What have you done to your mustang today?

[Joe combs]

Stacked more parts on the pile of parts to be installed(gathering parts for a whipple 2.3 install).

 

[Midlife Crises]

FINALLY

Damn! That sounds like a tough year long project. I’m prepping to freshen up my engine over the winter and I sure hope it goes smoother than that. Fortunately I can do most of the work myself.

 

[GlassTop09]

Just got my new Dummy OBDII Relocation harness installed so I can now perform driving datalogs w\o OBDII interface interference whatsoever:

Makes for a clean plug & play install wiring-wise.......no cutting or splicing needed, all excess cabling is tied up neatly under dash. To mount the relocated OBDII port on passenger side I had to make a special bracket out of some aluminum flat plate to keep the port tucked close under the dash (the normal L-shaped OBDII relocation port brackets allow the port to stick too far down below the dash line for my tastes)

& out of the way for passenger leg room then mount it all using some M6 x 20mm black anodized license plate bolts w\ black trim bolt head covers to give it a more custom look & got a black OBDII port cover to hide the pins so it all blends into the black (dark) background.

Tested all out.......all working as advertised. The fake OBDII port will power up any OBDII tool\interface attached to it but will not allow any connection to vehicle's DLC system (tool just searches for protocols to no avail) while the relocated real OBDII port operates normally.

When getting into car normally on passenger side, this relocated OBDII port is not visible thru normal line of sight........

Now off to start running VCM Scanner datalogs!

 

[Midlife Crises]

Now off to start running VCM Scanner datalogs!

That looks like a great way to prevent tanglefoot when dataloging.

 

[XJCasper]

Just got my new Dummy OBDII Relocation harness installed so I can now perform driving datalogs w\o OBDII interface interference whatsoever:
View attachment 84880 View attachment 84881
Makes for a clean plug & play install wiring-wise.......no cutting or splicing needed, all excess cabling is tied up neatly under dash. To mount the relocated OBDII port on passenger side I had to make a special bracket out of some aluminum flat plate to keep the port tucked close under the dash (the normal L-shaped OBDII relocation port brackets allow the port to stick too far down below the dash line for my tastes)
View attachment 84882 View attachment 84883
& out of the way for passenger leg room then mount it all using some M6 x 20mm black anodized license plate bolts w\ black trim bolt head covers to give it a more custom look & got a black OBDII port cover to hide the pins so it all blends into the black (dark) background.

Tested all out.......all working as advertised. The fake OBDII port will power up any OBDII tool\interface attached to it but will not allow any connection to vehicle's DLC system (tool just searches for protocols to no avail) while the relocated real OBDII port operates normally.

When getting into car normally on passenger side, this relocated OBDII port is not visible thru normal line of sight........

Now off to start running VCM Scanner datalogs!

I need to look closer at this. It is so difficult to do datalog pulls at 6'1", 330 lbs, with a size 15. Where did you pick up the plug?

Thank you

 

[GlassTop09]

That looks like a great way to prevent tanglefoot when dataloging.

Another reason why I went w\ this setup....in addition to not hitting the OBDII interface w\ my left knee while operating the clutch, having to rig up\rig down clearing the shifter\steering wheel, etc. A plug & play 1 & done install........no cutting, splicing of any wiring\ports & ain't gotta mess w\ it anymore once installed so it's always there to use when you need it. All located on the passenger side so laptop can sit in passenger seat so I can use my 12v outlet socket inside console storage to power laptop......keeping the driver side & console completely clear of cabling\obstructions thus free to navigate. The dummy OBDII port was extra.......wasn't looking for\needing it but it comes w\ this harness. Has a tangible purpose so it's not a total waste & maintains the full OEM interior look.

I need to look closer at this. It is so difficult to do datalog pulls at 6'1", 330 lbs, with a size 15. Where did you pick up the plug?

