My 91 Gt, with Cervini cowl hood, spoiler,and rear bumper, svo taillamps (93 cobra clone) Strim, GT 40 crate, Tremec 3550 - is for sale.Aw man I miss my 90 notch.
My 91 Gt, with Cervini cowl hood, spoiler,and rear bumper, svo taillamps (93 cobra clone) Strim, GT 40 crate, Tremec 3550 - is for sale.Aw man I miss my 90 notch.
TeaseMy 91 Gt, with Cervini cowl hood, spoiler,and rear bumper, svo taillamps (93 cobra clone) Strim, GT 40 crate, Tremec 3550 - is for sale.
Nice. Jerk. Lol. Mine was a retired Texas highway patrol car. Never went to private ownership till I bought it. It was a blast.I have two notches
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Changed fuel filter today (from FPDC info from 7-27-21 dyno session was at the 80% mark....FPDC from the 4-2-20 dyno session was at 73% w\ essentially no change in HP\TQ numbers....). Unplugged the fuel pump at the controller & start the car to relieve the line pressure before changeout but still took a gas shower when I disconnected it from residual line press.....
Got all changed out & hooked controller back up & KOEO'd several times to press test all out....all connections sound w\ no leaks so finished up & start car to allow all to settle out (habit of mine after any work that the engine will be involved either directly or indirectly). All operating OK.
While doing the KOEO press test, I heard the fuel pump making a noise as though the pump impeller\impeller bearing is growling along w\ the std whirring sound of the pump motor...have never heard this in the past (2nd fuel filter changeout...1st changeout after purchase of car) so I'm gonna take this as a warning cue that the original 12 yr+ old fuel pump is starting to give out so I'll be getting a new FoMoCo fuel pump\hat assembly soon to replace it. Checked fuel filter (in service for 3 1\2 yrs) & found it to be slightly restricted but not bad so I'll also be checking the tank for debris during upcoming pump changeout & clean out as necessary.
While under the car I took 1 of my new cats to use to mock up cut lines on the Kooks X-pipe for future upcoming install......
Yeah, I didn't post this but while I was recording a full cold start thru full hot idle pattern post dyno\post IM monitor completion for my records, I saw the LTFT's on both banks, after engine was at full hot idle, standing still, hood open w\ no wind blowing around, suddenly jump up approx 3% w\ STFT's switching normally thruout, stay up here for approx 3-4 mins then suddenly fall back down close to where normal had been. The only thing I could see causing this was fueling....more precisely the fuel pump duty cycling to PCM command from O2 sensor feedback (lean) but all has been fully smoke\pressure tested & verified sound thus no vacuum leaks so I knew the response wasn't due to vacuum leaks & EVAP system is also tested sound so no excess over purging to induce unmetered air & O2 sensors also tested to be sound operationally....only left fueling. Texted my tuner to get the FPDC % during the last dyno session & the results pretty much has pointed to the fuel system so I just did the cheap part 1st to get it out the way (been a while since last changeout). The growling sounds from the fuel pump sealed the rest....yeah some may just assume impeller cavitation during initial press up\leak test which could be true, but I don't have to tell you about what assuming can get you.........on a 12yr+ old fuel pump that I already tested thus knew to have a slightly leaking check valve\pprv in the hat assembly for the last 1 1\2 yrs...to fix either 1 the fuel pump hat assembly has to come out so.................better to do it sooner than later after getting yourself stranded on the side of the road...Gotta change mine too. I noticed some pressure fluctuations the other day so it's probably pretty bad. Can't remember when I did it but I don't think it was that long ago mileage wise.
I wish I understood half of what you say at least 3 percent of the time. I might too old to learn a new skill set.Yeah, I didn't post this but while I was recording a full cold start thru full hot idle pattern post dyno\post IM monitor completion for my records, I saw the LTFT's on both banks, after engine was at full hot idle, standing still, hood open w\ no wind blowing around, suddenly jump up approx 3% w\ STFT's switching normally thruout, stay up here for approx 3-4 mins then suddenly fall back down close to where normal had been. The only thing I could see causing this was fueling....more precisely the fuel pump duty cycling to PCM command from O2 sensor feedback (lean) but all has been fully smoke\pressure tested & verified sound thus no vacuum leaks so I knew the response wasn't due to vacuum leaks & EVAP system is also tested sound so no excess over purging to induce unmetered air & O2 sensors also tested to be sound operationally....only left fueling. Texted my tuner to get the FPDC % during the last dyno session & the results pretty much has pointed to the fuel system so I just did the cheap part 1st to get it out the way (been a while since last changeout). The growling sounds from the fuel pump sealed the rest....yeah some may just assume impeller cavitation during initial press up\leak test which could be true, but I don't have to tell you about what assuming can get you.........on a 12yr+ old fuel pump that I already tested thus knew to have a slightly leaking check valve\pprv in the hat assembly for the last 1 1\2 yrs...to fix either 1 the fuel pump hat assembly has to come out so.................better to do it sooner than later after getting yourself stranded on the side of the road...
Try not to take a gas bath like I did................
I wish I understood half of what you say at least 3 percent of the time. I might too old to learn a new skill set.
