Thinking of a KB in the future...

05silverGT

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Right now, what my car has done to it is pypes shorties, pypes orx, mangapack CB, and a C&L intake.

I have plans in the future to do a 2.6 KB. Those are expensive, so I was thinking for now to do all the supporting mods minus the blower and drive the car like that until I have the money for a blower.

What I was thinking is...blower cams, 3.73s, motion plate deletes, LT's, and a tune.

Would the car run with the blower cams ok even without the blower?

Thanks Guys!
 

Shades

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Why not ditch the blower cams and save the money towards the actual blower..
 

TexasBlownV8

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Do both of the above: save of the cams and go for a built engine.
You'll be able to crank more out of your KB setup.

Or, run it with a larger pulley/less boost on the stock internals.


Otherwise, doing all your supporting mods ahead of time is the way to do it. Get those done, work out any issues, then when you're ready, slap on the blower!!!

You can drive around with blower cams w/o having a blower; I did it for 4 months.
 

DDTCM

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Listen too this guy ^^ he knows what he is talking about.....you can thank me later Mike lol!
 

05silverGT

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Do both of the above: save of the cams and go for a built engine.
You'll be able to crank more out of your KB setup.

Or, run it with a larger pulley/less boost on the stock internals.


Otherwise, doing all your supporting mods ahead of time is the way to do it. Get those done, work out any issues, then when you're ready, slap on the blower!!!

You can drive around with blower cams w/o having a blower; I did it for 4 months.

Ya that's what I was thinking. I read on a sticky on SVTPerformance that a stock 3v motor handled up to 565 rwhp before going to the moon. The reason I want to do the supporting mods first is so I can atleast get my car going a little bit better for now. When I did the blower I would do a safe tune. Maybe around 500 wheel
 

Riptide

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Even after the built engine depending on how far you push it you'll end up wanting a transmission at that point. And then after the blower, built motor, and transmission go in you might be wondering why you didn't just start with a shelby instead. ;)
 

Hatchman

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Right now, what my car has done to it is pypes shorties, pypes orx, mangapack CB, and a C&L intake.

I have plans in the future to do a 2.6 KB. Those are expensive, so I was thinking for now to do all the supporting mods minus the blower and drive the car like that until I have the money for a blower.

What I was thinking is...blower cams, 3.73s, motion plate deletes, LT's, and a tune.

Would the car run with the blower cams ok even without the blower?

Thanks Guys!

Not sure what you have as other mods, but take this for what it's worth:

First thing to go for me after the KB 2.6 install:
Stock clutch slipped, had to swap out clutch/flywheel/tob
Stock drive shaft started hitting under side of car, had to go one piece and adjustable LCA's to set pinion
rear end sagged on launch, needed relocation brackets
stock tires too skinny, needed bigger/wider rims and much better tires
brakes couldn't handle the extra speed, needed new brake pads, and I got new stainless lines and Stoptech rotors as well.

Do not get the charge motion delete plates, when you put on the kit, you get rid of them anyway.
I would skip the blower cams, there are other things you will need that will keep you safer (tires and brakes) and if your stock clutch is slipping with the KB, the extra HP the cams will give you will only make the slipping worse.

If you have an intake, you should already have a tune. If not, get that first, since you are probably running lean, which is bad.

But really, a KB kit with a 8psi pulley will still get you 472 at the wheel on a cold night (mine does), and a 10psi pulley will definitely get you there. With a good tune, you should be able to stay safe and happy at 450rwhp until you can save up and go built and then you'll need more fuel, better tranny, etc.

The KB kit comes with a KB Boost a pump. Mine has been working fine, but some have saved up for better options, GT500 pumps, etc.

If you get the KB "tuner" kit, you will have to supply your own tuner, injectors and MAF. I went this route since I already had and XCAL II and I got the injectors cheap off of ebay and the 90mm Lightning MAF cheap off of a Ford parts website.

3.73's would be nice, but you don't really "need" them. I still have 3.55's and they are fine, still loose all kind of traction without drag radials.

Long tubes, just not sure they are worth the $1000 plus/minus investment. Put that money towards the KB because once you have it on, long tubes or not, you're going to be at the limit of the stock block and if you want to go higher, you're going to have to go built.
 

Scord

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Ya that's what I was thinking. I read on a sticky on SVTPerformance that a stock 3v motor handled up to 565 rwhp before going to the moon. The reason I want to do the supporting mods first is so I can atleast get my car going a little bit better for now. When I did the blower I would do a safe tune. Maybe around 500 wheel

....

500rwhp on a stock 4.6L 3v is not safe... Nothing is safe... don't anyone tell you something is.

Now they’re ways to make a setup safe'ER then others.... and that’s with the tune... There are countless threads upon this discussion so I won’t go into detail, but 10 PSI mid 400rwhp seems to be the thin-red-line for our cars.

----

Supporting mods for a 2.6L KB would be things like suspension, tires, fuel pump.... that blower is capable of bringing the 4.6L to its limits and beyond without cams, long tubes and anything else... All other mods are optional...
 

meanmike

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For what its worth I just had LTs and a detroit rocker blower cam added and 10psi KB 2.6 and am making 485whp in an auto.

anyone know why my belt comes off everytime I do a donut?
 

