What have you done to your mustang today?

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I have ground out and rewelded two separate spots that began leaking about six months after I installed a Mishimoto radiator. I found pinholes in the welds, probably from gas bubbles. A PITA to repair.
I would not recommend this product to a friend!
Well, unfortunately this info came too late and it’s already in! It does have a warranty so I would utilize that if needed but the radiator is leak free at time of installation. I had one in a Civic that I modified many years ago and it was fine while I owned the car (3 years after I put a swap into it) which is why I went back to them for this swap.

Unfortunately, someone is bound to get a bad one at some point. I had 2 OEM Ford coil packs fail right out of the box so it happens.
 

JC SSP

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I have heard more good than bad regarding the Mishimoto radiators. Very common upgrade on the Mazda Miatas.

You can pressure test it and see if you have any leaks but watching the temp gauge is always going to be your best option.
 

GlassTop09

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Exactly! I couldn't find a definitive answer to the pressure holding capacity of the OEM connection. I found as much evidence for as I did against. Most guys are removing the pcv system and venting to atmos. I don't like the smell of crankcase vapors in my cabin air, so I figured I would try it. Of course, it may be leaking a little. No real way to tell, as far as I can see. But it's definitely not enough to cause any negative effects. I wonder if it would just blow off. I did find, during my research, someone replaced the IM fitting with a positive connection. The IM will probably fail with repeated high boost levels at some point.

Btw, I've only hit 19 psi once, and that was not intentional. I had been playing with the e-Boost and set my upper limit high. You don't enter actual boost numbers, just a percentage of 100 in the context of available boost pressure. (Which is limited to 3 times the WG spring) So, I was working on quicker spooling, (which worked) but in the process raised my high limit.
Hey MrBhp,

Thought I'd pass this on & let you know that you aren't the only one that still uses them OEM IM PCV\EVAP line connectors w\ centri\turbo FI............I was watching a YouTube video recently of a guy's Paxton centri setup & saw that this guy also used the same OEM PCV & EVAP line connectors @ the OEM IM along w\ the check valve installed in the PCV line....just as you've done w\ your turbo setup..........so you're definitely on to something my friend & I'll definitely be considering using them on a potential future centri FI install........

FYI, I also got to looking at the OEM IM PCV connector male section sizing & noted that this looks to be the same size & design as the heater crossover piping (3\4" ID.....) thus those Dorman 800-419HP latching metal connectors (3\4"ID x 5/8"ID straight connector....) might work here as well (OEM cooling systems are pressure rated up to 21 psi max, thus they should also easily handle boost pressures in this range as well--even the plastic ones)........been tempted to pick 1 up just to test it to see if it will work. The EVAP connector male section sizing looks to be 1\2" ID........been looking to see if a metal latching connector was made for something similar like for the heater hoses but haven't found 1 yet.........still on the hunt.
Was also looking at some replacement plastic EFI fuel line connectors to use here as well (these are rated for EFI service......thus fairly high-pressure ratings between 43 psi-100 psi........these can fit where the EVAP line connects to as the male section sizing looks to be 1\2"ID & same design as used on the OEM IM...).

If I verify any of this stuff I've posted about, I'll pass it along to you as well for your consideration.
 

graybeard

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This week.......

After 216 miles of driving, filled tank with 12 gals. of 93 octane. Average mpg mostly in-town driving: 18 mpg.

**********
Bought a Turtle Wax 4-part kit for cleaning the lenses to try it out on my ex's Altima. It worked satisfactorily.Looks much better now.

I had some Lens Clarifying Compound left over, so It was put to use on the 2005 GT, which has lenses that are glazed by some type of chemical (not ordinary oxidation). The Spray Lube and the sanding pads were used in an attempt to remove or lessen the glazed areas.
Did not work.

There will now be a complete set of lenses (driving lights, also) in the future. I plan on ordering from RockAuto.

Included in this post: Before & After photos of the Nissan and the '05-Mus lenses.

