WOTBOX + 5 speed users....

DraggnRoush

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Frankie...

The cable you showed me below is FEMALE isn't it? I thought we need a MALE 9-pin connector?

I'm still not finding the bits I need to build a shift-light to plug into my WOTBOX... HELP!
 
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bigray327

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I thought we need a MALE 9-pin connector?
Correct. Just like the one that came with your kit, if you cut off the USB end.

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P.S. Your link didn't work. It has "..." in it.

Regarding what you need to do, it's been posted here several times, twice by me. Take a step back, read some posts, and then ask specific questions. Summary: connect the negative LED wire to pin 2, connect the positive wire to pin 6. It's not hard!
 
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DraggnRoush

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OK Ray... I know it will be easy once I get the materials together. I was asking a specific question, i.e., MALE or FEMALE... thanks for your help ya bastard.. LOL!

Hey... if you can make one for me, I'll buy it off ya!
 

dysan

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Soldering isn't bad at all, it's when you have to solder in an odd position, trying to hold the solder iron, wire and the solder while upside down under the damn dash!

That's when soldering sucks!

HEHE.
 

Rasmus

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Great, now I'm going to need an OR mid to go with the WOTbox. I figured the cutting of the ignition was going to wreak havoc on the cats, and I don't feel like blowing the block. A local shop got three blown up engines due to cats failing, and I'm in no way wanting to make that four.

Also, soldering is fun. If y'all think a serial cable is hard, try doing a surface chip replacement on a PCB. If anyone reading this is local to me, I'll be more than happy to solder up a connector for you provided you bring the parts.
 

s8v4o

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Just FYI If you have nitrous you don't want to spray through the shift. It will sound like a canon going off. Wait until you get outside your window when it's not spraying.

And yeah I wouldn't use the 2step if you have cats or restrictive mufflers.

Couldn't you somehow integrate the wiring the nitrous kit with using the clutch switch somehow? So when you push in the clutch the nitrous kit turns off? Let off on the clutch and the spray starts up again. I think I'm going to opt for the windows switch option. Does anybody know if the "window switch option" is only a serial cable? Or is there something special about it? See photo.. http://www.npcompleteperformance.co...window_switch-medium.jpg?height=200&width=178





I remember hearing someone saying that its good for 5lbs off the line but I saw this video of a 76mm helion cobra hes getting 15lbs with timing pulled in a certain load table to make more boost??? Anyone heard of this for our 3v's I don't see what would be any different...Heres the vid so you can see for yourself...
http://www.streetfire.net/video/wot-box-2step-on-an-03-cobra-single-76-hellion-tu_501705.htm

I think ones that pull timing and cut spark develop more boost.



Yeah...I got the same black serial to usb wire with no markings. I looked on newegg.com to find a similar wire and then downloaded the drivers.....I'll see if I can find the ones I used and edit this post.

EDIT: Here's the driver I found that works with the black cable

http://www.kinamax.com/drivers/SBT-USCXX.zip

Thanks, been looking for some drivers like that. My laptop doesn't have a serial pert and I need to be able to hook up my LM1 to it.



Yes I did test it, set it to 6500 in the tune and then 6800 via the wotbox worked perfectly.

Am I reading that correctly or is that backwards? I would have thought that if the tune was set BEFORE the wotbox the factory rev limiter would kick in before the wotbox? I guess I'm confused?



Are there any problems with this and Windows 7?
 

fdjizm

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Couldn't you somehow integrate the wiring the nitrous kit with using the clutch switch somehow? So when you push in the clutch the nitrous kit turns off? Let off on the clutch and the spray starts up again. I think I'm going to opt for the windows switch option. Does anybody know if the "window switch option" is only a serial cable? Or is there something special about it? See photo.. http://www.npcompleteperformance.co...window_switch-medium.jpg?height=200&width=178







I think ones that pull timing and cut spark develop more boost.





Thanks, been looking for some drivers like that. My laptop doesn't have a serial pert and I need to be able to hook up my LM1 to it.





Am I reading that correctly or is that backwards? I would have thought that if the tune was set BEFORE the wotbox the factory rev limiter would kick in before the wotbox? I guess I'm confused?



Are there any problems with this and Windows 7?

I'm sorry yes, I set the tune in the ecu to 6800 and the wotbox to 6500, so I hit the wotbox rev limiter first (it worked) then turned off the wotbox and hit the factory rev limiter (it worked).

and no i'm on windows 7 it's fine.
 
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luillo

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Damn it!!! When are they going to make it work on the new 2011 5.0..

I asked a while back and they told me that it work, but i dont think the person that replyied to my question knew what kind of mustang i was talking about.
 

fdjizm

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I don't see why it wouldn't work on the 5.0 all you need to do is find the right pins on the ECU
 

Branman

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Yeah I would email them again. They are great guys and Im sure the info will be out soon.
 

Branman

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The 2011 would probably be very close to the 2010 just a couple wire are probably different. The install is super easy on these cars.
 

AJ

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and I have a ton in stock ;)
 

CMK720

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I heard it's pretty much dumb to get it for a bolt on NA GT?
 

fdjizm

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I heard it's pretty much dumb to get it for a bolt on NA GT?
It is, if you think launching where you need to everytime and being able to powershift like butter is dumb. :thud:
 
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dysan

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I look at it as a safety device for my 3650 trans. Letting the synchros mesh easier will prolong its life and that's what really sold me on it. I love having a 2-step for launching though.
 

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