Clutch problems

BruceH

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well im just curious of the difference between the part numbers and why lethal has 6913 as a part number but every where else i look has 6912???

I ordered from AMP under their group buy. IIRC I got the flywheel from Lethal though.

The setup on my 3650 was different. More different than just having 10 spline hubs although McLeod said they could rehub the clutches and I could of used it on the 6060.

The 3650 had a gold ring too. Edit: I see it's a 6912 also. I used this one with a Fidanza steel flywheel.

IMG_0595.jpg


Another edit: Just did a search for 6913 mcleod. Here is what jegs says the different versions fit. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?Ne=1%2b2%2b3%2b13%2b1147708%2b1147708&Ntt=6913&langId=-1&Ntk=all&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&N=4294965982&Nty=0

Jeremy where did you order from?
 
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redstangs9308gt

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new slaves, shim, still no go...WTF is left? Clutch I guess unless maybe the cylinder that controlls the pressure to the slave has fucked up. Whatever you call it, cant think of the name right off.
 

JeremyH

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What would cause the mc it to go bad? Symptoms? I guess I can try to replace that too. But at this point it probably wont help and I would just be flushing more money away.
 

gil_t2

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When you bought this RST did you get a new Flywheel? what brand are you using?
 

JeremyH

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I have tried 2 flywheels, I had a brand new fidanza flywheel. ( I also used a fidanza with the old rst like bruce no issues). To rule out the fidanza fw as being an issue, I called up mcleod and got the correct part number and orderd a mcleod flywheel. Mike compared the fidanza and mcleod flywheels side by side and they were basicly identical. The mcleod flywheel is in the car now.

I was thinking about sending the mcleod flywheel and rst back to mcleod to have them check it out and the whole setup inspected measured and balanced. Probably need to buy a new oem slave again to rule that out as well. this is depressing...



Bruce, I ordered the 26 spline rst from Eric @ JPC over the phone. It was also out of stock like everything else I've had to buy for this build so it took awhile to come in...

I noticed their website uses thier own part numbers and it just has one rst page and has you specify 10 or 26 spline...
 
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gil_t2

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So right now the trans will shift if the engine is off, but if engine is running it will not go into gear? what does the pedal feel like.
 

JeremyH

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So right now the trans will shift if the engine is off, but if engine is running it will not go into gear? what does the pedal feel like.


That was the issue before. Shifts like butter with the car off, but car on it was very hard to get in gear and the car would start to roll/stall.

After Mike put in the shim he said its the same problem, it didnt get any better. (car is 2 hrs away at the shop) This is after putting in another new slave and mcleod flywheel which didnt help and then came the shim.
 

JeremyH

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Looking at the measurements sheet the tb should be .7 inches compressed installed which is what mike said it was without the shim he said it was 3/4" compressed.

Based on that im leaning harder towards a internal clutch disc/pp issue.
 

gil_t2

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I think you may be correct, but does the pedal have free play at top, about an inch? if not is it stiff when you start to push on it? Try shifting with the clutch pedal at different levels instead of all the way down.
 

JeremyH

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I think you may be correct, but does the pedal have free play at top, about an inch? if not is it stiff when you start to push on it? Try shifting with the clutch pedal at different levels instead of all the way down.


Dont remember about the play, havent seen the car in 2 months I will ask Mike to try that.
 

Greg Hazlett

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I know Jeremy did not do anything with it, the car is 2 hours away and the shop it's at is not open on Sunday.
 

gil_t2

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OK, i were they are, bought some parts there once. I can't understand why they can not fix it. I have tryed to think of everything i can, it would like to get a look at it.
 

stang67gt

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Sorry I'm late to the party. I've done 3 6060/rst or rxt swaps recently and the two with stock TOB's which didn't use a shim, the other was with a Quicktime bell and a tilton TOB. From my own research and from McLeod tech it only takes .325-.350 movement to fully release the street twins, while our stock TOB has a throw of .440-.460. has it been verified that you are getting over .400" of throw out of the TOB. If not you could have air trapped in the TOB. If that is the case then it should be bled, but considering I never got the ford vacuum bleed procedure to work well I came up with my own way and It hasn't failed me on over 25 clutch installs.

Its always a good idea to bench fill new TOB but have done it both ways with success.
After trans is installed and hyd. lines are connected with the m.c. reservoir is topped off with ford HiPo DOT3.
1. Lengthen (front to rear, width can be the same as stock) the inspection hole at the bottom of the trans bellhousing. (can be done before install or after)
2. With a long skinny prybar or long flathead screwdriver (even a long gasket scraper) place it through the bigger inspection hole.
3. Place tool tip between TOB bearing surface and clutch fingers.
4. By either twisting tool or pushing handle towards the front of the vehicle, push the bearing to the fully compressed position and Repeat 10 times
5. Then have partner or yourself push the clutch pedal in 10 times in a slow fluid motion (not fast).
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 til firm pedal is achieved.
7. Have partner put trans in gear and stay in vehicle.
8. With you underneath the car, try to spin the output shaft.
If it still spins by hand , clutch is not engaging and usually needs to be replaced or rebuilt. If it doesn't spin, put force on output shaft to spin while partner slowly depresses clutch pedal. If it spins before midway down or so then you are done. If it goes to the floor before hand spinning, repeat steps 4-5.

To check TOB throw...
Install TOB, hyd lines without the trans or if ss line is long enough, then while on trans but not bolted to the engine with enough room for two sets of hands in the bellhousing.
1. Use above steps and bleed the TOB, instead of tool through the inspection hole just use you hands to full collapse the TOB (advise to lock wheels on tranny jack or hold trans with one hand while pushing the TOB in for leverage and to stop movement of trans.
2. After bleeding the system, check by letting the TOB be in relax state, have partner slowly and lighly press on the clutch pedal (WARNING don't press hard or seals will fail) If it is rock solid then its time for measurements. If clutch pedal moves more than just the free play then keep on bleeding.
3. For this step only, have a third person get in the driver's seat (simply anyone that can push a clutch pedal to the floor on command, ie wife, gf, son, daughter, grandma, etc)
4. Using a dial indicator, digital micrometer, or anything with accuracy better than .010", with one person depressing TOB full collapsed, measure from top of TOB bearing surface, to a repeatable surface (for example the TOB mounting flange flat surface).
5. Record measurements in each quadrant and average together.
6. While still have partner A holding the TOB fully compressed, have clutch pedal person full depress pedal to the floor.
7. While both partners are essential fighting each other via the hyd. system, make and record measurement in the same location in each quadrant.
8. Subtract pedal down measurement average against pedal up measurement average to get TOB throw.

If you have any other questions let me know.
 

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