05silverGT

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Not sure what you have as other mods, but take this for what it's worth:

First thing to go for me after the KB 2.6 install:
Stock clutch slipped, had to swap out clutch/flywheel/tob
Stock drive shaft started hitting under side of car, had to go one piece and adjustable LCA's to set pinion
rear end sagged on launch, needed relocation brackets
stock tires too skinny, needed bigger/wider rims and much better tires
brakes couldn't handle the extra speed, needed new brake pads, and I got new stainless lines and Stoptech rotors as well.

Do not get the charge motion delete plates, when you put on the kit, you get rid of them anyway.
I would skip the blower cams, there are other things you will need that will keep you safer (tires and brakes) and if your stock clutch is slipping with the KB, the extra HP the cams will give you will only make the slipping worse.

If you have an intake, you should already have a tune. If not, get that first, since you are probably running lean, which is bad.

But really, a KB kit with a 8psi pulley will still get you 472 at the wheel on a cold night (mine does), and a 10psi pulley will definitely get you there. With a good tune, you should be able to stay safe and happy at 450rwhp until you can save up and go built and then you'll need more fuel, better tranny, etc.

The KB kit comes with a KB Boost a pump. Mine has been working fine, but some have saved up for better options, GT500 pumps, etc.

If you get the KB "tuner" kit, you will have to supply your own tuner, injectors and MAF. I went this route since I already had and XCAL II and I got the injectors cheap off of ebay and the 90mm Lightning MAF cheap off of a Ford parts website.

3.73's would be nice, but you don't really "need" them. I still have 3.55's and they are fine, still loose all kind of traction without drag radials.

Long tubes, just not sure they are worth the $1000 plus/minus investment. Put that money towards the KB because once you have it on, long tubes or not, you're going to be at the limit of the stock block and if you want to go higher, you're going to have to go built.

As far as suspension, my car has an eibach prokit. My car also has drilled and slotted rotors all the way around and performance pads (idk what brand) on them. The car stops good. I wana get rid of the 3.31s regardless. And when I bought my car (at a dealer and it was certified) I didn't have any knowledge of a aftermarket clutch put in, but my buddy has a 05 mustang gt and he is positive he has a stock clutch and it feels nothing like mine. If you see my mods in my sig, the only i did to this car since i bought it was an orx and tinted tailights. The first owner did everything else.
 

usafimj

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Take blower cams ($700-1000 w/ valvetrain), 3.73s ($500 w/ install), motion plate deletes ($100-300), LT's ($1K), and tune ($300-500) fund. Which is around $2500 and thats if you install most of the parts yourself. If not then more. Put that towards SD Big Bore or Big Bore Stroker build.
 

Riptide

Will work for Mustang.
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I hope you're a decent mechanic if you'll be doing a self install of this thing. I for one am not a good mechanic and installing mine has been a bloody fucking nightmare so far. If I hadn't got a good deal on it used I would've got the whipple instead.
 

retfr8flyr

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As far as suspension, my car has an eibach prokit. My car also has drilled and slotted rotors all the way around and performance pads (idk what brand) on them. The car stops good. I wana get rid of the 3.31s regardless. And when I bought my car (at a dealer and it was certified) I didn't have any knowledge of a aftermarket clutch put in, but my buddy has a 05 mustang gt and he is positive he has a stock clutch and it feels nothing like mine. If you see my mods in my sig, the only i did to this car since i bought it was an orx and tinted tailights. The first owner did everything else.
Before you start anything you really need to sit down and decide what your long term goals are. How much HP are you planning to make? This will make you other decisions for you. If you want to stay around 500 rwhp then you don't need cams, L/T headers and you current clutch and trans should hold up fairly well. If you are planning on more hp you will need a built shortblock for starters then you can plan on cams, L/T's, new clutch setup and a better trans. If I were making the choices I would contact SD and put a deposit on one of the big bore blocks he is going to order. You can get the money together and have him build you a good big bore shortblock, install it and sell you stock shortblock to recover some of the cost. This will give you a great base to work with whichever direction you decide to go and you will enjoy the extra power from the big motor while you build up your money again for your long term goals.

With the new 5.0 engine out I don't think FRPP is going to be doing much with the 3v in the future and parts may start getting hard to come by. That is why I would get the big bore block while they are still available and before the cost goes up.


Earl
 

cycosarge

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I installed the Kenne Bell 2.6L Stage 2 by myself in my garage in 3 days, it is a very easy install... it can take a while to get everything done, expecially if you are working alone like I did, but it is still an easy install. You don't need delete plates, you remove the entire intake when you put on the KB. I run 3.55 gears and still have an awefully hard time keeping traction. The KB stage 2 kit will get you 500 rwhp right off the bat without any other engine mods, so don't waste your money of that is all you are looking for, istead spend the money on a good cluth and flywheel as well as a good driveshaft and suspension parts, trust me, you will need those more.
 

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