Thank you

Here is the web site:
Ford dummy OBD port relocation | Dummy OBD

This company resides in the UK & they build all types of OBDII relocation harnesses for all makes of vehicles to deter car theft (carjacking\thefts are rampant in the UK) ......couldn't find this or anything along this design anywhere in the US\NA continent.
This is the harness:
I ordered for a 2015- Mustang & sent them a picture of the existing factory OBDII port in my '09 GT so they would know which OEM port design to replicate for the dummy OBDII port so it will match\fit exactly in the same slot in dash as the original port (not all 2015 & up Mustangs use the same OEM OBDII port design.......). Total cost was $49.91 US dollars w\ free shipping to my house thru USPS. Took approx 2 1\2 to 3 wks shipping time to get it once order was processed.

The bracket for the relocated OBDII port I made to keep port tucked close to bottom of\slightly behind dash line so port will clear opened glove box but still allow a straight shot to plug into it. It also stiffens up the section of the ABS plastic dash trim I attached this port to (not enough metal dash area available to attach this port to & clear glove box) so the setup is very sturdy when all is tightened up. 2" x 3" flat aluminum plate bent into a 40* angle at 3\4" (to allow for the OBDII port to mount..... port mount is 2-3\4" L x 1\2" W) then used the rest (1-1\4") to mount onto the OEM ABS plastic dash trim using M6 rivnuts in bracket.

Don't waste time trying to use the ABS plastic OBDII relocation brackets found on Amazon as they're too flimsy...............

Hope this helps.

PS edit--Forgot to mention......I used some dielectric grease on the OBDII harness female connector pins to coat all when plugged into the vehicle's OEM male port to protect from any chance of oxidation since I don't plan on removing this harness. I also used some 3M electrical tape & securely taped this connection together to further secure it.

 

[Andrey Sidorov]

Redone the stupid piping for procharger, that rusts faster then the time it takes to install it

 

[dustindu4]

I took it out for a drive and beat on it some...

 

[GlassTop09]

Replaced my 14 yr old worn out GT accelerator pedal sensor assembly (FoMoCo part# 8R3A-9F836-BA......while running\playback VCM Scanner datalogs I noted the APP signal spiking frequently at the at-rest position & not tracking very steady at the lower APP positions off at-rest--not bad enough to set off any DTC's but bad enough to see.....I knew it wasn't an IF but WHEN scenario so I got ahead of it) w\ what I thought was an aftermarket Standard Products APS271 '09 GT accelerator pedal sensor assembly w\ the 07-10 GT500 metal foot pad added onto it ordered off Rock Auto......but what came out of the box was a brand new genuine FoMoCo part# 8R3A-9F836-AA 07-10 GT500\GT500KR accelerator pedal sensor assembly complete w\ replaceable metal foot pad!

Pedal installs\bolts up w\o issue........R&R 3-10mm nuts & 1 connector (applied dielectric grease to all connector pins to deter any chance of oxidation\corrosion formation) & then performed KOEO APP recalibration (let PCM recalibrate to APP at-rest signal then slowly depress APP to calibrate APP signal smoothly to APP full range then slowly release APP to retrace signal tracking from full range back to at-rest) a couple of times just because (the 1st time was enough) then started car up to take on a test drive after warmup.

All went excellent. 1st thing out the gate.......this APP ain't got no flat spots in the signal generation off the at-rest position.......I swear if you breathe on the damn thing the engine will respond! And I LOVE IT.........makes driving a manual trans using a hydraulic clutch w\ DBW throttle control much, much easier to time clutch engagements to engine response w\o flaring the engine RPM's.

Highly recommend it as a std APP replacement part for all 05-10 base & GT S197's..........if you can still find them. I cross referenced the part# on 2 Ford dealership's online stores & it came back as discontinued then referenced to the std APP part# 4R3Z-9F836-BD that matches the part# 8R3A-9F836-BA but is shown to fit all 05-10 MY Base, GT, Bullitt, Shelby GT, Shelby GT500\GT500KR (4.0L, 4.6L & 5.4L) cars.......................

FYI.......................

 

[GriffX]

All went excellent. 1st thing out the gate.......this APP ain't got no flat spots in the signal generation off the at-rest position.......I swear if you breathe on the damn thing the engine will respond! And I LOVE IT.........makes driving a manual trans using a hydraulic clutch w\ DBW throttle control much, much easier to time clutch engagements to engine response w\o flaring the engine RPM's.
FYI.......................