Just have to read at a pace where you can absorb it.
Everybody is different and sometimes I have to read his shit twice and stop and think. He just tends to throw a lot of info at you quickly. Rather efficient actually but yes, take your time and decipher cause there is a lot of knowledge there.
Appreciate the comment.Just have to read at a pace where you can absorb it.
Everybody is different and sometimes I have to read his shit twice and stop and think. He just tends to throw a lot of info at you quickly. Rather efficient actually but yes, take your time and decipher cause there is a lot of knowledge there.
Sometimes the best way to diagnose an issue is to test all in process to eliminate all that is NOT the cause to isolate what IS the cause........then take it from there.
When I say I wish I could understand your posts, I mean it in the purest of respect for your skills. I honestly really wish I had that skill set. I generally do not like trying to give, or listen to, a simple explanation to a complex question. Leaves way too many opportunities for misunderstandings. I must say that some understanding has begun to dawn on me the more I read yours, and others, posts on this forum that are on the highly technical side of our cars.Appreciate the comment.
Not the 1st time folks have said this about my way of explaining things but folks don't sometimes get just how hard it can be to explain some technical aspects of these PCMs (or engines as well) & their operations\relations w\ the various sensors\components to use to do troubleshooting, in a simple way\manner that everybody can understand as I don't know everyone's level of understanding of this stuff so I do the best I can AND keep it all as short as I can AND maintain some continuity of thought process. You have no idea of how much proof reading I do to my own posts.................
I understand most folks like simple, easy answers to complex, sophisticated system issues.....but this can't always be done.......
Doesn't upset me in the least so just to put it out here.....no offense taken if someone thinks my postings are "off base". Just know that what I post concerning my car has some concrete, verifiable test data behind it to support what I've posted cause I try to hold to this motto....."Always test, don't guess". Can't always post all this data cause it's sometimes too much for the BBS to allow.......been there, done that.
Sometimes the best way to diagnose an issue is to test all in process to eliminate all that is NOT the cause to isolate what IS the cause........then take it from there. Can save you a LOT of time, trouble & comebacks from making assumptions then finding out later your assumptions were wrong........can be very costly if you're in the automotive repair\refinishing business as my Dad was for 20+ yrs (family owned\run business....he worked for a local dealership for 20 yrs before going out on his own so some 40 yrs total...trained\certified). The bodywork\painting side ain't my strong suit but the auto repair side....different story. There's more I can post but that's for another time............
Waiting on when you get done w\ that F-Body........that's gonna be a hella nice build!
Appreciate the comment.
Not the 1st time folks have said this about my way of explaining things but folks don't sometimes get just how hard it can be to explain some technical aspects of these PCMs (or engines as well) & their operations\relations w\ the various sensors\components to use to do troubleshooting, in a simple way\manner that everybody can understand as I don't know everyone's level of understanding of this stuff so I do the best I can AND keep it all as short as I can AND maintain some continuity of thought process. You have no idea of how much proof reading I do to my own posts.................
I understand most folks like simple, easy answers to complex, sophisticated system issues.....but this can't always be done.......
Doesn't upset me in the least so just to put it out here.....no offense taken if someone thinks my postings are "off base". Just know that what I post concerning my car has some concrete, verifiable test data behind it to support what I've posted cause I try to hold to this motto....."Always test, don't guess". Can't always post all this data cause it's sometimes too much for the BBS to allow.......been there, done that.
Sometimes the best way to diagnose an issue is to test all in process to eliminate all that is NOT the cause to isolate what IS the cause........then take it from there. Can save you a LOT of time, trouble & comebacks from making assumptions then finding out later your assumptions were wrong........can be very costly if you're in the automotive repair\refinishing business as my Dad was for 20+ yrs (family owned\run business....he worked for a local dealership for 20 yrs before going out on his own so some 40 yrs total...trained\certified). The bodywork\painting side ain't my strong suit but the auto repair side....different story. There's more I can post but that's for another time............
Waiting on when you get done w\ that F-Body........that's gonna be a hella nice build!
When I say I wish I could understand your posts, I mean it in the purest of respect for your skills. I honestly really wish I had that skill set. I generally do not like trying to give, or listen to, a simple explanation to a complex question. Leaves way too many opportunities for misunderstandings. I must say that some understanding has begun to dawn on me the more I read yours, and others, posts on this forum that are on the highly technical side of our cars.
I wish I understood half of what you say at least 3 percent of the time...
This is true, however, his writing style is also a factor.Just have to read at a pace where you can absorb it... I have to read his shit twice and stop and think. He just tends to throw a lot of info at you quickly... there is a lot of knowledge there.
The second sentence of his explanation response is 94 WORDS LONG.Appreciate the comment.
Not the 1st time folks have said this about my way of explaining things but folks don't sometimes get just how hard it can be to explain some technical aspects of these PCMs (or engines as well) & their operations\relations w\ the various sensors\components to use to do troubleshooting, in a simple way\manner that everybody can understand as I don't know everyone's level of understanding of this stuff so I do the best I can AND keep it all as short as I can maintain some continuity of thought process.