How did you drain it? Is there a way to drain it without taking it off the engine? I've been wanting to do mine.
What have you done to your mustang today?
- Thread starter *JZ*
- Start date
How did you drain it? Is there a way to drain it without taking it off the engine? I've been wanting to do mine.
Yes, there's a large drain plug on the bottom, it took a 5/16" Allen wrench to get it off.
I used a ziplock bag to drain into. The drain plug and fill plug can be seen in the pic below, sitting on the blower:
maroonandwhite
Junior Member
Got the 18 year old window tint removed and fresh 15% installed. It took the shop a day and a half but they were able to save all of my rear defroster lines. I’m impressed.
Bedouin
Junior Member
This new Wilwood bbk is working even better than I’d hoped, & the Cragar extended tip lug nuts allowed for addtl. 1/8” rear spacer plate clearance needed.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Put her up in the air today to check out underneath health...........been a little past 1 yr since the last time I had her on stands\ramps.........all checked out good but found 1 of my exhaust hangers had broken off since (had been recently noticing a random, weird, sudden & out of place KS voltage ramp would show up on datalogs from time to time......mostly on B1--the side I found the broken exhaust hanger.....didn't affect anything.....just looked weird......broke from constant exhaust heat cycling\vibration over time.....) from its crossmember mounting bracket, so I pulled it off the midpipe to stop it from rattling against the crossmember. Already have a set of SS clamp-on exhaust hangers to replace these so I'll plan on doing this work in near future (I know these aren't really necessary, but I want them.............) ........most likely after I get my 2 G-Sport\GESI GenII Advanced #24531 Hi Flow 500-850 HP LEV II\LEV III 400 cell EPA-cert cats installed.
While I had her up, I also replaced the fuel filter (had initially replaced this in 1-2018 shortly after I had bought her, thus filter had been in service for 8 yrs......), 8 yr old filter showed to be clean when back flushed thus really didn't need to be changed out but did it anyway. While removing the plastic cover to access the filter, ended up twisting off both studs due to rust--even after using WD-40 & slowly trying to work the nuts back & forth, so after filter changeout & passing leak test I got out my trusty die grinder & cut the 2 stubs off flush to underbody then center marked & drilled 2 holes to install 2 M6 rivnuts in their place & replaced the broken studs w\ 2 M6 x 20mm bolts w\ anti-seize on them to arrest\slow any future thread rusting (had driven car a couple of times datalogging during winter 2022\2023 right after snow clearing up a certain hill in my datalog route that had gotten salted but not fully dried.......most likely where these 2 studs got corroded.....the other 2 original M6 x 20mm cover bolts came right out w\ clean threads......screwed into unibody channel thus were shielded from the salt splash\spray).
Put used fuel filter back in box after allowing it to completely dry out to have on hand as a future spare filter........but from my observations it'll be a LONG time before this will need to be done again................that is, if I can manage to always use stations that have high premium fuel turnover thus clean fuel in clean fuel storage tanks.
So far, so good..............
Will run a datalog soon just to capture the data for records to then compare to previous data to see if I can spot anything notably changed\changing since this filter changeout.
Also noted that both rear tire's tread wear has reached the wear bars thus will need to get replaced shortly (mostly from making a LOT of 2,500-6,000+ RPM 1\4 mi WOT hits while datalogging after a tune reflash........the 1-2 & 2-3 shifts are where the rear tires will momentarily break traction on the initial post shift full WOT hit.......1-2 shift is by far the hardest on them........they've been on the car since 4-2019, started self-tuning in 3-2022 but started really getting after it after I got my OBDII Relocation Harness installed in 12-2022 to facilitate datalogging while driving thus the start of datalogging WOT hits.
Gonna stick w\ the trusty Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 series all-weather (DWS = dry, wet, snow) hybrid performance compound tires (fronts are approx 1 1\2 yrs old--replaced due to abnormal inner shoulder tire wear from worn inner tie rods & wheel hub bearings thus only need rear tires........).
While I had her up, I also replaced the fuel filter (had initially replaced this in 1-2018 shortly after I had bought her, thus filter had been in service for 8 yrs......), 8 yr old filter showed to be clean when back flushed thus really didn't need to be changed out but did it anyway. While removing the plastic cover to access the filter, ended up twisting off both studs due to rust--even after using WD-40 & slowly trying to work the nuts back & forth, so after filter changeout & passing leak test I got out my trusty die grinder & cut the 2 stubs off flush to underbody then center marked & drilled 2 holes to install 2 M6 rivnuts in their place & replaced the broken studs w\ 2 M6 x 20mm bolts w\ anti-seize on them to arrest\slow any future thread rusting (had driven car a couple of times datalogging during winter 2022\2023 right after snow clearing up a certain hill in my datalog route that had gotten salted but not fully dried.......most likely where these 2 studs got corroded.....the other 2 original M6 x 20mm cover bolts came right out w\ clean threads......screwed into unibody channel thus were shielded from the salt splash\spray).
