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05stroker

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Man I can't wait to hopefully see the beast at the end of the month.

Its looking a little better now then it was this morning. I was about to park it till spring!

Its pig rich now, may have o2 sensor issues, but at least both banks are the same now.
 

05stroker

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Here is a shot of the plugs. These are both sides of the plugs from the last pull when I swapped sides, before the new plugs went in. One is far left and eight is far right. These are after I swapped sides.



 

Department Of Boost

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Hmmmm, they look like plugs to me. That's kind of a bummer. At $100/set are you just supposed to throw plugs at it every time something strange happens? Yuck!

I'm in the same boat I guess. I keep two sets on had pre-gapped. I don't change them much though. My cars kind of a beater.
 

dysan

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It's so weird...my plugs always come out with a white coating on them..yours look like they were run on gas, not E85. Must be due to how rich the car is running right now.

Here's a pic of one of my plugs from last year...and my afr is in the 11.4 range on the gas scale fyi...

3_zps98103dcb.jpg
 

psfracer

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That looks like a pretty hot plug to, what plug is that?


Whenever I used to have mph drop off under load at the track I always changed the plugs first. I had so many of those things laying around it was ridiculous. But--I was also running C16 at the time, so it was quite common for the plugs to go bad after a couple trips to the track.
 

05stroker

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I agree, they don't "look" bad but, the fact is after all I tried swapping side to side the last thing was the plugs and the issue followed the plugs. All I know is both sides are the same and I feel much better. It should just be some tuning left on that side of things.

Now on to my next issue. Most of you know about my custom strange brake setup. Here is the issue, when I get on the brakes medium to hard the fronts lock up. I have researched and found the reason we don't find the need for a proportioning valve when deleting the ABS is because the master cylinder has a proportioning valve built into it on our cars. With that info I am going to reverse the lines at the master cylinder and then if the rears lock up I can use the proportioning valve I have in line on the rears and adjust from there. I don't know if this is due to using the Strange brakes with a brake booster or the fact that I have duel rear calipers and they don't get the fluid in time.

REALY trying to make a pull at the track in two weeks at the TX/LA meet, we shall see. I will have to get some good road pulls next weekend to feel comfortable hauling the car to Houston and doing track pulls. I will also need to make sure Manuel can be by the PC during the evening on the 26th so I can do the track pulls and datalog/adjust the tune.
 

05stroker

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If that is directed at me it's a one step colder ngk 7554 plug. Basically the equivalent of the ht0 for the newer style 3v heads.

I have never had my E85 plugs look like that unless I was way lean. I have seen many of the same plugs as yours though that look like that on perfectly tuned cars. Looks like some that AutoXRacer posted the other day







.
 
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05stroker

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Oh, and I do have to give credit where credit is due. This is how I described the plug find earlier to someone here.

Hell I was sitting in my chair at my wits end and my 16 yr old tells me," hey dad, I know I don't know anything about cars but, my friends truck was popping the other day and sputtering and he changed the plugs and it fixed it. I doubt that is what is wrong with yours but, it helped him". So, I was like what the hell, it is the only thing I have not tried. And what do you know, the lean condition followed the plugs.

Kid might make a car guy sooner then I thought...
 

Department Of Boost

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I have researched and found the reason we don't find the need for a proportioning valve when deleting the ABS is because the master cylinder has a proportioning valve built into it on our cars.
Really? Do you have a link to this info? I would like to read it.

With that info I am going to reverse the lines at the master cylinder and then if the rears lock up I can use the proportioning valve I have in line on the rears and adjust from there.
Are you saying that if you swap lines and the rears start locking first you will then run an in-line valve? And disable the stock one? I'm not sure I follow.

I don't know if this is due to using the Strange brakes with a brake booster or the fact that I have duel rear calipers
I'm going to go with having really skinny front tires and really fat rears. Brakes aren't what stops you, the tires are.

and they don't get the fluid in time.
I was under the impression that there is no "timing" in a break system. The fluid column moves at the same speed no matter how long/short it is.
 

travelers

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You could also put two pressure gages on the master cylinder to see what the pressure is for each side is. You may need to put an adjustable proportioning valve in too. You can also put the pressure gages at the calipers to read what they are too.
 

05stroker

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Really? Do you have a link to this info? I would like to read it.

I will dig it up tomorrow.


Are you saying that if you swap lines and the rears start locking first you will then run an in-line valve? And disable the stock one? I'm not sure I follow.

If the pressure goes to the rears firt and is stronger then I can control how much via the proportioning valve I have in line already.


I'm going to go with having really skinny front tires and really fat rears. Brakes aren't what stops you, the tires are.

It did it with my 20" tires as well.


I was under the impression that there is no "timing" in a break system. The fluid column moves at the same speed no matter how long/short it is.

Yes unless the fronts hit first and you now have two calipers in the rear that require more fluid then the single front. There are threads on Yellow Bullet about the dual calipers needing the master cylinder swap as well.

Replies in quote. Sorry.


You could also put two pressure gages on the master cylinder to see what the pressure is for each side is. You may need to put an adjustable proportioning valve in too. You can also put the pressure gages at the calipers to read what they are too.

I have a valve in line on the rears now, I just never had the need to use it.
 
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psfracer

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Now on to my next issue. Most of you know about my custom strange brake setup. Here is the issue, when I get on the brakes medium to hard the fronts lock up. I have researched and found the reason we don't find the need for a proportioning valve when deleting the ABS is because the master cylinder has a proportioning valve built into it on our cars. With that info I am going to reverse the lines at the master cylinder and then if the rears lock up I can use the proportioning valve I have in line on the rears and adjust from there. I don't know if this is due to using the Strange brakes with a brake booster or the fact that I have duel rear calipers and they don't get the fluid in time.

I have an adjustable proportioning valve on my system. But, I also have the race craft master cylinder, not the stock one.
 

strokerjr

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Oh, and I do have to give credit where credit is due. This is how I described the plug find earlier to someone here.

Hell I was sitting in my chair at my wits end and my 16 yr old tells me," hey dad, I know I don't know anything about cars but, my friends truck was popping the other day and sputtering and he changed the plugs and it fixed it. I doubt that is what is wrong with yours but, it helped him". So, I was like what the hell, it is the only thing I have not tried. And what do you know, the lean condition followed the plugs.

Kid might make a car guy sooner then I thought...

Never think just cause im a teenager that i dont know anything. I mean i have been behind you when u build your motors! Im picking up some stuff!
 

D98GT

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Looks like Mason might get a break since my car isn't going to be ready by then it doesn't look. Still looking forward to being there and hanging with you guys.


Brakes are overrated and RPR has a long enough shut down for you
 

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