What have you done to your mustang today?

[JC SSP]

My mistake… thought the GT500 07-09 came it that color.

 

[Gabe]

My mistake… thought the GT500 07-09 came it that color.

No problem. Mineral is a cool color, with the GT500 was available in it!

 

[brasil]

Did front wheel hubs. Service manual said replace "wheel bearings" at 120K and my car just turned 123K. Only surprise was all the data pointed to 36mm, for the nut. What I believe to be the factory nut on the car, has a retainer ring (pictured) and actually took a 35mm socket, as the retainer was loose with 36mm.

View attachment 114255

The replacement (many references said the OEMs were single use) was clearly 36mm (and brass, with no retainer ring).

View attachment 114256

While the wheels had no play, there was some high speed braking wobble in the steering wheel (braking from around 60 MPH was the most noticeable), I could get the old hubs to "rattle", when shaking, once off the car:

View attachment 114257

Went with the Detroit Axle replacements and they went right on with no issues. Car drives much better now...but the LCAs are next...

View attachment 114258

.I am. sorry to tell you, that the new look nut will kill your spindles , when you need to change the wheel bearings again . These nuts are trash !
They grap deeply into the threads .. to look . But on the way back ( undo the nut ) they start to widen the thread

They only nut to use is the OEM Nut from Ford .

 

[cavero]

Hood was starting to fade so took it to a local body shop and had it and the front bumper resprayed & blended. Came out perfect and happy with the results. I will say with my old body guy retiring finding a reputable shop was a big mission.

Before
View attachment 114361View attachment 114362




After
View attachment 114364View attachment 114365View attachment 114363

Wow she looks just about mint now

 

[cavero]

Dropped mine off at the shop yesterday to fix a couple issues with the tune. Realize this is way too long for most people to read, I got carried away.

Back over the summer they handed it off to a 2nd tuner they work with to try to fix some throttle issues which they got mostly worked out. It still has a delay after you lift off the pedal before it starts decelerating. I found one thread from years ago saying it was emissions related, but the shop said they looked at everything and can't figure out why it's doing it.

https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/engine-braking-lack-of.553123/

But that's not what this trip to the shop is for -- ever since they worked out the other throttle issues I noticed two problems:
1) as I was cycling through gauges on Torque, I saw the rear O2 sensors aren't reporting at all (not voltage, not temperature).
2) was people were flying by me on the highway even though I was going ..uh... responsibly... over the speed limit.

We'd gotten the tune sorted out in 2020 regarding the O2's because my state changed its emissions rules and I needed all the factory monitors to pass. I'm guessing this other tuner turned them off again (maybe to avoid CEL's while troubleshooting the other issues).

The second, I suspected he'd also reverted me either back to the stock 3.55 final drive in the tune (I've got 3.73 installed), or the stock revs/mi for the tires (745, vs the ones I've got now are 775). The shop locked both of those options out of the tune, so I had to wait till they could get me in to check. So I did some math on it while I was waiting, did some data logging, gettingthe ABS wheel speeds, RPM, GPS speed, and the VSS. The way the math works out, it could be either one, although the difference between the WS and GPS, and the difference between WS and VSS has me suspecting either. I'm not expecting everything to be right on the money, but I want it to be closer than it is. My needle's always pointed higher than what the OBD speed said, so adding the two on top of eachother, and instead of the usual 2-3 mph over actual, the needle's reading like 6-8 over.

[FORD]ABS Wheel Speed 1(mph)	[FORD]ABS Wheel Speed 2(mph)	[FORD]ABS Wheel Speed 3(mph)	[FORD]ABS Wheel Speed 4(mph)	Speed (GPS)(mph)	Speed (OBD)(mph)
71.46​	71.46​	71.46​	71.46​	72.39​	74.56​

I did some math from the GPS to get engine RPM, then I plugged the RPM the other way while messing with the final drive and revs/mi

Here's with the wrong final drive but right(ish) revs/mi (the last one I remember loading in from my old summer tires). You can see the ~ 75mph lines up with the 74.56 the speedometer calc from the OBDII above:

