Code P2020 after Rebuild

[Kev555]

Hi I'm back again just when I thought I was done torturing people on here lol.
Code P2020 is popping up eventually bringing on the CEL, I know from searching on here whats causing it, I just need to know if its something I done to cause it happening on the charge motion delete plates or the motor that activates them? When the manifold was off I disconnected the CMDP motor and all other parts I didn't want to get water into and power washed the whole unit, I then cleaned up all the charge motion delete plates until they were shining. They weren't that dirty to start with, I know the opening and closing of these plates and linkage was a lot more fluid when I had finished cleaning them so where did I go wrong as the manifold was operating perfectly before the engine was stripped. Do the charge motion delete plates need relearned?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

That's a bit of a headscratcher Kev.
I'm not aware that the charge motion control valve (CMCV) actuator needs to go through a relearning process but stranger things have happened.
You could try clearing the DTCs and see if the same one reappears. How well does the engine run?

 

[Juice]

"I know the opening and closing of these plates and linkage was a lot more fluid when I had finished cleaning them"

????

I don't get it. Delete plates don't move as far as I know.

 

[07 Boss]

CMDPs don't have a motor. You shouldn't have anything hooked up to them??? Were they accounted for in the tune? I'm just confused here as to all of a sudden you're getting a code and not before?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I think he still has the original charge motion control valves and merely used the wrong terminology. Therefore he would need the actuator. If it was fine before the engine rebuild, it would seem strange to have suddenly failed now but who knows? That's why I asked how the engine's performing.

 

[Kev555]

"I know the opening and closing of these plates and linkage was a lot more fluid when I had finished cleaning them"

????

I don't get it. Delete plates don't move as far as I know.

My bad i meant the car is still stock sorry the charge motion flaps are still intact the way they left the factory

 

[Kev555]

I think he still has the original charge motion control valves and merely used the wrong terminology. Therefore he would need the actuator. If it was fine before the engine rebuild, it would seem strange to have suddenly failed now but who knows? That's why I asked how the engine's performing.

Engine runs beautifully Dino, absolutely no issues except this other code but i think it was generic as car hadn't done the relearn for fuel trims yet? I'm not sure its running at full power although I cant tell as I dont want to push it yet.
I did clear the two DTC,s three times now. The codes come back as soon as I restart and rev it a few times but the CEL doesn't come on until I do at least 10 miles but thats maybe the way it operates? I have the car up for MOT on Wednesday and dont want it the CEL coming on during the test as thats a fail. I did make sure on friday that nothing was hindering the linkage from moving freely connected to the charge motion plates

 

[Kev555]

combined all in the above post^

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Engine runs beautifully Dino, absolutely no issues except this other code but i think it was generic as car hadn't done the relearn for fuel trims yet? I'm not sure its running at full power although I cant tell as I dont want to push it yet.

View attachment 110374

Yup, that's just a generic code you get after the battery's been disconnected and the ECU hasn't completed its adaptive learning cycle.

As for the CMCV code, the one you have is for the driver's side. Evidently the valves are staying closed when they're supposed to but the question is whether they're fully opening on both banks.
Have you taken the engine past 3250rpm to see how it performs higher up when the valves should be fully open?

 

[Kev555]

Yup, that's just a generic code you get after the battery's been disconnected and the ECU hasn't completed its adaptive learning cycle.

As for the CMCV code, the one you have is for the driver's side. Evidently the valves are staying closed when they're supposed to but the question is whether they're fully opening on both banks.
Have you taken the engine past 3250rpm to see how it performs higher up when the valves should be fully open?

Yes i did a couple of times at bursts to 5000rpm, its responsive and smooth but get the feeling its down on torque and power? Its hard to gauge as I haven't driven it in 3 months but its a gut feeling. I should have deleted them and i will over the winter but i just need it running right to enjoy the last month of the summer if possible

 

[Kev555]

Pulled the inlet manifold today to check things out, I could see nothing obvious that was wrong. Linkage to charge motion flaps was moving freely so I popped it back on and noticed when I was tightening it down the temp sender electrical connection plug was pretty close to the CMF linkage. I might have reinstalled the electrical plug on the wrong side of the heater pipes brackets when rebuilding the car again? I bent the bracket back to clear the plug and took the car a run. That has cured the codes for know at least or something else I inadvertently did. One thing did surprise me was the amount of oil residue in the inlet manifold areas only after less than 200 miles. Looks like I need a catch can or two?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I'd highly recommend a catch can on the driver's side. I have one on both sides but the passenger side catch can stays bone dry.

 

[Kev555]

Will do Dino, I will get one on order thanks.

 

[Pentalab]

Catch can goes on the drivers side on a 4.6L
And if u use 100% synthetic, it will not collect very much... 1/4". Use semi synthetic, and it will fill to the top.

 

[Kev555]

Ordered this one as its local, I have black piping in the garage which will look better than that clear piping

 

[Kev555]

Catch can goes on the drivers side on a 4.6L
And if u use 100% synthetic, it will not collect very much... 1/4". Use semi synthetic, and it will fill to the top.

So your saying that fully synthetic will pass through it Pentalab?

 

[brasil]

.. the problem is - to find 100% synthetic oil. Most of the "synthetic oils " are blended, with synthetic oil. Perhaps -but I am not 100% sure. AMSOIL is full synthetic... maybe some MOBIL OILs
..or MOTUL ( some of them )... But I know for sure.. 100% synthetic oil is rare...

 

[Juice]

Mobil 1.
Supertech full synthetic.
My shit gets one or the other.
/end of oil debate. lol

 

[JC SSP]

For the last 20+ years Mobile 1 5W-30 full synthetic. I get it on sale at Wally World or Autozone when I get a coupon.

There might be better but for the cost and convenience it works for me.

 

[Kev555]

Mobil one was the go to oil for years if you wanted the best. Shell helix was another quality oil. I haven't seen any of the two stocked in an auto parts store near me for a lifetime, probably too expensive for most people nowadays. Nearest stockist for Mobil 1 local online is 50 miles away and 5 litres is over £60, I'm using Exol optima ford spec oil 5w 30 ATM at £30 for 5 litres. The ford filters are expensive here so cheaper to buy 2 at a time from Rock Auto and pay the postage to Ireland