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05stroker

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Intake popped right loose after I removed the coolant cross over and was able to drive a screwdriver between the head and delete plate to separate.

Now I am more confused then ever. I pulled the motor today and removed the heads. I see two areas on the copper gasket that are suspect due to the dark color. Take a look at these pics and let me know what you guys think. The good news is that the "pits" I saw where oil bubbles. Now where the hell is the oil coming from and why was cylinder #1 only at 115 and all the rest around 170 on the compression test?

I am very confused right now.















 

lito

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Cyl 1 exhaust valve looks oily to me, is "shinnier" than the others.

The leak to a side seen in the second to last photo correspond to #1?
 

05stroker

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Cyl 1 exhaust valve looks oily to me, is "shinnier" than the others.

The leak to a side seen in the second to last photo correspond to #1?

And BTW, for your estimated CR, 170 sounds low, even with the 550s.


They are all oily. I thought the same about the 170 also. I expected 195 or more.

The third from last is #1.
 

05stroker

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Yes, that one, ok.

That is the one I suspect is the exhaust leak I could not find. Still unsure what I am doing for head gaskets sense the cylinder walls are good. I have been doing some reading about guys using the MLS gaskets with copper wire in the grooves instead of stainless steel. Still researching.

As for the oil in ALL the cylinders, I will know more tomorrow.
 

05stroker

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As for the gaskets, I think I will stick with the copper. I think the issue is that I made a couple pulls on the motor before re tourquing the heads and did not back the nuts off as the directions say. I just went over them again. I am also not going to coat the entire gasket this time and just use the paste sealant around the openings where they already have the RTV on the gaskets. Sense all my SS rings are within spec, I feel this was a torqueing issue. Here is the step on there site.

STEP 7 - As with any performance application it is strongly recommended that head bolts/studs be re-torqued. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature without placing any load on the motor. Shut down and allow the motor to cool to ambient temperature. With the engine cold and following the recommended torque sequence, one at a time back each fastener off just enough to relieve the friction set, then re-torque to specified torque value.

If all looks good when I tear down the S/B tomorrow I will have the machine shop do a quick hone and check the heads and seals and reassemble with new rings and new copper head gaskets.
 
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05stroker

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I would also run a straight edge across the heads and block after you have them cleaned up.
I will, sense the heads were decked, I don't think there is an issue there though. I think the failure is due to making a few pulls before retouring the heads and the sealant was compromised.
 

05stroker

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I just ordered some new copper head gaskets and new SS rings. It may be a couple weeks till the head gaskets arrive though. This time I will re torque like I do with adding water. Heat the motor to temp and cool over night then re torque and fill with water. Then make a pull and let cool and re torque again just to be safe. With 12:1c/r and 25 psi, I want to make sure everything is sealed. I am going to reuse the HT1 plugs I have gapped at .028 and test plug gap later after the motor is running fine.
 
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05stroker

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Maybe use vasoline, wax, or a gunsmithing parting agent on one surface next time. You should still have the seal along with removeability.

I am defiantly going to use some Vaseline with all assembles in the future! Haha

I see what you are saying though.
 

05stroker

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I cant figure out where the oil came from. Everything above the combustion chamber is clean. There was oil in all eight cylinders and today I noticed oil draining from my stud holes in the block when I rotated the block on the stand.

Could the oil have been from the heads being loose from not being torqued correctly?

Could I have been pressuring the crankcase enough to push oil past the rings?

The intake is clean so what ever the issue is it was happening all cylinders and not being pushed though the intake system.
 

one eyed willy

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When we yanked my buddies gt500 motor apart, the heads were not torqued correctly. That's the first thing I thought by looking at your pics, his gaskets , heads and even his block was melted between the 2 cylinders. He didn't use lube of oil when putting in his head bolts so they didn't all torque down the same.
 

05stroker

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I went ahead and pulled the rods and pistons just now all the compression rings looked fine but on number 1 and number 6 the oil rings where almost lined up and some of the others where only 1/3 from each other. Now, since I always assemble with the rings on a 50/50 split, this is very odd to me.

Can crankcase pressure allow the rings to rotate?

I also found my twin breather tanks with a ton of water and oil in them. When I drained the oil from the motor it had very little water in it and the watery oil was only in the pan and not on the RA so I figure it got there when I removed my front cover and water pump. I think the water in the tanks is from condensation from all the cold start idleing due to the fueling issues. The oil though is more then I have ever seen in my tanks.

 

05stroker

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Interesting stuff here. Making me scratch my head on my current issue

I'm tired of scratching mine. I need answers. I am going back though the entire motor and if there is another issue get ready for a bonfire.
 

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