MindIfISmoke's? Built Part 3.

93coupe

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change or delete your sig you lazy prick.

looks good otherwise
 

MindIfISmoke?

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I'm working on new Sig time now!

Updated mod list is as fallows

Matt Kaiser
2007 PW Mustang GT
5speed

Motor:
Livernois 298 pro-series stroker
Forged crank
Manley h beams Arp 2000 bolts
Diamond pro series coated pistons 2618
9.1:1 CR
Livernois billet crank scraper
Fully balanced and blue printed
Stock heads/cams
BBR'S phaser lockouts
Trick flow valve springs
trick flow crank sprocket set
Cams retarded 4°
Gt500 oil pump billet gears
Jpc cast intake manifold

Fuel:
Fore precision works billet hat
Twin walbro 400lph pumps
Stock feed line
SD 80# injectors
92 octane

Turbo kit:
76mm turbo
.80 cold side. 96 hot side
4" inlet 2.5 inch outlet
Precision 46mm gate w/ 6.5 # spring
Full 3" cold side
4" intercooler

SCT BA5000 IN 3" PIPING

transmission:
Stock 5 speed
Ram power grip hd clutch
8 bolt flywheel
Stock rearend /gears

Exhaust:
No cats
Slp loudmouth muffler deletes
Mid mounted Magna packs

Suspension:
FRPP k springs
Eibach double adj LCA'S
Anddddddd I need more lol
 
Last edited:

Greg Hazlett

Stepping on the Pink Bus
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Just got caught up after a few days off......Wowwwww. I think I knew that about the Wideband before I even turboed my car.

Jeremy is absolutely right about street driving vs. dyno tuning. My car reacts differently every day. Its very hard to simulate that on a dyno. My friend had his 09 wrx tuned on a combo of dyno/street driving with his tuner. I always thought that was the best way to go. I'd love to have a tuner go to the track with me and tune based on my passes.


Uhhh....your tuner was right in front of you at the track rental...????















OP-I did not see it in your sig, is that a JPC intake?
 

UltraKla$$ic

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You blow this one up............get a bicycle!!!!!!!!!!!!!:nk:


That engine bay looks SAWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!:drool: :drool:
 

supergenius

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DOnt drive it if its running pig rich (Which it sounds like it mihght be) in the 10s AFR wise.

1. Fire up and heat cycle check for leaks... let it run for a few. Dump oil and change w/ new filter (flush ass lube and any shit in the motor)


You dont have to break shit in and wont if youre too nice to it. It will get broken in during part throttle tuning. Loading the rings is what break in is all about. Lots of varying load and braking on the motor... etc. That doesnt mean beating on it, but not pussyfooting it either ;O)

To properly seat the rings you need to get the motor really hot,which intails beating on it.. and allow for coast downs in gear. Coast down in gears, will build up crank case pressure under the pistons which will expand the rings and get a full seat against the wall.


Motors that have rings properly seated make power, the rings are seated 95 percent of the way theyre gonna get before the endd of your part throttle tune with accell, brake on the motor and varying load. If you DONT load them up (Or wash the rings out with fuel being too rich... Your motor wont seat the rings, and it will smoke and not make power.

A quick oil change and new filter after that too is my practice, then the dyno if everything seems to be in order.... I wait about 500 miles then stuuff synthetic in it.




You know the old addage:


Break emin hard they run hard? Its true. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN flagarantly donre and "hard" though. And a proper way.



By the end of the street tune you should be in boos
 

Germeezy3

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DOnt drive it if its running pig rich (Which it sounds like it mihght be) in the 10s AFR wise.

1. Fire up and heat cycle check for leaks... let it run for a few. Dump oil and change w/ new filter (flush ass lube and any shit in the motor)


You dont have to break shit in and wont if youre too nice to it. It will get broken in during part throttle tuning. Loading the rings is what break in is all about. Lots of varying load and braking on the motor... etc. That doesnt mean beating on it, but not pussyfooting it either ;O)

To properly seat the rings you need to get the motor really hot,which intails beating on it.. and allow for coast downs in gear. Coast down in gears, will build up crank case pressure under the pistons which will expand the rings and get a full seat against the wall.


Motors that have rings properly seated make power, the rings are seated 95 percent of the way theyre gonna get before the endd of your part throttle tune with accell, brake on the motor and varying load. If you DONT load them up (Or wash the rings out with fuel being too rich... Your motor wont seat the rings, and it will smoke and not make power.

A quick oil change and new filter after that too is my practice, then the dyno if everything seems to be in order.... I wait about 500 miles then stuuff synthetic in it.




You know the old addage:


Break emin hard they run hard? Its true. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN flagarantly donre and "hard" though. And a proper way.



By the end of the street tune you should be in boos

I have done that with all my new cars, and the coast downs are key as far as seating the rings as you said above.
 

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