Thanks!
Most annoying with the manual trans is that I have to lift the APP 2/10 second before I press the clutch to avoid an engine rev-up. Has this changed too?

 

[GlassTop09]

Thanks!
Most annoying with the manual trans is that I have to lift the APP 2/10 second before I press the clutch to avoid an engine rev-up. Has this changed too?

Hi Griffx,

I can't say as I've never experienced (or am fully understanding) what you're posting concerning this w\ a manual.........if I'm understanding what you typed.......you're saying that if you didn't lift slightly off APP prior clutch disengagement (clutch switch signal informing PCM of this action upon initiation) that the engine RPM's would rev up excessively from APP A\D counts being more than .000 thus informing PCM to open TB BF's more even though PCM also knows that clutch is being depressed..........correct?

If this is what you're referring to, then I haven't experienced that, either w\ old APP or w\ this new APP but I also actually lift off the APP just before clutch disengagement as a normal practice so maybe this is why I haven't experienced this.........or never paid much attention to if it did occur.

I'll try to remember next outing to try holding APP in position then depress clutch to see if what you've described occurs or not.

 

[GriffX]

Right. On all my other cars I lift the gas pedal and press the clutch almost simultaneously. But not on the S197 (and also on the S550). If I want to shift at e.g. 2000 UPM, lift the gas and press the clutch in parallel, engine revs up to 2500. So I have to lift the pedal 2 10th earlier than pressing the clutch. It is like the lag when you press the gas pedal, but inverse.

 

[GlassTop09]

Right. On all my other cars I lift the gas pedal and press the clutch almost simultaneously. But not on the S197 (and also on the S550). If I want to shift at e.g. 2000 UPM, lift the gas and press the clutch in parallel, engine revs up to 2500. So I have to lift the pedal 2 10th earlier than pressing the clutch. It is like the lag when you press the gas pedal, but inverse.

Ok...........I'll look into this on my end & will post back what I find out.

 

[GlassTop09]

Right. On all my other cars I lift the gas pedal and press the clutch almost simultaneously. But not on the S197 (and also on the S550). If I want to shift at e.g. 2000 UPM, lift the gas and press the clutch in parallel, engine revs up to 2500. So I have to lift the pedal 2 10th earlier than pressing the clutch. It is like the lag when you press the gas pedal, but inverse.

I tried today what you've posted here w\ my car & sure enough, she did exactly what you said it would do.

But TBH, I had to really force myself to actually hold the APP slightly depressed while depressing the clutch.............guess I've always timed my coordination between clutch & throttle to be fully off APP at the moment I was depressing the clutch in, so I never ran into this scenario in times past before your mentioning of this..........

When I reverted back to my usual habit of working the APP w\ clutch I never had this happen again, so I guess my normal driving habit w\ my manual Stang is releasing the APP the 2\10 sec before depressing the clutch when up\down shifting........explains why I've never had this happen in times past.

Don't know how this helps you out but I see\understand now where you're coming from.

 

[Laga]

Yesterday, I hooked up Forscan and took the car for a drive. I discovered that the the APP was not responding during the first 2% of movement. I could tap the pedal lightly and there was no change in RPM unless the pedal went pass 2%. It was the same with the car moving or in park. I never noticed this before, so I have no idea how long it’s been this way. I’m assuming it’s been a long time and I just sensed it as normal. I have done the position calibration procedure in the past, but not recently. I’m going to play around with both old and new pedals today and see what happens.

 

[GriffX]

I tried today what you've posted here w\ my car & sure enough, she did exactly what you said it would do.

But TBH, I had to really force myself to actually hold the APP slightly depressed while depressing the clutch.............guess I've always timed my coordination between clutch & throttle to be fully off APP at the moment I was depressing the clutch in, so I never ran into this scenario in times past before your mentioning of this..........