Put used fuel filter back in box after allowing it to completely dry out to have on hand as a future spare filter........but from my observations it'll be a LONG time before this will need to be done again................that is, if I can manage to always use stations that have high premium fuel turnover thus clean fuel in clean fuel storage tanks.
So far, so good..............
Will run a datalog soon just to capture the data for records to then compare to previous data to see if I can spot anything notably changed\changing since this filter changeout.
Also noted that both rear tire's tread wear has reached the wear bars thus will need to get replaced shortly (mostly from making a LOT of 2,500-6,000+ RPM 1\4 mi WOT hits while datalogging after a tune reflash........the 1-2 & 2-3 shifts are where the rear tires will momentarily break traction on the initial post shift full WOT hit.......1-2 shift is by far the hardest on them........they've been on the car since 4-2019, started self-tuning in 3-2022 but started really getting after it after I got my OBDII Relocation Harness installed in 12-2022 to facilitate datalogging while driving thus the start of datalogging WOT hits.
Gonna stick w\ the trusty Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 series all-weather (DWS = dry, wet, snow) hybrid performance compound tires (fronts are approx 1 1\2 yrs old--replaced due to abnormal inner shoulder tire wear from worn inner tie rods & wheel hub bearings thus only need rear tires........).
maroonandwhite
Junior Member
Part 1 of afternoon work. Got all 8 plugs out with no breakage. Had about 80k miles on them. Used the hot engine, impact gun method.
GriffX
Senior Member
They are not the plugs for a 4.6. They look like the F150 5.4 type?
maroonandwhite
Junior Member
I unfortunately have the older style 2 piece head even though it’s a 2008 model. From what I understand, they share the same style plug with the f150.
GriffX
Senior Member
Yes, but the F150 has hotter plugs and the porcelain part is more visible than on the 4.6 plugs. (When I remember correctly)
maroonandwhite
Junior Member
I dunno. they have PZK14F stamped on them. Looks to be the same as SP546. I put SP546X back in there.
maroonandwhite
Junior Member
Interesting for sure. I’ll grab a measurement from the old plugs tomorrow just for science.
I also replaced the front sway bar links and bushing this afternoon.
I removed the rear but realized I ordered wrong. I have the 20mm bar and not 22mm which apparently Moog doesn’t make parts for anymore. I’m gonna run without the rear for a few days just to see what the fuss is about.
GriffX
Senior Member
graybeard
Member
To keep the plugs ftom seizing in the cyl. head, would it be worth it to R&R the plugs every 20k miles or so? (clean the plugs and put a small amount of anti-seze on the threads)
GriffX
Senior Member
Definitely, a bit of anti seize at the metal tip where the carbon gets stuck. The threads should be not an issue. Or maybe once a year just take them out and clean. That's what I do now (after I left them more than 10 years in and needed 2 days to get them out).
maroonandwhite
Junior Member
Sorry just realizing I missed typed yesterday. I put in the SP547X. Not the SP546X. I do agree though. Definitely a shorter sleeve on the ones I pulled out. They seemed to run just fine though.
Yeah definitely some nickel anti seize on the sleeve, probably not the threads or you can risk over-torqing them.
I've gone as long as 40k before changing mine, but you definitely won't hurt anything by doing it sooner--other than your wallet, that is.
I've also put in E3 spark plugs because they're one piece, not because of any claimed gains (there weren't any, the car ran fine though)
I've gone as long as 40k before changing mine, but you definitely won't hurt anything by doing it sooner--other than your wallet, that is.
I've also put in E3 spark plugs because they're one piece, not because of any claimed gains (there weren't any, the car ran fine though)
GriffX
Senior Member
When you look at the porcelain color, yours are white and the other used one are brown. I would change them to the desired type. But, also don't know how critical that is. I'm not a spark plug augur
graybeard
Member
What have I done to the lime GT this first day of spring?
Washed and vacuumed it. It's the first cleaning since purchased two months ago.
(concerning the purchase of this Mustang, I have NO buyer's remorse. It is a good car.)
Yesterday, the codes were accessed: No codes, no check engine light.
It does have three red flashing diagnostic I/M monitors:
O2S, HTR, & CAT
159 miles on it since last checked. The P0133 & P0155 codes are gone.
I figure driving it another 100 - 150 miles may clear I/M's.
The car is running well, so the tune will stay as it is.
Washed and vacuumed it. It's the first cleaning since purchased two months ago.
(concerning the purchase of this Mustang, I have NO buyer's remorse. It is a good car.)
Yesterday, the codes were accessed: No codes, no check engine light.
It does have three red flashing diagnostic I/M monitors:
O2S, HTR, & CAT
159 miles on it since last checked. The P0133 & P0155 codes are gone.
I figure driving it another 100 - 150 miles may clear I/M's.
The car is running well, so the tune will stay as it is.
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