02-20260605_Lt After_ 0028bb.jpg

01-20260605_Lt Before_001bb.jpg

02-20260606_154554Afterbb.jpg

0520260606_154835afterbb.jpg

01-20260606_140956bb.jpg
 
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MrBhp

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This week.......

After 216 miles of driving, filled tank with 12 gals. of 93 octane. Average mpg mostly in-town driving: 18 mpg.

**********
Bought a Turtle Wax 4-part kit for cleaning the lenses to try it out on my ex's Altima. It worked satisfactorily.Looks much better now.

I had some Lens Clarifying Compound left over, so It was put to use on the 2005 GT, which has lenses that are glazed by some type of chemical (not ordinary oxidation). The Spray Lube and the sanding pads were used in an attempt to remove or lessen the glazed areas.
Did not work.

There will now be a complete set of lenses (driving lights, also) in the future. I plan on ordering from RockAuto.

Included in this post: Before & After photos of the Nissan and the '05-Mus lenses.

View attachment 116628

View attachment 116629

View attachment 116630

View attachment 116631

View attachment 116632
I got some great lights from @86GT351. But him up.
 

Blue03Cobra

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Lol, It's a 1982 so right in that era. Just slightly older than me, but was my dad's so had it around since 1st grade. Great bike to ride, V4 powerband is fat from 3500 all the way to 10k RPM and really easy handling
Rode a '79 KZ650(B) for awhile, back in the 90s (graduated H.S. in 1983),

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but got this for a steal, during Covid. Brand new 2019 Z900RS, one of three still in the showroom in July 2020...

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Couldn't resist the retro styling, complete with all the modern niceties like fuel injection, ABS, stability control, etc. Added a throttle lock, since no cruise and a few odds and ends like handlebar end caps and frame/exhaust sliders. Otherwise stock and will run 11s, without breaking a sweat. Add a tune and look out. My KZ was a high 13 sec. bike, LOL.
 

Samos3

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Rode a '79 KZ650(B) for awhile, back in the 90s (graduated H.S. in 1983),

View attachment 116648

but got this for a steal, during Covid. Brand new 2019 Z900RS, one of three still in the showroom in July 2020...

View attachment 116647


Couldn't resist the retro styling, complete with all the modern niceties like fuel injection, ABS, stability control, etc. Added a throttle lock, since no cruise and a few odds and ends like handlebar end caps and frame/exhaust sliders. Otherwise stock and will run 11s, without breaking a sweat. Add a tune and look out. My KZ was a high 13 sec. bike, LOL.
A friend of mine had a nice 79-80 Z1R1000 in the 90s. Great bike. Fast and had a mean sound missing from the modern bikes.
 

86GT351

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I know it's not the correct forum but it was talked about last week. HYad my Carpal Tunnel procedure Friday. Was at the facility at 7:30 and home by 10:00. I am amazed at the relief I have experienced. Back to work and typing already. Slight discomfort at the incision but that's it.
 

GriffX

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Bought a Turtle Wax 4-part kit for cleaning the lenses to try it out on my ex's Altima. It worked satisfactorily.Looks much better now.
Just did it on my ol Mercedes, totally easy, hand sanding 600-800-1200-1500-2000 and then normal polishing with my Rupes (Bad quality, Italien, I do not recommend) and Menzenra compound, polish. 1h per side.
I think the Maguiar headlight UV protection spray is a good compromise despite you have to coat it once a year. If you clear coat directly from 2000 grid you fill the sanding marks with clear coat and you cannot get it as clear as polishing in an optical way. Without any UV protection it will not last long, so maybe the Maguiar spray is a good choice?
 
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Blue03Cobra

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A friend of mine had a nice 79-80 Z1R1000 in the 90s. Great bike. Fast and had a mean sound missing from the modern bikes.
My 2019 sounds as retro as they get. It's the same engine from the Z900 sportbike (and actually 948cc) but tuned for low-mid range torque and a very different exhaust. It sounds very much like my KZ, which had an aftermarket 4-1 header. The 70s-80s UJM lives today in the RS, for sure.
 

