JDM 302E Engine Owners - Check In!!

JoshK

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Just not sure how much room is left with my 80s and don't want to be running to close to the edge.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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Is the stock 2009 Mustang GT 3V fuel pump sufficient or do you recommend installing a GT500 Walbro / TI AUTOMOTIVE TU282HP HIGH PERFORMANCE fuel pump module assembly in the JDM 5.0 with the larger injectors (over stock) based on my setup?
 
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AutoXRacer

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Is the stock 2009 Mustang GT 3V fuel pump sufficient or do you recommend installing a GT500 Walbro / TI AUTOMOTIVE TU282HP HIGH PERFORMANCE fuel pump module assembly in the JDM 5.0 with the larger injectors (over stock) based on my setup?

What is your setup? How much power are you pushing? Fuel type?
 

skwerl

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Is the stock 2009 Mustang GT 3V fuel pump sufficient or do you recommend installing a GT500 Walbro / TI AUTOMOTIVE TU282HP HIGH PERFORMANCE fuel pump module assembly in the JDM 5.0 with the larger injectors (over stock) based on my setup?

I got to my current power level with the stock pump, with the addition of the wiring upgrade and the voltage booster. I have high flow ported heads and cams, 11 lbs of boost and making 568 to the wheels. It's maxed out though.

Back to the JDM 302e, mine has been in for a month and I'm at about 1000 miles. No appreciable oil usage since my break in oil change at 200 miles. I've had it to the track twice already and tend to whomp on the throttle regularly every time I drive it once it's up to operating temperature. Spinning the tires from 45mph is a blast! :snoopy
 

Gray Ghost GT

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What is your setup? How much power are you pushing? Fuel type?

JDM built me the motor with a set of custom NA cams with FRPP heads using 93 octane gas with a larger set of injectors that's putting down 385 rwhp/tq. It will spend a lot of time spinning at 6500 RPMs on the road courses for 30 minute sessions. Perhaps JDM will chime in since they have my build sheet and make a recommendation. I'm thinking the stock fuel pump is sufficient based on what I'm reading, just want to make sure before my 2014 season kicks off in May.
 

AutoXRacer

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JDM built me the motor with a set of custom NA cams with FRPP heads using 93 octane gas with a larger set of injectors that's putting down 385 rwhp/tq. It will spend a lot of time spinning at 6500 RPMs on the road courses for 30 minute sessions. Perhaps JDM will chime in since they have my build sheet and make a recommendation. I'm thinking the stock fuel pump is sufficient based on what I'm reading, just want to make sure before my 2014 season kicks off in May.

Yep, JDM will say to stay with your stock pump. Actually the stock pump is good for up to 430-440 rwhp. So you are definitely within the range.

If you wanted to go all out, not that you need it at this time, JDM would recommend the GT500 pumps at most. They say they run these in OEM trim at 800HP.

So you are good with the stock single pump at your power level.
 

AutoXRacer

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Back to the JDM 302e, mine has been in for a month and I'm at about 1000 miles. No appreciable oil usage since my break in oil change at 200 miles. I've had it to the track twice already and tend to whomp on the throttle regularly every time I drive it once it's up to operating temperature. Spinning the tires from 45mph is a blast! :snoopy

Oh yes it is!!! Its my favorite to be next to a punk on the highway that thinks he's all that and just smoke my tires at 50-60MPH...
There are no words to describe the feeling.

Back to your motor...whatever... LOL
I am really narrowing my issues to the heads. Been running the new injectors for a couple of weeks now and I am still puddles of oil at the backside of the valves. I even let the motor sit over night and part of the day and I found puddles at all the closed valves.

I'm ordering a set of new heads; the CNC-Ported FRPP ones that come fully assembled (valve-wise) and will just replace the springs with my current PAC springs and install the cams.

I truly think the heads I have are defective some how.
I won't know for sure until I pull the motor. Waiting on the new heads to arrive along with a garage heater... lol
 

skwerl

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I really think you left a lot of power on the table when you went with stock heads on your build. I picked up almost 70hp with my heads and cams over the stock setup. Hopefully the new heads do the trick. I'd take a super close look at the cylinder hones as well while the heads are off.
 

AutoXRacer

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I really think you left a lot of power on the table when you went with stock heads on your build. I picked up almost 70hp with my heads and cams over the stock setup. Hopefully the new heads do the trick. I'd take a super close look at the cylinder hones as well while the heads are off.

I will... I really don't want to tear the shortblock apart. But it would be silly to put everything back together to just find out it needed to be rehoned.

I will decide when I look at it.
 

