What have you done to your mustang today?

Jwood562

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IMG_5824.jpeg I finally got around to doing some more body work on my fully shaved trunk lid, just reminds me how daunting body work can be, I finally think the panel is smooth, pin holes and other spots pop up.

repeat and repeat
 
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GriffX

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View attachment 87025 I finally got around to doing some more body work on my fully shaved trunk lid, just reminds me how daunting body work can be, I finally think the panel is smooth, pin holes and other spots pop up.

repeat and repeat
Nice! How did you filled up the 3rd brake light space?

I just painted the right side from the rear bumper cover, for the 4th time some ..... scratched it in a parking lot and drove away....

Used a new 2K clear coat spray can and produced orange peel :( so.... wet sanding for hours and had to fill up some silicon holes :banghead: Not my best work, but good locking from far.

Tip to paint small areas with a spray can, get some skinny caps form a graffiti store
 

Jwood562

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Nice! How did you filled up the 3rd brake light space?

I just painted the right side from the rear bumper cover, for the 4th time some ..... scratched it in a parking lot and drove away....

Used a new 2K clear coat spray can and produced orange peel :( so.... wet sanding for hours and had to fill up some silicon holes :banghead: Not my best work, but good locking from far.

Tip to paint small areas with a spray can, get some skinny caps form a graffiti store

thanks, for the 3rd brake light I just got a piece of sheet metal and used metal snips to cut it out, pretty easy as the 3rd brake light hole has a nice lip/flange for the sheet metal to sit.

for the holes left from the key hole and emblem, I bought some round premade sheet metal plugs from east wood and jut used a unibit to open the holes up to the plug size

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-75-inch-replacement-sheet-metal-plugs-10-pack-hole.html
 

AHaze

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Finally got it out of winter storage then realized I had removed all the badges last fall with the intention of refinishing them over the winter. That got forgotten so it's happening now.
View media item 8814They actually look pretty good after sandblasting. Almost like raw aluminum. If I had used a finer blasting media, I probably could have just cleared them.
 

JC SSP

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Daughter said the GT was running rough at idle but only on a few occasions. No CEL just every so often.

Did the usual, visual inspection then voltmeter on battery and while running... Checked for vacuum leaks and loose wires, etc. So far nothing found and the car is running good...

Decided to check the sparks plugs... noticed coil was loose. Tried to tighten it down and bolt just spins. I quickly realized the aluminum valve cover boss is split (over tightening, corrosion, heat?). Checked the other 8 plugs and notice another coil is loose. I tie-strapped them down and will epoxy the holes and re-tap next week. Also, after 30K+ miles I will change the Brisk 3VR14S, but not sure if there are any other options? I had Autolite HT0 on my 06' GT and they performed well. Any input or recommendation would greatly be apricated.

IMG_2229.jpg

IMG_2230.jpg
 

Jwood562

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I got my valve covers back from powder coating. flat red finish. looks awesome.

then I realized the blasting debris inside including the baffles. I quickly dove into the rabbit hole of the nightmares of blasting debris under baffles. I might be drilling out the rivets, removing baffles, drilling and tapping.....
 

EBABlacknChrome

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Started installing my duel fuel pump but hit a wall. Seems to be missing some connector but there's no actual parts list. Up next is the rear suspension.
447846f2699386b9bdda72ae9b742a2b.jpg


Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 

Jwood562

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I got around to placing some killmat sound deadener in my trunk and went toward under the rear seat.

up next is the entire floor.

This was the biggest bang for my buck in my tundra, I did all 4 doors, double layer on floor, back wall. biggest differnence for $200 i ever did
 

GlassTop09

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Test drove tonight to see if recent work done earlier today (found BEC #54 fuse 20A blade terminals--12v+ to LFT HID light ballast when SBJ low beam headlamp control power is sent to LFT HID light relay--were oxidizing causing potential excess current droop to LFT HID ballast causing ballast to prematurely overheat thus drop out.....RT HID operates flawless. Cleaned both fuse blade terminals & BEC socket terminals of fuse #54 & #55--found #55 fuse was oxidizing as well). Drove car for 1hr 45 mins running HID's on both low\hi beam & LFT HID light operated just as flawless this time as the RT HID has always done so I just might have this rectified.
More testing to attain firm confirmation of repair but looking very promising so far.