Final drive

Tire Revs/mi

Gear

3.55​

780​

RPM

1​

2​

3​

4​

5​

6​

1​

2​

3​

4​

5​

6​

1​

2​

3​

4​

5​

6​

2.97​

2.07​

1.43​

1​

0.8​

0.62​

2162.368​

728.0700337​

1044.62222​

1512.145​

2162.368​

2702.96​

3487.69​

205.0902​

294.2598​

425.9565​

609.1177​

761.3972​

982.448​

15.77617​

22.63537​

32.76588​

46.85521​

58.56901​

## 75.57292 ##​

And here's leaving the final drive ratio alone and setting the tire revs/mi back to stock
Again, it's really close to the GPS speed.

Final drive

Tire Revs/mi

Gear

3.73​

745​

RPM

1​

2​

3​

4​

5​

6​

1​

2​

3​

4​

5​

6​

1​

2​

3​

4​

5​

6​

2.97​

2.07​

1.43​

1​

0.8​

0.62​

2162.368​

728.0700337​

1044.62222​

1512.145​

2162.368​

2702.96​

3487.69​

195.193​

280.0596​

405.4009​

579.7233​

724.6542​

935.0376​

15.72024​

22.55513​

32.64974​

46.68913​

58.36141​

## 75.30504 ##​

Annoys the crap out of me that they keep these settings locked down on the tuner. My old XCAL2 I could change everything from revs/mi to speed limiter to the temp the radiator fans would come on at. Here I'm at the mercy of when the shop has time to get me in to look at it. Been seeing some of these other threads about tuning ourselves and I gotta admit I'm tempted.

Don't get me wrong, I love the shop I take the car to, they've great people, very knowledgable, and do great work. But man I wish I could tweak some of these things myself.

 

[GriffX]

Changed MTF - what a mess, what a pain, once in a lifetime will never do this again. Used an electric oil pump and a 100 ml syringe to adjust it to the recommended 0.5 inch below the fill plug level. Was surprised that the drain plug wasn't magnetic - I would appreciate one

BTW: Normal thread locking glue seems not to do anything in this oil contaminated threads. I guess you need a special type, if any. I marked the plug position before removing and it's on an other position now (+ 1/4 turn) with 27 Nm than from factory.

 

[Blue03Cobra]

.I am. sorry to tell you, that the new look nut will kill your spindles , when you need to change the wheel bearings again . These nuts are trash !
They grap deeply into the threads .. to look . But on the way back ( undo the nut ) they start to widen the thread

They only nut to use is the OEM Nut from Ford .

Good advice, but if I ever have to do this again (at, what, 240,000 miles), I'll change the spindles, as well. Likelihood, considering I only put about 5,000 miles a year are near zero...

 

[cavero]

Changed MTF - what a mess, what a pain, once in a lifetime will never do this again. Used an electric oil pump and a 100 ml syringe to adjust it to the recommended 0.5 inch below the fill plug level. Was surprised that the drain plug wasn't magnetic - I would appreciate one

BTW: Normal thread locking glue seems not to do anything in this oil contaminated threads. I guess you need a special type, if any. I marked the plug position before removing and it's on an other position now (+ 1/4 turn) with 27 Nm than from factory.

You could probably spray a rag with brake clean and wipe the threads

 

[2008_ScarlettGT]

Took the coyote swap for its first drive today. Needs lots of tuning but it ran and shifted well. I consider it a win for a base tune and the maiden voyage!

 

[86GT351]

Moving along on the Scott Rod Panel install and underhood cleaning

 

[Samos3]

Saturday:
Went to the junkyard the other day. Mostly to see how hard it is to replace the mode motor behind the cluster. Difficult, but not impossible. Easier to learn on junkyard cars and not break my stuff.

The car I was futzing around in was a v6 with the My-Color 6 gauge dash. So I had to get that. Not for my car, but for ebay. Same for the INFO button set.

Looked under the hood, just because, you know?....JLT 3.0 Oil Separator just sitting there waiting for me. It's was a passenger side V6 version.

All said, $84.

Sunday:

Tested the gauges in my car. Everything works. Played with my hvac controls. The motor behind the cluster is NOT the one clicking! Hooray!.....I think.