When I reverted back to my usual habit of working the APP w\ clutch I never had this happen again, so I guess my normal driving habit w\ my manual Stang is releasing the APP the 2\10 sec before depressing the clutch when up\down shifting........explains why I've never had this happen in times past.

Don't know how this helps you out but I see\understand now where you're coming from.

Thanks! So I know it's a programming issue. I guess I noticed this because all my other cars do not behave like this. In general, it looks like the ECU is not really optimized for manual transmissions.
Some time ago I found an other strange throttle behavior. Right after full engagement of the clutch you have a tiny rev drop. This drop lead to TB closing. So the pedal sensor was still 6-7% and the TB was 0 for fraction of a second, leading to a tiny jerk of the car. My tuner was able to fix this, now the TB stays open 6-7%.
All these things don't have a meaning for automatic, I think.
Next time I will live wire the pedal and look for the dead travel of the pedal, what Laga found.

 

[Laga]

I installed the new APP yesterday afternoon. I did the calibration procedure, but a no time was I able to get the CEL to flash. Maybe the tune is interfering, will try again tomorrow. I was not able to take it out for a drive, but the dead spot at the first 2% is gone. As soon as I touch the pedal, even very lightly, the rpm’s increase.
I took a closer look at the new APP and found the they missed some of the model numbers when they scrubbed them off.

Original,

So, at least part of the assembly is Ford parts. Looks like it will be about a week before weather allows a test run.

 

[Laga]

I installed the new APP yesterday afternoon. I did the calibration procedure, but a no time was I able to get the CEL to flash. Maybe the tune is interfering, will try again tomorrow. I was not able to take it out for a drive, but the dead spot at the first 2% is gone. As soon as I touch the pedal, even very lightly, the rpm’s increase.
I took a closer look at the new APP and found the they missed some of the model numbers when they scrubbed them off.
View attachment 85035
Original,
View attachment 85036
So, at least part of the assembly is Ford parts. Looks like it will be about a week before weather allows a test run.

 

[GlassTop09]

I did the calibration procedure, but a no time was I able to get the CEL to flash. Maybe the tune is interfering, will try again tomorrow.

As long as you performed the initial KOEO APP calibration procedure, you should be good to go (there's no section in any of these '05-'10 SO PCM tune files to calibrate an APP........the PCM automatically does this on every KOEO). As for the MIL light thing, this may just be a feature that your '05 GT SO PCM's calibration may not have (appears starting in the '08 MY thru '10 MY, Ford made some changes\enhancements in these GT SO PCM's base calibrations that do not exist in the earlier '05-'07 GT SO PCM calibrations......the KOEO self-check MIL light signaling may be 1 of them.......I had to stop using all OEM '05-'07 SO PCM tune files as references after finding this out & only use '08-'10 SO PCM tune files for referencing w\ my '09 SO PCM as some of the setup\settings are different) & my '09 SO PCM's calibration has (this occurred after my KS harness\CMCV actuator\position sensor reinstall.......when I replaced my APP--did this prior KS replace\CMCV actuator\position sensor reinstall job--& ran the KOEO APP calibration my MIL light did not flash either).

Interesting that your new APP also demonstrates to have no dead spot(s) in any off-rest movements of APP pedal arm..........kinda starts to point to verification that Ford corrected this anomaly in all FoMoCo replacement APP's..............

 

[07 Boss]

Something I did when I first got my car was to get rid of the dead spot on initial press of the pedal. I shimmed the pedal arm against the housing with some foam tape which I later replaced with lead tape. Anyways the pedal assembly is just a typical potentiometer and there may be a physical dead spot before the unit senses the pedal moving because the little brushes are not properly contacting the metal strips. I have heard of some people bending the brushes s bit but this seemed like an easier way to fix the pedal lag. You don't have to worry about shimming it too far because the throttle will calibrate itself to read the new pedal position as idle.





I just but a brick on the pedal and shimmed it until I thought it was good. Ended up adding a second piece of tape and then eventually replacing it with lead tape to make it a little more solid. Also be careful you don't dislodge the brick holding the pedal as it can smack you pretty hard in the face while your down there. Don't ask me how I know this.