Also ran OBDII live data\Mode 6 Self-Check data to check on engine component operations at end of HID light testing prior shutdown since self-tuning was finished 2-24-23 as follows using my trusty Foxwell NT301 scan tool:
Mode 6 Cat CE Ratio:
B1 @ .133.....idle LTFT @ 0.0% (high threshold @ .660).....pass
B2 @ .129.....idle LTFT @ 0.0% (high threshold @ .660).....pass
CMBT @ 1,034*F (at 740 RPM idle in neutral before engine shutdown.....MF #5461336 CARB EO#D-193-140 TWC cats)
Mode 6 B1S1\B2S1 O2 Sensor Amplitude Check results:
B1S1 @ .8375 (low threshold @ .5737).....pass
B2S1 @ .8425 (low threshold @ .5752).....pass
Mode 6 B1S2\B2S2 O2 Sensor LTR\RTL V\ms Transition results:
B1S2 LTR V\ms Transition @ .16 (low threshold @ .07)....pass
B1S2 RTL V\ms Transition @ .18 (low threshold @ .07)....pass
B2S2 LTR V\ms Transition @ .09 (low threshold @ .07)....pass
B2S2 RTL V\ms Transition @ .16 (low threshold @ .12)....pass
I\M Readiness Checks.....all continuous\non-continuous monitors completed.......pass

Looking good to date.
 

DieHarder

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Daughter said the GT was running rough at idle but only on a few occasions. No CEL just every so often.

Did the usual, visual inspection then voltmeter on battery and while running... Checked for vacuum leaks and loose wires, etc. So far nothing found and the car is running good...

Decided to check the sparks plugs... noticed coil was loose. Tried to tighten it down and bolt just spins. I quickly realized the aluminum valve cover boss is split (over tightening, corrosion, heat?). Checked the other 8 plugs and notice another coil is loose. I tie-strapped them down and will epoxy the holes and re-tap next week. Also, after 30K+ miles I will change the Brisk 3VR14S, but not sure if there are any other options? I had Autolite HT0 on my 06' GT and they performed well. Any input or recommendation would greatly be apricated.

View attachment 87079

View attachment 87080

Just a recommendation....you might want to vacuum out the dirt around those plugs holes (or blow them out thoroughly before removing the plugs). Sand doesn't do engines any favors. Actually your plugs look good. Just wire wheel them and check/reset gaps and they should be good to go. Brisk are expensive but IMHO the best you can get then probably Autolite.
 

JC SSP

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You are correct, Those Brisks are still good but time for a fresh set. Just ordered the HT0 from Amazon $68.00.

I will fill in and then tap out the two coil bosses too.
 

moooosestang

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View attachment 87025 I finally got around to doing some more body work on my fully shaved trunk lid, just reminds me how daunting body work can be, I finally think the panel is smooth, pin holes and other spots pop up.

repeat and repeat
Body work is a bitch! I recently tried to fill a bunch of chips before i wrapped my hood. I had to do it again because i had some nasty high spots in my primer. it's still not perfect, but it's passable now at least.
 

rocky61201

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Finally got tired of not being able to hook up my iphone and play Spotify and even plug in a thumb drive on my shaker 500. Over the last two weeks I installed a new Kenwood touchscreen multi media deck, 4 Kenwood 6 x 8's, and 2 Skar Audio 8in subs in the doors. Running a Hifonics Brutus Gamma 1000w 4 channel AMP to power the 6 x 8s and a Skar Audio Monoblock AMP to power the subs. The Skar Audio 8in subs are shallow mount but I still had to do some dremel tool surgery on the inside door panel to make them fit.
 
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JC SSP

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Changed spark plugs and repaired valve cover bosses with JB weld.

Before
IMG_2280.jpeg

After

IMG_2310.jpeg

So what’s interesting is… my machine shop guy where I got the special 5mm tap said this is due to arching from the coils. Never heard of this before? I cleaned everything, sanded all metal and applied die electric grease. I hope this resolves the problem.
 

XJCasper

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Finally got tired of not being able to hook up my iphone and play Spotify and even plug in a thumb drive on my shaker 500. Over the last two weeks I installed a new Kenwood touchscreen multi media deck, 4 Kenwood 6 x 8's, and 2 Skar Audio 8in subs in the doors. Running a Hifonics Brutus Gamma 1000w 4 channel AMP to power the 6 x 8s and a Skar Audio Monoblock AMP to power the subs. The Skar Audio 8in subs are shallow mount but I still had to do some dremel tool surgery on the inside door panel to make them fit.

Ah dang. They worked. Was debating the 8" Skars. I am gonna throw a set of 6.5" speakers in the 8" slot.
 

dark steed

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Watched it go out of the driveway as my daughter borrowed it yet again. Her boyfriend managed to drop a tree on her Ford Edge and totaled it. I told him if he dropped a tree on my Mustang we were going to have a serious problem.


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