Wheel hop

Discussion in '2011+ Mustang GT 5.0L Tech' started by Klean14, Feb 9, 2020.

  1. Klean14

    Klean14 Junior Member

    Looking for a little rearend guidance. I have a low mileage stock 2014 track pack with the p zeros. Horrible wheel hop on launch. Thinking about starting with aftermarket upper and lower control arms. Good place to start?
  2. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator S197 Team Member

    perfect place to start, LCA & UCA upgrades should solve the wheel hop issue.

    use bushing style for better ride comfort and less NVH, the spherical type will will be much harsher.
    Midlife Crises likes this.
  3. skwerl

    skwerl tree hugger

    If your car has been lowered at all, look to see if you need LCA relocation brackets. They need to be pointing slightly down at the axle side. If they are level or pointing up then the axle will unload under throttle reducing traction.
  4. oldVOR

    oldVOR forum member

    +1 on the LCA and UCA recommendation.
    Look for BMR components, some of the best stuff you can get!
  5. oldVOR

    oldVOR forum member

    Check the classified section on this site, usually some good stuff to be had at times
  6. KRS

    KRS Junior Member

    If you have any concerns for NVH then the Roush UCA would be my choice. I’m pretty sure the part number is 421120. Unfortunately it’s currently not available, it might be worth a call to Roush to find out why. I installed one on my 2011 GT500 that is mildly modified, around 550 rwhp. Before the UCA I experienced violent wheel hop and after the install the tires just break loose cleanly.
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
  7. SilBult

    SilBult Junior Member

    In my experience you have two ways to go, control arms or shocks. I have a base model '14 GT with a manual transmission. In stock form I experienced the same wheel hop that everyone has complained about. I installed a set of J&M lower control arms with poly bushings. I choose the J&M's because the design of the rear bushings allows them to pivot and should prevent binding when the body rolls in cornering. They eliminated the wheel hop without needing to change the upper arm. After about a year of use they started to transmit more driveline noise into the car then they did when new. I am sure some people would be OK with it. I wasn't. I tried sound deader under the rear seat, but it really didn't help much so I put the stock arms back on. Later I installed Vorshlag's Street Pro suspension set up [ it works ] and the Bilstein shocks it comes with have pretty much eliminated the wheel hop. Relocation brackets can help with forward bite, but too much anti-squat can induce roll oversteer. There really isn't any " free lunch". There will almost always be trade offs. If you go with relocation brackets, try to buy ones that don't require welding and that won't interfere with any other suspension mods you might have in mind.
  8. Disarray

    Disarray Junior Member

    +1 on control arms. This weekend I just replaced my lower control arms and panhard bar with Eibach's adjustable units with hardened rubber bushings, and my rear axle doesn't wheel hop at all anymore. Seems to be near perfect in the NVH department too, but I haven't spent much time with them yet.
    I'm running a wider tire (255/45r18) which helped some with hop, but didn't eliminate it. I'd recommend changing either the upper or lower first, to see if you'll need the other set.
  9. skwerl

    skwerl tree hugger

    A couple people mentioned shocks. I didn't mention them in my first post because I just assumed that's a given. If you're still running OEM shocks then close this thread and go buy decent shocks first. I ran Koni yellows on both of my Mustangs, although I ended up permanently leaving them at the softest setting. Unless you're into hard core racing just buy the Koni orange (non adjustable) and you will be happy.
  10. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

    I'd start with the LCAs alone. If that fixes the issue, you're done (and save yourself a potentially miserable little UCA job).

    For the same reason, I think I'd try shocks next. Koni yellows aren't that bad, not after they've had a few hundred to a thousand miles to "break in" (initial seal stiction/friction diminishes).

  11. OX1

    OX1 forum member

    I went The Roush upper and lower also. No hop at all, does spin like crazy though............
  12. jewc75

    jewc75 forum member

    Ive seen people cutting 1.50 60 foots with no wheel hop on stock shocks. Start with the lca and dont cheap out. BMR or UPR is good stuff.
    konablue11gt likes this.