location
Chicago
I installed the new APP yesterday afternoon. I did the calibration procedure, but a no time was I able to get the CEL to flash. Maybe the tune is interfering, will try again tomorrow. I was not able to take it out for a drive, but the dead spot at the first 2% is gone. As soon as I touch the pedal, even very lightly, the rpm’s increase.
I took a closer look at the new APP and found the they missed some of the model numbers when they scrubbed them off.
02C876BC-AEB8-4AAA-88F7-C26E591B0CE4.jpeg
Original,
B90A957F-CE3C-423D-B8E6-AFDE295A5F7B.jpeg
So, at least part of the assembly is Ford parts. Looks like it will be about a week before weather allows a test run.
 

Laga

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2019
Posts
998
Reaction score
521
Location
Chicago
I installed the new APP yesterday afternoon. I did the calibration procedure, but a no time was I able to get the CEL to flash. Maybe the tune is interfering, will try again tomorrow. I was not able to take it out for a drive, but the dead spot at the first 2% is gone. As soon as I touch the pedal, even very lightly, the rpm’s increase.
I took a closer look at the new APP and found the they missed some of the model numbers when they scrubbed them off.
View attachment 85035
Original,
View attachment 85036
So, at least part of the assembly is Ford parts. Looks like it will be about a week before weather allows a test run.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top