AutoXRacer

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We will have some answers soon...

I started the tear down; exhaust, driveshaft, and transmission are out.
Now the motor. sigh :tdown:

Ordered new set of heads from Steve at Tasca; they have really good deals!!
Now what to do with the old heads.

See this thread for the tear down and rebuild (Take II); post #212).
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1938097#post1938097
 
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jonnieguns

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I'm kinda late to this party, but here's my motor:

JDM 302E (9:8:1)
2.3 Whipple
Steeda 10-rib belt drive (11-13psi kit)
AFCO heat exchanger
FRPP GT500 fuel pump
Sieman Deka 63lb injectors
JLT oil catch can
Melling billet oil pump
ARP head studs
Innovate wideband A/F sensor


I've had this setup for almost 10,000 miles. Nothing but good things to say about the motor so far. My builder told me to break it in by driving normally, but to stay under 4000rpm. I have an SCT BA-5000 MAF on the way, and I'm seriously thinking about ditching my injectors for some ID1000's.
 
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AutoXRacer

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I'm kinda late to this party, but here's my motor:

JDM 302E (9:8:1)
2.3 Whipple
Steeda 10-rib belt drive (11-13psi kit)
AFCO heat exchanger
FRPP GT500 fuel pump
Sieman Deka 63lb injectors
JLT oil catch can
Melling billet oil pump
ARP head studs
Innovate wideband A/F sensor


I've had this setup for almost 10,000 miles. Nothing but good things to say about the motor so far. My builder told me to break it in by driving normally, but to stay under 4000rpm. I have an SCT BA-5000 MAF on the way, and I'm seriously thinking about ditching my injectors for some ID1000's.

Who built your motor? Did you ever have oil consumption issues?

I am pretty sure its the heads that were included in my build. I'll know for sure when I remove them. I seriously doubt anything is wrong with the block. More to come on that.

Yes, I can not say enough about the ID1000s. I have never felt such a smooth throttle response after installing and tuning these injectors.
 

JimIII@JDM

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JDM built me the motor with a set of custom NA cams with FRPP heads using 93 octane gas with a larger set of injectors that's putting down 385 rwhp/tq. It will spend a lot of time spinning at 6500 RPMs on the road courses for 30 minute sessions. Perhaps JDM will chime in since they have my build sheet and make a recommendation. I'm thinking the stock fuel pump is sufficient based on what I'm reading, just want to make sure before my 2014 season kicks off in May.


Hey we have spoke about this before and your stock fuel pump is fine, we checked this during both dyno sessions. The stock pump can support about 420-450 RWHP with out any help from a wiring upgrade or Voltage booster. With out adding any more power to the car you won't need more fuel delivery.
 

tigerhonaker

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Since were discussing oil, I found it very interesting that Brenspeed told me to strictly use 10W-40 motor oil in my stroker. Even replaced my oil cap with the new 10W-40 oil cap.









Terry
 

AutoXRacer

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So here are pictures of the exhaust valves; what do you guys think?

Passenger side

DSC00065_zps1c842dab.jpg


DSC00072_zps9f2fa8bd.jpg


DSC00073_zps7f454f32.jpg


DSC00074_zpsa7d72a57.jpg


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Driver side

DSC00076_zpse1411be8.jpg


DSC00080_zps02c2dffa.jpg


DSC00081_zps1830a545.jpg


DSC00082_zps56b57b40.jpg


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I sent these pictures to a GM race engine builder (builds Buick Grand Nationals) and the first thing he said was:
[FONT=&quot]Looks like a lot of oil leaking down Guides. [/FONT]
Mind you I have never told him I found puddles of oil in the intake side and on top of the pistons.

Anyone else have any comments?
 

dysan

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Well, my last engine had out of round cylinders on the driver's side of the engine and oil was showing on the top of the valves but it was from oil being pushed up by the pistons and from (can't remember the damn term) how the air flow works with cams and whatnot. The word begins with an "R" but I just can't remember the term.

My valves and exhaust ports did not have nearly that much carbon on them so I'm going to have to guess that it's both from oil and being rich. Now I also ran E85 all last year so that may have kept my stuff clean.
 

AutoXRacer

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So you are saying that oil was getting past the rings and pistons, climbing up the heads and resting on the backside of the valves in the intake port?

So what you are saying is that I need to get the block inspected for roundness...?
I would have thought JDM performed this already since they claim "New FRPP Block plate honed for a truer bore geometry".

Also, wouldn't that show up in a compression/leak down test?
Ooh, that reminds me, I need to perform a compression and leakdown test for giggles.
 

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