BTW. you were speaking / writing about a "Ford Spanish ECU "... my Mustang is a Import from Mexico.. all the windows are marked with the VIN and the word Mexico. So perhaps the car was flased in Mexico, before the car was sold to the first owner ??
"Spanish Oak" is the code name of these 05-10 MY Mustang's ECU (engine control unit) or PCM (power control module)............the actual name is a PowerPC EEC VI 1024k ECU... Now while some of these S197's certainly do exist in the country of Mexico, I can't say if yours was imported from Mexico or elsewhere......
At the end of the day, I have two questions .. How can I identify the tune.. Does the tune
hurt the car / engine...
Outside of using the Ford IDS\PCMTech software, the only other methods I'm aware of is thru using an aftermarket tuning software such as HPTuners or SCT (the 1st popular aftermarket tuning suite software to tune Fords.........) as these were developed to access the OEM ECU's OS's\tune calibrations\internal firmware (to an extent.......not fully........these ECU's have as many as 16,000-18,000 lines of code programmed into them...). Try to see if the PO's still have the tuner that was used to flash tunes to the car (odds most likely will be a SCT handheld device.......).
As for whether hurting the car or not..........I can't say concerning the tune calibration in general........but concerning the current cooling fan profile programmed in it laid out from your testing methods, this profile is a BIG contributing factor to the problem of burned BEC's, wiring, connectors, fan relays, fan motors & potential engine overheating as a result.....
especially if run w\ the stock GT radiator & fan due to grossly inadequate cooling capacity aggravated by retaining the OEM 195*F thermostat along w\ it........thus the fan will run continuously at hi speed settings (meaning at full current draw......engine operating temps thru OEM rads\fans could regularly exceed the 198*F setting.......especially if run w\ HVAC off, HVAC on is your best setting to keep on so fan at least starts running immediately in low speed continuously until this can be reprogrammed......to try to limit the amount of time the system runs continuously in hi fan speed mode......Ford designed this system for optimum thermal engine efficiency to be around 212*F avg operating temps.....but not drop below 195*F......to meet CAFE stds for MPG & emissions but also efficient power output as well)......especially if ECU was tuned for higher performance......against ram air at speed that WILL cause the fan to struggle to turn--airflow will try to reverse fan rotation--causing the fan's electrical system to eventually overload the capacity of the wiring, connectors, relays, etc from very high electrical resistance AND reverse current flow (back flow if preferred......) generated from the DC fan motor running when it should be freewheeling w\ no power applied (thus no reverse flow generation of DC current into system due to open relays breaking continuity......).....in addition of RESTRICTING the total airflow thru the radiator (running fan is SLOWER than the same fan in free spin thus creates higher airflow restriction thru the fan shroud at hiway speeds.....) thus causing the engine to potentially overheat even faster than it would have otherwise (mostly if running the car at high speeds under high loads but depending on conditions can even cause this at lower engine RPM's if the engine loads are high enough.....). IMHO, this is not an IF scenario, but a WHEN scenario........the rest depends on what\how you deal w\ it.......thus kinda like playing Russian roulette.........w\ your car. This system uses 40A J-case slow burn fuses.......which in most instances will not reach their blow point before the wiring, connectors, relays will start to break down & start burning, melting stuff.............so keep a close eye on all this until rectified.
This particular cooling fan settings profile, IMHO, was intended to be used in conjunction w\ the usage of the LARGEST CAPACITY radiator\cooling fan that could be fitted AND a 160*F-170*F thermostat to go w\ it..............package deal strictly for competition road course racing purposes (FYI......this cooling fan profile looks to be the "defacto" profile for the '08 Ford factory FR500S S197 race car...........I have in hand 3 separate copies of this FR500S race car's tune calibration from 3 different cars\ECUs in which this exact cooling fan profile exists in all 3 of them......) that I believe somebody miscalculated could be used safely in stock modified\boosted 3V ECU's using the 05-10 S197 OEM GT stock 1-row cored radiator\fan\195*F thermostat combo w\o issue to "improve" cooling performance due to it being created by Ford & used in a Spanish Oak ECU OS w\o any thought of the REST of this race car's cooling packaging since the base car used was a stripped down production line '08 Shelby GT........most notably the radiator & fan ('08 Ford GT500......larger 2-cored rad & larger fan shroud w\ relief exhaust flaps but OEM GT500 rad looks exactly like a stock OEM GT 1-row core radiator.......in looks only.....) w\ a 160*F-170*F thermostat installed (most likely candidates to match to this profile since it gives a 18*F to 28*F cushion from when it opens to flow vs the low fan speed disable setting of 188*F thus a chance for this profile to work as programmed.....and since competitive road course racing is done at higher RPM's\engine loads\vehicle speeds for extended time periods under mostly CL part throttle conditions......not under OL PE for WOT operations (read high heat generation & heat soak here.......thus the normal racing operating temp area would be somewhere between 180*F thru 194*F.....engine was a sealed, OEM factory production line 4.6L V8 per Miller Cup Challenge race homologation rules w\ all other parts used had to be off the production line as well, thus the usage of certain GT500 OEM parts & OEM Bullitt parts......), this type of fan cooling profile usage makes the most sense--but IMHO not for any semblance of daily driving street duties on stock cooling equipped NA 3V GT's........especially using A\C or heat under HVAC (compressor operations exerting extra engine load thus heat generation.........which the race car didn't have) or when using FI (also the race car wasn't equipped with either..............).
IMHO, a popular "factory" cooling "mod" that a LOT of tuners still apply (my prior tuner at the time also used this very same "FR500S" cooling fan profile w\ my car until I saw it myself then gave him a copy of my revised cooling fan profile based off the OEM cooling fan profile to put in my car's ECU to eliminate this potential BEC, wiring, relay burning issue some 5 yrs ago now.........) but not well thought out\thought thru from an actual application standpoint in regular production line equipped GT S197's..............
I'm sure that some will most certainly disagree w\ my assessment since this profile is still getting used as is by tuners who have been doing this far longer than I.......................but still doesn't make it "right".........
Can it work............IMHO, yes when properly set up w\ the proper sized supporting components for the operating conditions it was originally conceived for..............
Hope you get all resolved to your satisfaction.........
