To change timing chain or not change it, that is the question

2526Bullitt

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Hey guys, my car is approaching 150k (2008 bullitt) miles and i have a question on the longevity of the timing chains and timing components. I like to keep on top of the wear and tare items but it seems like people replace the timing components only when they fail and not as a preventative maintenance. Should I replace these items? Or should I just put that money towards some Ford racing camshafts? I got some long tube headers and x pipe... I have been meaning to buy camshafts for a long time
 

RocketcarX

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Do the cams and take that time to asses the condition of the engine/timing components.
 

skwerl

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If you're going to swap cams then go ahead and replace the timing chain setup at the same time. Unless you're just throwing the cams in to sell the car.
 

RED09GT

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Save up for the cams, cam bolts, chains, guides, and tensioners.
You have probably lost a bit of performance from wear but probably not worth the effort to pull everything apart until you are ready to do cams as well.
 

2526Bullitt

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I have started to buy some of the components to freshen up the timing components( Ford racing timing belt kit, mashimoto radiator, water pump, delete plates, cams); I was thinking while I have the front cover taken apart, I could possibly get a new Ford racing high volume oil pump (M-6600-F46), should I do that as preventative measure? Moreover, how hard is it to change it? I was thinking of just changing the oil pump and replace the o ring in the pick up tube ( I don't want to drop the oil pan to replace the pick up tube).
 

Brick

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For the $100 that it costs, absolutely do it. Probably the best "peace of mind" thing I have done to my car. It is the same pump out of the 13-14 GT500 and has a much stronger billet steel backplate that is less prone to flexing than the OEM one. Be sure to remove the pressure relief spring from your original pump and put it into the new one to maintain the correct oil pressure for the 4.6L 3V. Torque the plug cap to 30-35 ft/lbs and use blue loctite.

If it were me I would drop the oil pan and clean out the oil pan at those miles, and replace the oil pan gasket. You may end up having to do it anyway if you drop a bolt from the pickup tube. I also think Permatex "Right Stuff" is a lot easier to use than the old ultra black RTV for sealing the timing and valve covers back up.

If you want to do billet pump gears now is the time to do them also, but probably not needed unless you're FI.

Check out these threads...

http://www.s197forum.com/threads/diy-the-ultimate-3v-oil-pump.110929/

http://www.s197forum.com/threads/2013-gt500-oil-pump-and-4-6-3v-comparisons.106434/
 

2526Bullitt

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Is switching out the spring easy? It seems like the cap needs to be removed, use my old spring and cap and transfer that into the new oil pump, that easy?
 

Badd GT

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The Ford m-6600-f46 oil pump is listed by Ford as a replacement pump for a 4.6 thru 5.8 engine and nowhere in their literature/instructions that I could find, does it say anything about swapping your old “spring” into the new pump. Follow the manufacturer instructions and you will be fine.
 

msvela448

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Agreed... Pump is the same, no need to change the pressure relief spring. If you're that deep in the engine go ahead and pony up the money for billet oil pump gears.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Pentalab

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The Ford m-6600-f46 oil pump is listed by Ford as a replacement pump for a 4.6 thru 5.8 engine and nowhere in their literature/instructions that I could find, does it say anything about swapping your old “spring” into the new pump. Follow the manufacturer instructions and you will be fine.

Are you sure about that ? Before and after oil pressure readings would tell the real story. That issue with swapping the spring has been well documented in the past.
Perhaps the spring on the new pump assy is a compromise between the 4.6 and the bigger engs.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Save up your money for the following and install everything in one hit over a weekend, especially if you're going to keep the car until you die (you'd be daft not to):

Performance camshafts
Cam phasers & phaser bolts
Timing chain wedge
Ford Racing cam followers & lash adjusters
Ford Racing timing set & guides
New oil pump
New water pump
New radiator hoses
New replacement gaskets & seals for timing cover and valve covers

At 150k miles, most of the above components will have advanced wear so it'll be good preventative maintenance to keep the engine going reliably for another 150k miles.
 

Badd GT

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Are you sure about that ? Before and after oil pressure readings would tell the real story. That issue with swapping the spring has been well documented in the past.
Perhaps the spring on the new pump assy is a compromise between the 4.6 and the bigger engs.

When I installed mine there was no paperwork included stating anything about swapping the spring and a call to Ford Racing confirmed that it wasn't required. Mines been working fine since installed and my VCT works like it should.
 

Onelildude

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Save up your money for the following and install everything in one hit over a weekend, especially if you're going to keep the car until you die (you'd be daft not to):

Performance camshafts
Cam phasers & phaser bolts
Timing chain wedge
Ford Racing cam followers & lash adjusters
Ford Racing timing set & guides
New oil pump
New water pump
New radiator hoses
New replacement gaskets & seals for timing cover and valve covers

At 150k miles, most of the above components will have advanced wear so it'll be good preventative maintenance to keep the engine going reliably for another 150k miles.

I'm at 130K miles and purchased all of the above to include hot rod cams, so I took it a step further and got some new valve stem seals, and ford performance's lash adjusters and rocker arms... before I dig in the motor maybe i'll just buy some rods and pistons and replace everything so I don't have to take it apart again and i'll be ready for forced induction.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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I wasn't sure if you were making fun of my post or if you were serious. That said, I wouldn't go as far as replacing rods/pistons unless I was 100% committed to adding forced induction in the near future.
For the OP, replacing valve stem oil seals while the valve covers are off wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

2526Bullitt

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Let me look into replacing the valve seals...I have replaced them before on a Honda with a head off but I have never replaced valve seals with the head on the block....I would hate life if I was to drop a valve
 

2526Bullitt

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I'm not going to sell it, I would like to keep it forever....it was a graduation gift to myself back in 2010 and enjoy driving it every day. Moreover, my dad and I have worked on my car ( he loves mustangs too) and I have gone attached to it. Therefore, I'm going to keep it as long as I shall live.
 

eighty6gt

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it's 150k miles the engine is good for 300+ and it wears as a unit.

if the engine fails, replace with known good low mileage engine.

This is a waste of money.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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if the engine fails, replace with known good low mileage engine.

That's always an option but with the passage of time, good low mileage engines are going to become more scarce. At least the OP's original engine will be "numbers matching" and that could be important if the car is going to be a future collectible.
 

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