GlassTop09

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Guilty as charged. My issue was the defrost "vent" had cracked, but only enough to rattle...annoyingly. i actually used hemostats to remove all the fins and the metal one (using vct) perfectly covered the, now gaping, opening. About as good as I could have imagined.
Same area that my dash started cracking at.............was in good shape when I bought the car, but after approx 5 yrs of not picking up on the fact that the sun was directly beaming in thru the windshield during the afternoon\evening time frame while car was parked in driveway thus was too slow to pick up a windshield sunscreen dash protector (got 1 in the car now.......after the fact....), the dash started cracking right at the dash vent corners 1st (only got to approx 1"-2" out into dash proper) then the fins started cracking 1 by 1. At this time is when I bought my CoverCraft custom dash cover & covered it after applying Super Glue to the cracked pieces to stop any rattling.

May get this piece coming & finish all this now..............I'm assuming the "vct" is interpreted to be velcro tape?
 

Samos3

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My 2019 sounds as retro as they get. It's the same engine from the Z900 sportbike (and actually 948cc) but tuned for low-mid range torque and a very different exhaust. It sounds very much like my KZ, which had an aftermarket 4-1 header. The 70s-80s UJM lives today in the RS, for sure.
I love the sound of the old Kawasaki inline fours. A 4 into one header and pull the baffles out.
I had an apartment in the late 80s that was on a one way tree lined street. All the buildings were three story, brick 6 family's. 2 blocks down the street was a place called World Cycle. A small little shop that catered to the Japanese and British bikes. Every Saturday morning I would wake up to the sound of the Royal Crowns/Crown Royals (whatever the reverse is of the booze. They were a black motorcycle club that gathered there every week, or so it seemed). rumbling down my street on KZs, GSs, and a few Hondas. All late 70s early 80s. Every one of them had been tricked out.
All that exhaust and downshift music echoing off the buildings.
Always reminded me of Toecutters gang riding into the small town in Mad Max!
 

Blue03Cobra

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Same area that my dash started cracking at.............was in good shape when I bought the car, but after approx 5 yrs of not picking up on the fact that the sun was directly beaming in thru the windshield during the afternoon\evening time frame while car was parked in driveway thus was too slow to pick up a windshield sunscreen dash protector (got 1 in the car now.......after the fact....), the dash started cracking right at the dash vent corners 1st (only got to approx 1"-2" out into dash proper) then the fins started cracking 1 by 1. At this time is when I bought my CoverCraft custom dash cover & covered it after applying Super Glue to the cracked pieces to stop any rattling.

May get this piece coming & finish all this now..............I'm assuming the "vct" is interpreted to be velcro tape?
Sorry, RTV. Dyslexics of the world, "untie"!

What they used in the video was the heavy black stuff.
 

GlassTop09

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@GlassTop09 Thanks bro! You made me wonder why I didn't just slip a hose over that nipple on the IM. Would have been a lot cleaner.
No problem........:beer:

As for the direct application of the hose to the IM nipple(s), that would suffice.........but I myself am a big fan of the quick connect\positive locking type of connector thus I was looking at\for other types of connectors that would provide the same design application but also provide increased pressure holding capacity.

Bad habit of my civil\petroleum engineering mindset\aptitude.......once I see\figure out how a part\system is\was designed, I always try to see\envision an improvement to it then look for and if warranted\able, try to redesign\build it myself if I can't find where someone else has already done so...........engineering is always pushing the boundaries of what is possible...........automotive engineering is always also using similarity in design concepts as well to address various situations......is what keeps the overall costs down industry-wide. Certain parts that will work on a Ford will also work on a GM or Dodge & vice versa so I don't overlook them for remedies either............no need to always try to reinvent the wheel itself so to speak, but you COULD endeavor to always try to make it better than it already is..........some may call this nitpicking, I call it progress........

