What have you done to your mustang today?

[graybeard]

Here is another photo of the new wheels and tires.

I road tested the new wheels and tires both in city driving and on a recently repaved section of I385.

The car runs smoother and quieter than with the 20" Nittos.
Apparently, the Nittos were generating road noise.

The new wheels and tires are glassy smooth; there does NOT appear to be any out-of-concentricity problem.

I also like the sound of the new exhaust system, in city and on the highway.

I have some regrets about the tire size. Next time, the wheeis will be mounted with:
CORRECTION:
(Was: 255/55/R18)
Now: 255/50/R18's.

 

[graybeard]

What have I done today......?

Decided to check the wheel lug torques per mfg'rs recommendation.

Went to a tool store to price out a click-stop torque wrench. $150. Spotted an electronic adaptor to attach to a breaker bar for $45. Never have used one, but I bought it anyway.

if it's accurate, for occassional use it's OK.

All lug nuts were between 97-99 ft. lbs. Then the lugs were torqued to 100 ft. lbs.

I plan on having the lugs checked at a shop to verify if this adaptor is accurate.

 

[GriffX]

What have I done today......?

Decided to check the wheel lug torques per mfg'rs recommendation.

Went to a tool store to price out a click-stop torque wrench. $150. Spotted an electronic adaptor to attach to a breaker bar for $45. Never have used one, but I bought it anyway.

if it's accurate, for occassional use it's OK.

All lug nuts were between 97-99 ft. lbs. Then the lugs were torqued to 100 ft. lbs.

I plan on having the lugs checked at a shop to verify if this adaptor is accurate.

Remember when you check the torque of a wheel nut and the nut does not move, the actual torque value of it can still be lower than spec. You must overcome the sticking friction for moving it and the torque spec is a value for a stop out of sliding friction. (German cars have usually wheel bolts and I had some coming lose all the time because of rust powder in the threads leading to a higher sliding friction than usual. I torqued them to 110 Nm spec, but in reality it was much lower)

 

[06GT-]

I had those Steeda rails on my old 06 GT convertible and they worked perfectly for jacking, support the car and even improved structural rigidity.

I currently have ladder style welded subframe connectors on my 05 GT and also use them to jack up and support the car.

Which subframe connectors do you have? Do you recommend them?

 

[JC SSP]

I put subframe connector on all my cars, even had some custom made for Ford Taurus!

I have the Granatelli welded ladder bar style on my 05' GT for over 10+ years. There are many options available, including BMR, UMI, Stifflers, etc.

 

[graybeard]

What have I done today......?

Decided to check the wheel lug torques per mfg'rs recommendation.

Went to a tool store to price out a click-stop torque wrench. $150. Spotted an electronic adaptor to attach to a breaker bar for $45. Never have used one, but I bought it anyway.

if it's accurate, for occassional use it's OK.

All lug nuts were between 97-99 ft. lbs. Then the lugs were torqued to 100 ft. lbs.

I plan on having the lugs checked at a shop to verify if this adaptor is accurate.

Here is the torque adaptor.

 

[JC SSP]

That’s cool. Does it do angle torque too?

 

[graybeard]

That’s cool. Does it do angle torque too?

No. I don't think a standard click-stop will do that either.

Have you ever tried to angle torque cylinder head bolts with the engine in the car? And be able to read the angle accurately?

 

[JC SSP]

I have only used ARP bolts and studs which only use standard torque specifications.

 

[ryunker]

Here is the torque adaptor.

View attachment 114222

The issue with lug nuts is wheels are installed with an impact gun most of the time and are put on way to tight. The reason for a torque spec is to avoid that. So, in reality loosen the nuts a bit with the wheel off the ground and retighten with your device.

In a perfect world shops should be using the correct torque limiting stick to install the tires, then torque to spec. in reality most folks that install wheels have no clue the different color torque sticks are for different specs and wheels are consistently over torqued. There are some out there that are educated and understand but trust me a very small percentage.

 

[Blue03Cobra]

Did front wheel hubs. Service manual said replace "wheel bearings" at 120K and my car just turned 123K. Only surprise was all the data pointed to 36mm, for the nut. What I believe to be the factory nut on the car, has a retainer ring (pictured) and actually took a 35mm socket, as the retainer was loose with 36mm.



The replacement (many references said the OEMs were single use) was clearly 36mm (and brass, with no retainer ring).



While the wheels had no play, there was some high speed braking wobble in the steering wheel (braking from around 60 MPH was the most noticeable), I could get the old hubs to "rattle", when shaking, once off the car:



Went with the Detroit Axle replacements and they went right on with no issues. Car drives much better now...but the LCAs are next...

 

[GriffX]

and brass

Pretty sure it is yellow chromate and not brass.

 

[graybeard]

What did I do to the Mustang today?

Purchased a set of Bimecc plastic hub rings from Discount Tire ($5) yesterday, and installed them this afternoon. The rings fit well (after removing some rust from the hub and washing with brake cleaner).

Road tested the GT after installation.

I cannot tell any difference between wiith or without the hub rings. I plan on using the rings to ensure concentricity.

 

[graybeard]

What about today....?

Yesterday: Inspected and aired spare tire. Was: 0 psi; Now: 55 psi.

The spare and the jack have never been used. An OEM instruction sheet was on top of the spare tire.

Good to go.

 

[Gabe]

Drove mine for the first time this year, took it to work. Was a nice change from the truck or my wife's wagon which is our newest car and a fun little thing, but it isn't my Mustang.

Hit a nice mileage milestone

 

[JC SSP]

Hood was starting to fade so took it to a local body shop and had it and the front bumper resprayed & blended. Came out perfect and happy with the results. I will say with my old body guy retiring finding a reputable shop was a big mission.

Before





After

 

[graybeard]

Hood was starting to fade so took it to a local body shop and had it and the front bumper resprayed & blended. Came out perfect and happy with the results. I will say with my old body guy retiring finding a reputable shop was a big mission.

Before
View attachment 114361View attachment 114362




After
View attachment 114364View attachment 114365View attachment 114363

I like that colour and the wheels
.
Have not seen any Mustangs around here (Upcountry, S.C.) with that colour.

Very nice.

 

[JC SSP]

Thank you buddy. Its Mineral Grey and 05' is the only year on GT. They did paint GT500 05-09 in that color.

 

[MrBhp]

Here is another photo of the new wheels and tires.

I road tested the new wheels and tires both in city driving and on a recently repaved section of I385.

The car runs smoother and quieter than with the 20" Nittos.
Apparently, the Nittos were generating road noise.

The new wheels and tires are glassy smooth; there does NOT appear to be any out-of-concentricity problem.

I also like the sound of the new exhaust system, in city and on the highway.

I have some regrets about the tire size. Next time, the wheeis will be mounted with:
CORRECTION:
(Was: 255/55/R18)
Now: 255/50/R18's.

View attachment 114175

I normally don't like those wheels, but man, they work really well with that color. Nice job!

 

[Gabe]

Thank you buddy. Its Mineral Grey and 05' is the only year on GT. They did paint GT500 05-09 in that color.

Umm, no GT500 was available in '05-'06, and no GT500s were painted in Mineral Gray.
You might be thinking of Alloy Gray.