Young Punk Build Volume IV - The game needs change & I'm the mother *@#%en cashier

46Tbird

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Hey man, I just sat down and read this whole thread. Very nice detail and a great swap. You do great work. Your father is Joe DaSilva? I remember that name from all the old MMFF articles! I'm sure he's proud.

After reading the whole thing closely, I only have one suggestion;

The ground can either be hooked up to the clutch pedal switch (so it engages like factory and pushing the clutch is mandatory) instead I decided to go straight to the chassis and by pass that all together (car will fire without the clutch being pushed all the way down, race car styles :p)

Man, I have to suggest a functional neutral safety switch. It's so easy to wire up and I guarantee you will regret not having one when your car slams into a work bench. Ask me how I know.

And now just a couple of responses to other comments.

how would it be cheaper to buy a whole new car than to buy a motor? Let's do the math.

2011 GT=$25-30k and runs 12s.
Coyote motor swap= $7-8k and his car runs 10s.

If we're being honest here, he has a whole lot more than "$7-8k" in running 10s. Doing the math, it is probably closer to $30k (maybe more) with all the pieces I see in the build. This car is built NICE.

Why wouldnt you just sell your mustang and buy the 5.0. It couldnt have been that much more, and the warranty would pay for the difference. Cool build and all but i just bought a 2011 gt with only 9,000 miles for $28,000. You should have dont that.

You really don't have a basic understanding of what it takes to build a car like this. That's cool that you're happy with your stock Mustang but this car is a competitive drag car. It's not even comparable.
 

BlackSunshine

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If we're being honest here, he has a whole lot more than "$7-8k" in running 10s. Doing the math, it is probably closer to $30k (maybe more) with all the pieces I see in the build. This car is built NICE.

What you also need to understand is that the car was built before the swap and running low 11's with the 3V. The motor swap was the final peice in the puzzle. So, no, buying a 2011+ would not have saved any money as the chassis was pretty much buttoned up before the "new" 5.0 was even released. Consequently, what Daniel Day said was correct in so much as the motor swap was alot cheaper then starting from scratch with a new chassis.
 

rodfarva

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Good to hear that you are still alive, lol. I haven't seen you post here in forever.
 

kevinatfms

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^your sig is about as badass as can be.

"8 sec 2010 gt500"
that's like no fucking around badass. you sir have my vote!
 

2005mach1

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Matt your car is amazing and dont let anyone tell you different!!
I loved how they talked about your car in the coyote stock class.
 

46Tbird

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What you also need to understand is that the car was built before the swap and running low 11's with the 3V. The motor swap was the final peice in the puzzle. So, no, buying a 2011+ would not have saved any money as the chassis was pretty much buttoned up before the "new" 5.0 was even released. Consequently, what Daniel Day said was correct in so much as the motor swap was alot cheaper then starting from scratch with a new chassis.
Ah, so $7-8k on top of ~$22-23k already spent, thanks for the clarification.
wink.gif
 

CandyRedGT

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What you also need to understand is that the car was built before the swap and running low 11's with the 3V. The motor swap was the final peice in the puzzle. So, no, buying a 2011+ would not have saved any money as the chassis was pretty much buttoned up before the "new" 5.0 was even released. Consequently, what Daniel Day said was correct in so much as the motor swap was alot cheaper then starting from scratch with a new chassis.
^^^ Exactly. I'm loving Matt's swap1!!! Been off this site several months. Glad to see this is still going!!!
 

thump_rrr

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At some tracks such as New England Dragway in Epping Nh.
The car will not pass tech inspection without a functional neutral safety switch.
 

stkjock

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would love to see updates on this car, definetly one of my favorite cars on this site

considering he's not logged in to the site in 3 months... don't hold your breath.....but never surprises do happen
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Great thread, already found some usable tech for us S197 autocrossers contemplating a 5.0 swap in a 2005-2009 GT. Really appreciate all of the weights you posted, but of course always wished for more. :clap:

So, really, you are just going to bypass them and change them out? Hmm.... guess if you do that Ill have to run harness stuff and make it all play nice :)

Kent - I know what you are thinking, but in the SCCA ESP class you race in you can remove/swap out all of the factory gauges, pretty much like the OP did here. But there are other SCCA class legality issues with a 5.0 swap into a 05-09 car like yours, like the electric steering, engine wiring harness issues, etc. I've been crunching the numbers, weighed several 05-09 and 11-13 cars, and doing research for the past few days.

DSC4613-3-S.jpg


Yes, the 5.0 is the right way to go in ESP (and I'm saying that even though I just got beat by a 4.6 3V in this class at Nationals last week), but for that SCCA class you I do not think want to do this 5.0 into '05-09 swap. Lots of potential nightmares that were not a problem on this drag race build but that could bite you in the ass. Call me.

I am not knocking this build whatsoever - very nicely done. Just gets tricky when you throw in the whole "SCCA" factor. That group has hundreds of pages of rules... :ugh1:
 
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06underme

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This may sound like a stupid question Matt, but when you put your car back together why did you use the factory clutch? I may have just missed it if you already explained.
 

Matt D

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Blast from the past seeing this thread pop up. I have to play catch up with everything I have been through since the swap.

I re used my Stock clutch at the time because it never did me wrong. After that clutch wore out I bought a ACT Flywheel and clutch and had major issues with it, not disengaging and the fingers going to far in they touched the disc. I had bad luck with Spec's stage 3+ with my old 3V combo so I wasn't going down that road again.

As of right now I am running a Centerforce dual friction clutch and a Centerforce Alum flywheel.
 

ArtQ

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Stock clutch kicks ass up to about 400 rwhp/3200ish lbs..Perfect amount of slip for killer 60 foots!
 

up_yours_7

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I know this is an old thread but just had some questions. I'm buying a wrecked 2012 and just wanted to know what will I need that I won't be able to get off of the 2012 to do the swap from my V6?
 
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