Gauges and buttons listed on Ebay.

Cleaned up the JLT can, trimmed the hoses a bit and it fit right in place on the drivers side of the 4.6.

When the gauges/buttons sell, I should be up $20-50 with a free oil separator.

Friday I hope to return and grab the very nice leather wrapped premium steering wheel.

 

[graybeard]

What has been done today.....

Last week a local shop gave me a written quote for labour to replace the driver's side upstream O2 sensor. I already had a new Walker Prod. O2 left over from the exhaust system job. This local mechanic shop said they were willing to use mine if I paid the labour. They quoted $181 labour. No.

Today I started removing the old O2 sensor. The only thing moved to access it was the vacuum hose to the brake booster.

After disconnecting the pigtail from the wire harness, and clipping the old pigtail, a 7/8" deep 6-point impact socket went over the sensor fine.

I could not get it to loosen It is really stuck in the exhaust manifold. I plan on working on it again tomorrow.

 

[Blue03Cobra]

I could not get it to loosen It is really stuck in the exhaust manifold. I plan on working on it again tomorrow.

Penetrant (your choice, I use PB Blaster) and a torch are your friends. The sensors have been heat cycled a gazillion times and can be a real bear to budge. Sometimes slightly  tightening them, after treatment, can help break them loose. Now that the wire's cut, an impact is also a good idea... Best of luck!

 

[Samos3]

Penetrant (your choice, I use PB Blaster) and a torch are your friends. The sensors have been heat cycled a gazillion times and can be a real bear to budge. Sometimes slightly  tightening them, after treatment, can help break them loose. Now that the wire's cut, an impact is also a good idea... Best of luck!

The added benefit of slightly tightening is that if the wrench flats start to round off, you find out before you mess them up in the loosening direction. Gives you a second chance...

 

[Forty61]

I have been putting off messing with my brakes but last night I got the kids in their rooms and went out to mess with it.. all I did was roll the car back and forth in the driveway and work the brakes to see how they behave.

First press of the pedal is soft, pump them a couple times and they firm up. Rolling forward and stopping is not confidence inspiring but backwards they're pretty firm for whatever reason.. handbrake needs adjustment on how far the handle moves but when engaged it will hold the car even with the clutch partially engaged. That all leads me to believe the first thing I need to do is a simple bleed of the system so that's my next step when I find the time and motivation to jack the damn thing up!

 

[graybeard]

What has been done today.....

Last week a local shop gave me a written quote for labour to replace the driver's side upstream O2 sensor. I already had a new Walker Prod. O2 left over from the exhaust system job. This local mechanic shop said they were willing to use mine if I paid the labour. They quoted $181 labour. No.

Today I started removing the old O2 sensor. The only thing moved to access it was the vacuum hose to the brake booster.

After disconnecting the pigtail from the wire harness, and clipping the old pigtail, a 7/8" deep 6-point impact socket went over the sensor fine.

I could not get it to loosen It is really stuck in the exhaust manifold. I plan on working on it again tomorrow.

As soon as I started working to remove the sensor, I realised that 7/8" was not the correct socket: too loose. I do not have 22mm 6-point deep socket. Harbour Freight had one, but I would have to buy a whole set for that one socket.

I also found out that $181 is not unreasonable for labour to R&R that sensor.

I'm going to soak the old sensor with penetrant repeatably for a couple of day.

No progress today.

 

[Samos3]

As soon as I started working to remove the sensor, I realised that 7/8" was not the correct socket: too loose. I do not have 22mm 6-point deep socket. Harbour Freight had one, but I would have to buy a whole set for that one socket.

I also found out that $181 is not unreasonable for labour to R&R that sensor.

I'm going to soak the old sensor with penetrant repeatably for a couple of day.

No progress today.

Can't get an O2 sensor socket from Autozone?

 

[JC SSP]

Yeah you can buy it at AZ, use it and return it the next day.

 

[graybeard]

Can't get an O2 sensor socket from Autozone?

The AZ ones are okay for installing a new O2 sensor, but from my experence, they don't work well on a really tight one that is cold (ambient temp).

I should try warming the engine up first. Might work then.

 

[Bedouin]

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