Never would've thought those OEM plastic PCV & EVAP hose quick connectors could hold the boost pressures that you & others are demonstrating they can hold...........now I've witnessed\I know better.

Just had a thought remembering you posted you may have issues w\ the PCV check valves failing under boost...........have you looked at using a UPR 5\8" inline metal check valve? They're rated for 125 psi service for use in high boost pressure service & are serviceable. I provided a picture of 1 below for your consideration.........bought it direct off UPR's web site.

I bought 1 of these for use in my car's PCV return line.......not specifically for the check valve part (but knew it could be used w\ a centri\turbo FI application if warranted........) but to use as a secondary adjustable inline PCV airflow metering orifice (has a 1\8" plate orifice installed inside of it.......doesn't interfere w\ the inner 1 way sliding valve's operation thus the check valve is still fully operational if warranted.....) to specifically & intentionally redirect a small portion of the pre-TB MAF PCV airflow drawn thru the engine crankcase system back into IM post-TB to be redrawn back thru my FP 62mm TB's butterfly blades to help it to better control engine idle\off idle routines thru ECU's IAC control w\o negatively affecting the PCV system operation (part of the potential issue I've noted w\ these engines that most folks don't understand when a TB >55mm is used in tandem w\ the current PCV system design.........an adjustable inline PCV metering orifice is a remedy to this--the Ford-designed inner DS B2 valve cover PCV spring loaded orifice slider plug will auto adjust to this downstream external metering orifice to not overly restrict this system's total airflow thruput thus remains viable in its original operational design, but will allow redirecting enough of it back thru the TB to achieve the intent desired........my car's ECU IAC can control engine idle\off idle transitions thru my FRPP 62mm TB w\ this PCV metering setup installed just as good or better than the OEM 55mm TB can w\o it........no transitional dips during decel back to idle (the TB over closing\stumbling at return to idle that a lot of folks report having once been tuned.......), no transitional delays in either direction (the excessive idle\off idle TB hunting as well......), no IPC Wheel TQ errors incurred whatsoever in ETC operations while taking full advantage of FP's pre blade internal TB porting work to improve instant throttle accel\decel response........while in the process also helps to further slowdown the drawn PCV airflow velocity thru engine crankcase\DS B2 valve cover helping more of the misted oil droplets entrained in PCV airflow to drop out inside the DS B2 valve cover's inner baffle prior exiting....also further increasing the amount of misted oil droplets that got missed thru the DS valve cover's baffle to also drop out into my Evil Energy catch can as well (PCV metering orifice is mounted downstream of catch can between it & IM.........) during high IM vacuum intervals, thus a win-win scenario & has been recorded\is proven to work as advertised (been in continuous service for at least 5-6 yrs now........installed prior start of my tuning days thus ran this setup w\ a BBK #1763 62mm TB prior this FRPP 62mm TB......).

Had posted about all this in another thread I started back in the day at the time I came up w\ this.

Most don't realize the OEM TB size Ford used was to also work in tandem w\ this PCV system's current design\intent to retain sufficient ECU IAC control thus smooth idle routines........when designing this FRPP 62mm TB, Ford knew that they were at the ragged edge of this PCV system's design limitations....as currently designed, thus the sensitivity to these potential issues concerning smooth engine idle\off idle control........this FRPP 62mm TB--like the FRPP IM that was designed along w\ it--wasn't originally intended for normal street usage but strictly racing usages where smooth idle control routines weren't a priority......

Just giving you a sample of me seeing\identifying potential design issues that most is\are overlooking, then designing\implementing a working remedy for it that I couldn't find someone else doing\had done prior........as I typed in para #2.

IMG_0110.JPG

IMG_0113.JPG
 

MrBhp

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@glass Cool. I never thought of using the hole in the throttle blade truck on an EFI system. We use to drill throttle blades on our carburetors to improve idle quality. But these were very high winding engines that lived between 6500 and 9000 rpm. The holes would help with loading and fouling at idle.
 

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